Hardware Components used on the Switch (mostly the motherboard and main console)

WadsRUs

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Yep. A nice hot chisel tip iron will own that ground plane. Chemwik braid also. Add plenty of leaded solder to it as well prior to braiding it out

Out of many years of habit I tend to use Soldamop braid (is Chemwik even better?), but for sucking the solder out of the USB C port's GND plane holes I use my Pace desoldering station with a good tip which can take the thermal load - so far so good. :)

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

You can use a camera with good zoom (I have one that has 15x zoom)
Are you using a hot air gun or just a thin-tipped soldering iron? Trying to solder those tiny resistors/capacitors with a soldering iron sounds like it'd be more trouble than it's worth.

I'm still experimenting - I prefer hot air but I also try with my assorted tips to see which works best for me.

Nice idea about the camera, speaking of which, and as I can't afford a decent Amscope, I was looking at this -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Andonsta...-Microscope-1080-f-PCB-Repair-UK/292645273497

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Yep. A nice hot chisel tip iron will own that ground plane. Chemwik braid also. Add plenty of leaded solder to it as well prior to braiding it out

BTW, did you have any luck documenting the caps and resistors around the M92T36 chip? :)
 

mattytrog

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Out of many years of habit I tend to use Soldamop braid (is Chemwik even better?), but for sucking the solder out of the USB C port's GND plane holes I use my Pace desoldering station with a good tip which can take the thermal load - so far so good. :)
All I ever use nowadays is chemwik.

Expensive but it is the best. I've got numerous different soldering irons etc. Hakko, Antex, Weller. I catch myself using my Antex mostly! I just love those 0.12mm copper tips. Don't last two minutes so I buy packets of them at a time!
 
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WadsRUs

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I wish I could figure out why a Switch I have here gives no video (only audio) when docked (it's of course fine as a handheld). It's definitely NOT the USB C connector (or the soldering) at fault and I'm not yet familiar enough with the board to figure out why.

Could be that USB chip I mentioned earlier or the filters as suggested by npavlovici. I'll poke around some more.
 
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The Real Jdbye

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Out of many years of habit I tend to use Soldamop braid (is Chemwik even better?), but for sucking the solder out of the USB C port's GND plane holes I use my Pace desoldering station with a good tip which can take the thermal load - so far so good. :)

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



I'm still experimenting - I prefer hot air but I also try with my assorted tips to see which works best for me.

Nice idea about the camera, speaking of which, and as I can't afford a decent Amscope, I was looking at this -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Andonsta...-Microscope-1080-f-PCB-Repair-UK/292645273497

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



BTW, did you have any luck documenting the caps and resistors around the M92T36 chip? :)
I don't know much about microscopes, but EEVBlog did a video listing everything you need to set up an EE workshop on a tight budget but still having "good enough" tools, and one of the items listed was a microscope, maybe you should check out his video. I think it was this one:
It might be a bit basic, depends on what your needs are.
 
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mattytrog

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I wish I could figure out why a Switch I have here gives no video (only audio) when docked (it's of course fine as a handheld). It's definitely NOT the USB C connector (or the soldering) at fault and I'm not yet familiar enough with the board to figure out why.

Could be that USB chip I mentioned earlier or the filters as suggested by npavlovici. I'll poke around some more.
It's got to be a bad connection. If it was the complete interface faulty, id have thought you wouldn't get any sound either. The multiplexer / matrix switch handles all that switching.

But it's "handshaking" or init'ing to the TV... Transferring audio digitally. That sound is being decoded to analogue... Doesn't seem like an interface problem to me. It has to be a connection. Check you haven't got any flux corroding around the ferrites on the matrix switch. One I did, there was no picture, solved it by cleaning / reflowing around the ferrites.

They were full of flux. Not the fairy stuff either. The hardcore stuff.
 
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WadsRUs

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This looks like the connector type used for the FFC that's responsible for the LCD backlight and the separate FFC that handles the volume and power buttons (same connector type for each) -

https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/molex-llc/5034800400/WM1386CT-ND/2356640

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Molex/503480-0400?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7i6cT6ogu42UM2hUx5mbPgKiLgf6DX1Q=

As usual, Ive not bought or tried any of these (yet), I'm just curious what's used so if you buy any and find out they are the wrong type then don't blame me - this is all just a guide pending confirmation.
 
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WadsRUs

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Nice one, thanks!! :) If you happen to have any other part numbers for Switch components please list them here. :)

Not yet had a chance to have another look at the issue with no HDMI output, still hoping to find the time in the next few days.
 
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WadsRUs

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mattytrog

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WadsRUs

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Possibly.

However the ferrite won't be connected to GND. Footprint looks the same.

Make sure there are actually 2 coils in there. Some with 4 or 6 only have the one coil with all connected. Like the murata ones on rs components for example

Interesting you should say that because I've recently removed the filters from two Switch motherboards and neither had GND connections for the ferrite - they only had the four contact points like the filter that I linked to.

I thought it was a bit strange as there is a very obvious GND rail going underneath the filters.
 

mattytrog

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Interesting you should say that because I've recently removed the filters from two Switch motherboards and neither had GND connections for the ferrite - they only had the four contact points like the filter that I linked to.

I thought it was a bit strange as there is a very obvious GND rail going underneath the filters.
Looks like you should be good to go. Can`t find any EXC24CS anywhere.
 
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