why voice record doesnt pick up sound?
- Thread starter lilalex
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Several possibilities as to what is wrong here
The usual is either Windows or the program is not configured for the source you are using. This was not such a problem a few years back but today with everybody and their mother using USB microphones, webcams, 3.5mm red mic ports on the back of the machine and sometimes even virtual microphones then yeah.
Most programs will follow what Windows says is the microphone of choice.
If you go into the audio settings where you might select an output (should be available from the clock track volume if you right click, though if not then control panel has things). Such a thing will also tend to have a little volume indicator which is the secondary thing to check -- microphone volume might well be far lower than ideal for actually hearing anything out of it, or maybe just straight muted (if you have a headset mic/USB mic then do also check there is no inline mute option).
Some programs, usually actual audio editing programs (see something like https://www.audacityteam.org/ ) but somewhat oddly then skype as well, do their own things and have their own audio input selection.
After this then yeah we look at hardware issues, driver issues, program issues and whatever else.
Short version.
Go to the audio panel. Make sure the microphone it has as default/selected is the one you are planning to use.
Make sure its volume is high enough and not muted (nor muted on the hardware itself). Should be a little volume indicator there somewhere.
Make sure the program in its settings does not use another, not all programs will have this feature though as it is extra work and often confuses customers.
The usual is either Windows or the program is not configured for the source you are using. This was not such a problem a few years back but today with everybody and their mother using USB microphones, webcams, 3.5mm red mic ports on the back of the machine and sometimes even virtual microphones then yeah.
Most programs will follow what Windows says is the microphone of choice.
If you go into the audio settings where you might select an output (should be available from the clock track volume if you right click, though if not then control panel has things). Such a thing will also tend to have a little volume indicator which is the secondary thing to check -- microphone volume might well be far lower than ideal for actually hearing anything out of it, or maybe just straight muted (if you have a headset mic/USB mic then do also check there is no inline mute option).
Some programs, usually actual audio editing programs (see something like https://www.audacityteam.org/ ) but somewhat oddly then skype as well, do their own things and have their own audio input selection.
After this then yeah we look at hardware issues, driver issues, program issues and whatever else.
Short version.
Go to the audio panel. Make sure the microphone it has as default/selected is the one you are planning to use.
Make sure its volume is high enough and not muted (nor muted on the hardware itself). Should be a little volume indicator there somewhere.
Make sure the program in its settings does not use another, not all programs will have this feature though as it is extra work and often confuses customers.
If its an inbuilt microphone, thats not a good sign.. 
Just recently picked up my first external mic (a used Electrovoice RE 320), which needs a preamp, but doesnt take phantom power, which also has a low gain 'issue' (well at least needs to be cranked close to 100% on the preamp ), which you could fix with something like this (Tritonaudio Fathead), which uses Phantom power, but limits it for mics that dont usually take phantom power, to get higher gain.
But I'm sure thats not your problem.
--
If you should ever become interested in a good USB mic -
The Elgato Wave 3 has a good sound signature for the price:
https://www.elgato.com/en/wave-3 (although its slightly overpriced, due to its popularity).
The Blue Yeti also still sounds good for the price.
Below that its harder to recommend stuff, so go with whats cheap and available.
Should you ever go with an XLR stye mic the cheapest interfaces (with preamps to make them 'USB mics') are fine (Behringer U-Phoria UMC22, or Focusrite Scarlett Solo).
(At around the 200 USD range, you can also go the route to pay for a mic with good noise rejection (Cardioid characteristic (so unidirectional)), which eliminates the need for room treatment, which is the route I went.)
Arguably the best mic available today for voice work is the Shure SM7B (at 400USD), but it depends on your voice, and what you are looking for.
--
This is only in case you spend any money. So if a cheap headset mic does the trick - then dont.
Modern laptops now sometimes have microphone arrays built in, which have become better at noise isolation - so just for voice, some of them have become pretty good as well. (They also aim for background noise rejection, just computational - and not in the mic itself.)
