Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[wiiando]

So if you're using method 3, the wiring needs to be changed and what files are needed for it to be compatible with sdfiles https://github.com/tumGER/SDFilesSwitch/releases or is that not possible to use the updater app from that pack now? as the file names have changed?

 

[noX1609]

Looks interesting and not too hard.

So just to be sure this is the way to do it:

- Solder the Points as in the picture, with a cable going to point 10, so 5 wires total
- Put the Firmware on the trinket
- Put the sx os .bin as start.bin into the 0 Folder on SD
- Put the other files of SX OS in the main folder
- Press Power and hold Vol+ to boot to SX OS or just Power to start the stock fw

Are these steps correct?
Do i have to press the reset button on the trinket at any time in booting? (this was needed in a solution in the past so i thought i better ask).

Thanks in advice for all of your help!!

 

[mattytrog]

Looks interesting and not too hard.

So just to be sure this is the way to do it:

- Solder the Points as in the picture, with a cable going to point 10, so 5 wires total
- Put the Firmware on the trinket
- Put the sx os .bin as start.bin into the 0 Folder on SD
- Put the other files of SX OS in the main folder
- Press Power and hold Vol+ to boot to SX OS or just Power to start the stock fw

Are these steps correct?
Do i have to press the reset button on the trinket at any time in booting? (this was needed in a solution in the past so i thought i better ask).

Thanks in advice for all of your help!!

Not needed.

Just boot normally

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

So if you're using method 3, the wiring needs to be changed and what files are needed for it to be compatible with sdfiles https://github.com/tumGER/SDFilesSwitch/releases or is that not possible to use the updater app from that pack now? as the file names have changed?

Filenames haven't changed. Just use the Hekate version in OP.

 

[noX1609]

Not needed.

Just boot normally

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


Filenames haven't changed. Just use the Hekate version in OP.

Ok and the steps are correct as listed in my post?

 

[wiiando]

Ok I'm still not having any joy with this, my current setup is using the sdfiles linked above, I've tried using Trinket M0 / Rebug SWITCHMEVersion 1 is HERE

Switch just boots normally with vol+ and power, checked my wiring, the trinket flashes etc but that's about it, am i doing something incorrect?

NVM, my pc was the error point, copied the uf2 again, all works

ALL HAIL @mattytrog

 

[mattytrog]

Ok and the steps are correct as listed in my post?

Yes

 

[noX1609]

Yes

Great thanks Think i will then use this new method to solder everything to the console, taking 3,3v from the eMMC Board and RCM Strap Pin 10 directly from the Joycon Rail because it‘s a lot easier not to damage the board or bridge anything (again^^)

 

[ROEKENS]

Hi Mattytrog
I use Version 1 with Trinket M0
Wires iInstall done as described on picture for M0. no issue on soldering. (I guess! but no issue detected)

Anyway i can boot in normal mode or go in RCM pressing + and Power but then get black screen; i don t have the auto run of Custom firmware.
I use your 0 folder set on root of SD card. In root i put SX OS boot.dat file and licence. Also get some folders ( siwtch, nintendo, backup,...) an some roms as XCI files.
Like classical use "again"!
If i use TegraRcmGUI then i could inject payload and use SX OS ( licence installed no issue on it. boot.dat file is on root with boot.dat file (SX OS)
Auto RCM is OFF. ( checked)
On 0 folder payload.bin have been renamed as start.bin and except 0.NX fiel all other have been removed ( i had boot.dat here too without more success))

So it sreally strange!
I tried to reflash M0 several times without more success and still have no auto run of CFW and stay il RCM state without any possibility until use Tegra RCM GUI.
I can t identified with issue is on that. ( script issue? flash issue? cabling look lile OK but?

When Tegra run SX it s OK then i still press+ power to get option menu available

Any idea to fix it?

