My switch Volume - keeps turning down when I press Volume +

[l7777]

I will inspect properly. I believe and hope it's not the connector on the board. This Switch is new, I used it a little and only opened it to install the HWFLY Chip. Thanks for the suggestions.

Thinking a bit further, I suppose it is theoretically possible that something on the switch mainboard was damaged when the HWFLY install was done but I'm not familiar with the power/volume button circuits. Inspect the areas where you were soldering for missing components or solder bridges. IMO something with the connector/ribbon is more likely since you have to disconnect and manipulate it to remove the board and do the install.

 

[randy_w]

Also did you place the rubber piece that sits over the buttons properly, and you can feel vol - button clicking? Take the back cover off and see if volume button works?

 

[SkolGBA]

Thinking a bit further, I suppose it is theoretically possible that something on the switch mainboard was damaged when the HWFLY install was done but I'm not familiar with the power/volume button circuits. Inspect the areas where you were soldering for missing components or solder bridges. IMO something with the connector/ribbon is more likely since you have to disconnect and manipulate it to remove the board and do the install.

Well I hope it's not, because after installing the HWFLY chip the buttons were normal, this just happened when I decided to open it again because I was thinking I hadn't connected the fan correctly. I inspected the fan and when I closed it this happened.

 

[SkolGBA]

So just updating everyone on the situation, I inspected the flex ribbon power cable, cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol, the problem continued, I solved it then by inspecting the Switch motherboard, I took the motherboard out and cleaned everything with isopropyl alcohol, looked the welds and they are all good, I looked at the board to see if I could identify anything missing and I didn't miss anything. And I'm thinking that the problem is not the flex cable, but something on the board that I couldn't identify, for me it's all there.
The only thing wrong with my solder is that when I soldered the 3.3V wire to the capacitor, the solder ended up sticking and joining the other capacitor. As you can see in the photo.

I wasn't worried about it because I had seen a video on the ModzvilleUSA channel! where he joins the two dots and he said no problem.

Do you think this could cause any problems? I tried to separate it but I couldn't.

I also looked at the flat cable connector with a microscope to see if there was anything making a jumper, and by the photo it is clean.

Well, I think I'll leave it like this, the only inconvenience is that every time I load ATMOSPHÈRE I'll have to click on Launch with the Volume + key pressed and when I want to decrease or increase the volume I'll have to do it through the Joy-con home button.

If anyone else here has any more tips or know what is happening and can help me I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

 

[binkinator]

So just updating everyone on the situation, I inspected the flex ribbon power cable, cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol, the problem continued, I solved it then by inspecting the Switch motherboard, I took the motherboard out and cleaned everything with isopropyl alcohol, looked the welds and they are all good, I looked at the board to see if I could identify anything missing and I didn't miss anything. And I'm thinking that the problem is not the flex cable, but something on the board that I couldn't identify, for me it's all there.
The only thing wrong with my solder is that when I soldered the 3.3V wire to the capacitor, the solder ended up sticking and joining the other capacitor. As you can see in the photo.

View attachment 307315View attachment 307317View attachment 307318

I wasn't worried about it because I had seen a video on the ModzvilleUSA channel! where he joins the two dots and he said no problem.

View attachment 307319

Do you think this could cause any problems? I tried to separate it but I couldn't.

I also looked at the flat cable connector with a microscope to see if there was anything making a jumper, and by the photo it is clean.

View attachment 307320

View attachment 307321

Well, I think I'll leave it like this, the only inconvenience is that every time I load ATMOSPHÈRE I'll have to click on Launch with the Volume + key pressed and when I want to decrease or increase the volume I'll have to do it through the Joy-con home button.

If anyone else here has any more tips or know what is happening and can help me I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

Since you have it open...try booting without the cable plugged in. You can short the connector to start or leave it in just enough to power and then quickly remove it.

If the problem goes away...it's the cable.
If the problem is still there...it's on the mobo.

 

[SkolGBA]

Since you have it open...try booting without the cable plugged in. You can short the connector to start or leave it in just enough to power and then quickly remove it.

If the problem goes away...it's the cable.
If the problem is still there...it's on the mobo.

I already solved it friend thanks

 

[SkolGBA]

Guys, I come here to tell everyone that I managed to solve the volume impediment. I don't know how I even gave up because I had done all the tests until I removed the motherboard from the Switch and cleaned it all with isopropyl alcohol, I had also tested the flat cable and ended up identifying that the obstacle was not there, I also looked with a microscope at the flat cable connector on the motherboard, there could be something there making a jumper. As I hadn't found a solution, I was going to leave it as is because all the other features were perfect, the only obstacle was adjusting the volume through the physical buttons, but I could adjust it through the joy-con home key. So, looking at a photo of the board that I had beaten, I decided to open the Switch again because I was thinking that the Kapton tape was interfering with the contact between the heatpipe and the processor, so I removed the tape and replaced the folder again and when I closed it and went to test the volume was working perfectly.

Before anyone says it was Kapton tape, I want to warn you that it wasn't it, I put it on after cleaning when I tried to fix it the first time.

So far I don't know what could have happened, but I'm very happy and grateful for everything. I want to thank everyone who offered to help me with tips. Thank you all and stay with God.

 

[TanerDelle]

seriously man, mine was perfect this happened after I opened it to check if the fan was well connected I had just installed the HWFLY chip the day before and everything was perfect. But I can fix it! Are you looking to solve the problem?

What was the solition

Post automatically merged: Aug 1, 2023

seriously man, mine was perfect this happened after I opened it to check if the fan was well connected I had just installed the HWFLY chip the day before and everything was perfect. But I can fix it! Are you looking to solve the problem?

What was the solition

 

[hyperlisk]

I had the same problem on one of the OLEDs. I fixed it by using power button board from another OLED and then switching back to original one and now it works properly. No idea how long it will last but at least I know there was a problem with power button board or connector.

 

[lockn]

I solved the “volume keeps going down” issue after installing Picofly (HAC-CPU-21).

In my case, the problem appeared about 1–2 weeks after installation, even though everything was fine at first.
It turned out that flux had seeped under the SoC/SCU area on the back side of the motherboard during soldering.
Over time, the flux absorbed moisture and caused a partial short, making the system think the VOL– button was being pressed continuously.

The fix was simple but careful:
I applied a small amount of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) between the motherboard and the CPU board, letting it flow through the gap to dissolve and flush out the flux residue.
After drying completely, the volume issue disappeared and has not returned.

If your volume starts going down by itself days or weeks after installing Picofly, check for flux residue under the CPU area — it may be causing a moisture-induced short.

I hope this helps someone who’s struggling with the same issue.

 

[l7777]

I solved the “volume keeps going down” issue after installing Picofly (HAC-CPU-21).

In my case, the problem appeared about 1–2 weeks after installation, even though everything was fine at first.
It turned out that flux had seeped under the SoC/SCU area on the back side of the motherboard during soldering.
Over time, the flux absorbed moisture and caused a partial short, making the system think the VOL– button was being pressed continuously.

The fix was simple but careful:
I applied a small amount of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) between the motherboard and the CPU board, letting it flow through the gap to dissolve and flush out the flux residue.
After drying completely, the volume issue disappeared and has not returned.

If your volume starts going down by itself days or weeks after installing Picofly, check for flux residue under the CPU area — it may be causing a moisture-induced short.

I hope this helps someone who’s struggling with the same issue.

Nice work, thanks for posting the solution.