Nvidia RTX Voice (available for RTX (edit: and GTX) graphiccards - https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/guides/nvidia-rtx-voice-setup-guide/ ) also might allow you to just buy a cheaper table mic, and not worry about background noise - but the oldfashioned way (buying a good cardioid mic, also has something to it.. ).
--
Also - I agree, that installing audacity, and just looking at the dropdown menu for mics/interfaces - is the easiest way to test functionality (once the mic is recognized by your PC).
edit: Honorable mention at a lower price point: RØDE NT-USB Mini at about 100USD, a used Blue Yeti can already be had for about 80 USD.
edit2:
Price table for my personal setup:
Electrovoice RE 320: 170 USD (used on ebay)
Behringer U-Phoria UMC22: 27 USD (found using google, shop around)
Microphone Stand 45 USD ( https://aliexpress.com/item/4000774506428.html (works without blocking any of the vents on the mic, the anti-shock mount is a little strained, because of the weight, but still works - and the stand can balance the mic even at max extension) )
XLR cable: 3 USD ( https://aliexpress.com/item/4000249799082.html )
USB cable: 1 USD ( https://aliexpress.com/item/32769164525.html )
Total cost: 256 USD
No phantom power (! (don't accidentally activate it on the interface!)). With the gain dial at 100% its a little bit too loud at close proximity (you are aiming at about -9 db top limit), but dont dial it back much.. (Use audacity to calibrate volume.)
edit: Klark Teknik Mic Booster CT 1 is a more competitively priced alternative to the Tritonaudio Fathead.
Just recently picked up my first external mic (a used Electrovoice RE 320), which needs a preamp, but doesnt take phantom power, which also has a low gain 'issue' (well at least needs to be cranked close to 100% on the preamp
), which you could fix with something like this (Tritonaudio Fathead), which uses Phantom power, but limits it for mics that dont usually take phantom power, to get higher gain.But I'm sure thats not your problem.
--
If you should ever become interested in a good USB mic -
The Elgato Wave 3 has a good sound signature for the price:
https://www.elgato.com/en/wave-3 (although its slightly overpriced, due to its popularity).
The Blue Yeti also still sounds good for the price.
Below that its harder to recommend stuff, so go with whats cheap and available.
Should you ever go with an XLR stye mic the cheapest interfaces (with preamps to make them 'USB mics') are fine (Behringer U-Phoria UMC22, or Focusrite Scarlett Solo).
(At around the 200 USD range, you can also go the route to pay for a mic with good noise rejection (Cardioid characteristic (so unidirectional)), which eliminates the need for room treatment, which is the route I went.)
Arguably the best mic available today for voice work is the Shure SM7B (at 400USD), but it depends on your voice, and what you are looking for.
--
This is only in case you spend any money. So if a cheap headset mic does the trick - then dont.
Modern laptops now sometimes have microphone arrays built in, which have become better at noise isolation - so just for voice, some of them have become pretty good as well. (They also aim for background noise rejection, just computational - and not in the mic itself.)
Nvidia RTX Voice (available for RTX (edit: and GTX) graphiccards - https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/guides/nvidia-rtx-voice-setup-guide/ ) also might allow you to just buy a cheaper table mic, and not worry about background noise - but the oldfashioned way (buying a good cardioid mic, also has something to it..
).--
Also - I agree, that installing audacity, and just looking at the dropdown menu for mics/interfaces - is the easiest way to test functionality (once the mic is recognized by your PC).
edit: Honorable mention at a lower price point: RØDE NT-USB Mini at about 100USD, a used Blue Yeti can already be had for about 80 USD.
edit2:
Price table for my personal setup:
Electrovoice RE 320: 170 USD (used on ebay)
Behringer U-Phoria UMC22: 27 USD (found using google, shop around)
Microphone Stand 45 USD ( https://aliexpress.com/item/4000774506428.html (works without blocking any of the vents on the mic, the anti-shock mount is a little strained, because of the weight, but still works - and the stand can balance the mic even at max extension) )
XLR cable: 3 USD ( https://aliexpress.com/item/4000249799082.html )
USB cable: 1 USD ( https://aliexpress.com/item/32769164525.html )
Total cost: 256 USD
No phantom power (! (don't accidentally activate it on the interface!)). With the gain dial at 100% its a little bit too loud at close proximity (you are aiming at about -9 db top limit), but dont dial it back much..
