YLOD fix dependability

Discussion in 'PS3 - Console, Accessories and Hardware' started by TommyShelby, Dec 30, 2014.

  1. TommyShelby
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    TommyShelby Newbie

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    So I got a secondhand PS3 earlier this year. The one thing I noticed immediately was that for some games , those that are graphically taxing I assume, the PS3 starts to whine and becomes a full blown whistling kettle as time goes on. For Uncharted, the first 5 minutes, it reaches that stage, for some games, it could take an hour for that to kick in. I decided to mask the noise by putting a fan in front of it. Well, just yesterday, I plugged in the PS3 to try it on a new TV and I was surprised to hear three beeps. A quick Google search said it's the dreaded YLOD. I clicked and clicked, until it opened again. But I think this problem will persist, and since I want to get rid of that whining noise, I started looking into YLOD fixers. Well, I saw quite a few, but I've read from Google that the fix is pretty temporary: some people have theirs break again in a few days, some a few months, rarely a year. I also learned that reballing and reflowing are bad things to do on a PS3. Now I checked further and there seems to be another fix, to replace some components, neck and token I believe, that are supposedly better than rb and rf a PS3.

    Now my question is, what is the best fix for a PS3 slim, and how long should I expect it to work? Is there such a thing as a long lasting YLOD fix? I'm willing to spend a little more if I had assurance that it'll work for a bit more. Heck, the only game I've finished on the PS3 is Uncharted, this can't be it.
     
  2. trumpet-205

    trumpet-205 Embrace the darkness within

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    Reballing is the permanent fix to YLOD. It means removing the chip and solder it back again using fresh ball solder. Reballing cannot be done without special and expensive equipment.

    Reflowing is the one that's bad. It involves using heat gun or oven to heat up the chip (which in turn heat up the ball solder underneath the chip). The idea was to melt it then let it cool off hoping it would reform a good solder connection. Reflowing is no good because it reuses old solder and subject surrounding IC components to unnecessary thermal stress.
     
  3. VashTS

    VashTS Beat it, son

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    Not always true, you can get quite a bit of time out of a reflowed console. Yes, it will happen again - almost guaranteed.

    A cheap heat gun is about $20, some time to learn and patience is worth a lot more than buying another new console or paying for a reball. I'm not a 3-4 hour a clip player, I mainly play for like an hour at best so if I get a machine that I can reflow, I will do it since I will not likely kill it again. I also keep my consoles clean and if needed I can add extra fans to help the dying process slow down a bit.
     
  4. trumpet-205

    trumpet-205 Embrace the darkness within

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    That's the thing with reflowed PS3. Each time you reflow it you'll get another YLOD sooner and sooner. You'll reach the point where reflowing is not working if you repeatedly doing it.

    Heat gun is just as bad as using an over because hot air will spread around the chip and heat up chokes, capacitors, etc. Heat is bad for these components and will shorten their lifespan.

    To be fair, heat gun wasn't even design with reflow in mind. Their use is to remove SMD components excluding BGA soldering.
     
  5. TommyShelby
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    TommyShelby Newbie

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    So you guys mean to say a reball will definitely last longer than a reflow? Well, the ad that said they won't be using reball or reflow on the PS3 says that they'll use new components and use that on your PS3. Will that make it last longer? I can't play on the weekdays but on my free days I can play for 10 hours.
     
  6. cobleman

    cobleman GBAtemp Maniac

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    Stick the REFLOW where the SUN don't shine. If i had a dollar for every one of those that done the same thing again i would be fekin rich. Reball or sell it as parts don't waste your hard earned cash on a piece of crap. First Question I ask 1: HAS IT BEEN OPENED? 2: Is the security seal intact? Second question confirms 1st question. Not sealed been opened before DON'T TOUCH IT unless it was opened to replace laser.
     
  7. TommyShelby
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    TommyShelby Newbie

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    Reball it is then? I don't really know if it has been opened yet. I see it still has a warranty sticker over the warranty text underneath it which seems to be a part of the PS3. I didn't even try to open it to try and look at the fan. What do you suggest I do? There's a ton of PS3 games I'd love to play, don't want to skip right away to the PS4.
     
  8. cobleman

    cobleman GBAtemp Maniac

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    If it has not been opened great get yourself 1 x heatgun 1x no clean flux pen 1 x silver paste. Find a good tute to pull PS3 down circuit board clean CPU AND GPU of all paste. Start with ram chipps 1st (back chips 1st) hold board on 45 degree angle depress n flux pen at top of chips and let it flow under them once all ram chips have flux under them use heatgun on 300 c or 1st setting heat each chip for around 30 seconds useing a circular motion with gun about 10mm away (you can use alumium foil to surround chips to direct heat only to chip and away from other components)once back side has been done let it cool for 20 minutes before turning over to do memory chips on CPU AND GPU SIDE. Now repeat on memory chips and leave again for 20 minutes before continueing with CPU AND GPU. Do the same again but this time heat each chip for 1 to 1 1/2minutes leave it to cool for at least 30 minutes. Apply paste use a credit card or something similar to spread it evenly on both CPU AND GPU put it all back together leave the top off and test to see if it works good luck the first time is always the longest lasting fix like this
     
  9. cobleman

    cobleman GBAtemp Maniac

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    I know what i said earlier but if your going to waste your money might as well do the cheapest fix 1st