Regards
Laurent

 

[mattytrog]

Hi Mattytrog
I use Version 1 with Trinket M0
Wires iInstall done as described on picture for M0. no issue on soldering. (I guess! but no issue detected)

Anyway i can boot in normal mode or go in RCM pressing + and Power but then get black screen; i don t have the auto run of Custom firmware.
I use your 0 folder set on root of SD card. In root i put SX OS boot.dat file and licence. Also get some folders ( siwtch, nintendo, backup,...) an some roms as XCI files.
Like classical use "again"!
If i use TegraRcmGUI then i could inject payload and use SX OS ( licence installed no issue on it. boot.dat file is on root with boot.dat file (SX OS)
Auto RCM is OFF. ( checked)
On 0 folder payload.bin have been renamed as start.bin and except 0.NX fiel all other have been removed ( i had boot.dat here too without more success))

So it sreally strange!
I tried to reflash M0 several times without more success and still have no auto run of CFW and stay il RCM state without any possibility until use Tegra RCM GUI.
I can t identified with issue is on that. ( script issue? flash issue? cabling look lile OK but?

When Tegra run SX it s OK then i still press+ power to get option menu available

Any idea to fix it?

Regards
Laurent

Soldering somewhere.
Check your ground point
Check your USB straps too.

Definitely a connection / soldering problem

 

[IAmBeave]

Sorry if this is offtopic for this thread, but mattytrog seems very knowledgeable on the guts of the switch, so I thought i'd ask here. I plugged my switch in this morning as the battery was getting low and all of a sudden it doesn't charge anymore, not in the dock, from a battery pack or from a wall charger. It also doesn't output anything in the dock, just a flashing green light. Handheld is fine, it boots, plays games etc, just no chargey.... Just wondering what my options are, as I can't send it back to nintendo, as I put a switchme in it.......

Thanks in advance.

p.s. I will make a thread and delete this post if this an't the right place to ask..........

 

[mattytrog]

Sorry if this is offtopic for this thread, but mattytrog seems very knowledgeable on the guts of the switch, so I thought i'd ask here. I plugged my switch in this morning as the battery was getting low and all of a sudden it doesn't charge anymore, not in the dock, from a battery pack or from a wall charger. It also doesn't output anything in the dock, just a flashing green light. Handheld is fine, it boots, plays games etc, just no chargey.... Just wondering what my options are, as I can't send it back to nintendo, as I put a switchme in it.......

Thanks in advance.

p.s. I will make a thread and delete this post if this an't the right place to ask..........

Can you post a photo of your install please? Flashing light in the dock is almost certainly a bridged component.

 

[IAmBeave]

Can you post a photo of your install please? Flashing light in the dock is almost certainly a bridged component.

I certainly will, I will disassemble it later. Strange, as it has worked fine for weeks.

 

[mattytrog]

I certainly will, I will disassemble it later. Strange, as it has worked fine for weeks.

Could be a damaged piece of insulation or a wire moved. What dock are you using?

 

[IAmBeave]

Could be a damaged piece of insulation or a wire moved. What dock are you using?

The official nintendo dock.

 

[mattytrog]

Take back off and get some pictures took

Where in UK are you?

 

[IAmBeave]

I'm from Devon.

Link to photo of install

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GV2qqQoXP113GUDGMkmT5if_HZv_P5TZ

I noticed some residue across the pins of the usb port on the board, i cleaned it away a little before taking the picture, but you can still make it out in the photo.

 

[mattytrog]

I'm from Devon.

Link to photo of install

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GV2qqQoXP113GUDGMkmT5if_HZv_P5TZ

I noticed some residue across the pins of the usb port on the board, i cleaned it away a little before taking the picture, but you can still make it out in the photo.

Nothing immediately obvious. Apart from the SwitchMe chip USB solder points are messy. Try reflowing those.

Clean up the back of that USB port too. Could be a splash of solder in some flux touching or something.

Can you take a picture of the M92T36? Might have to lift up the Kapton

 

[IAmBeave]

 

[Deleted-172301]

If I have all points soldered minus the Vol+ strap, will autoRCM work?

 

[mattytrog]

If I have all points soldered minus the Vol+ strap, will autoRCM work?

Yes. There will be no conflicts between autoRCM at all. At least logically there shouldn`t be.