(Use audacity to calibrate volume.)edit: Klark Teknik Mic Booster CT 1 is a more competitively priced alternative to the Tritonaudio Fathead.
Last edited by notimp,
Just tested RTX Voice with my setup and its actually pretty great, depending on how you plan to use it.
First, you dont need a RTX graphics card, a Nvidia graphics card is sufficient.
The program lets you set an input and output device and then apply the noise filter to them selectively (turning it off is also possible in the interface). Then in return it shows up as a virtual device in both input and output options - so you can chain it with any app you use.
I have a dynamic mic (RE320), that on the Behringer Interface/Preamp only gets enough gain to use it at close distance - with, gain set to 0.5 in audacity (default). (Actually 0.54, but whos counting... )
If I move the mic a bit further away, so its not in my face all the time, first - I'd have to set gain in audacity to 0.85 of max mic level, and this in combination with the mic being designed for close up use introduces noise into my recordings.
So dont use it that way, right? Enter RTX Voice.
With RTX Voice set to 10 ticks (from the left) noise suppression level, three things happen:
1. All the noise picked up by my mic at about 40cm distance gets eliminated
2. The room characteristic in the recording gets eliminated (which it doesnt at a lower amount than 10 ticks from the left (keyboard right arrow key to set it btw.. )
3. The loudness gets normalized to exactly the line level recommended for recordings. This means, the microphone is far less sensitive to me leaning back - or in fact, any kind of loudness reduction due to distance to the mic.
Voice sounds more arteficial though - not that most people would notice..
As a quality of life improvement (not having to have the mic in your face all the time) this is pretty great. And free.
(Again - please dont ban for double posting - this is a notable addition to the buying guide above. )
edit: Glamshot of my setup;
edit2: Here are my final settings for RTX on: Gain on the Behringer basically at 98% (see image), mic level at 88% set in Audacity (propagates to Windows mic level set), NVidia RTX Voice set to 10 ticks noise suppression from the left. Minimises noise thats still in the recording, while keeping the character of the mic as unaltered as possible.
If you dont want to run RTX voice on Windows login, just disable it in autoruns:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sysinternals
First, you dont need a RTX graphics card, a Nvidia graphics card is sufficient.
The program lets you set an input and output device and then apply the noise filter to them selectively (turning it off is also possible in the interface). Then in return it shows up as a virtual device in both input and output options - so you can chain it with any app you use.
I have a dynamic mic (RE320), that on the Behringer Interface/Preamp only gets enough gain to use it at close distance - with, gain set to 0.5 in audacity (default). (Actually 0.54, but whos counting...
)If I move the mic a bit further away, so its not in my face all the time, first - I'd have to set gain in audacity to 0.85 of max mic level, and this in combination with the mic being designed for close up use introduces noise into my recordings.
So dont use it that way, right? Enter RTX Voice.
With RTX Voice set to 10 ticks (from the left) noise suppression level, three things happen:
1. All the noise picked up by my mic at about 40cm distance gets eliminated
2. The room characteristic in the recording gets eliminated (which it doesnt at a lower amount than 10 ticks from the left (keyboard right arrow key to set it btw..
)3. The loudness gets normalized to exactly the line level recommended for recordings. This means, the microphone is far less sensitive to me leaning back - or in fact, any kind of loudness reduction due to distance to the mic.
Voice sounds more arteficial though - not that most people would notice..
As a quality of life improvement (not having to have the mic in your face all the time) this is pretty great. And free.
(Again - please dont ban for double posting - this is a notable addition to the buying guide above.
)edit: Glamshot of my setup;
edit2: Here are my final settings for RTX on: Gain on the Behringer basically at 98% (see image), mic level at 88% set in Audacity (propagates to Windows mic level set), NVidia RTX Voice set to 10 ticks noise suppression from the left. Minimises noise thats still in the recording, while keeping the character of the mic as unaltered as possible.
If you dont want to run RTX voice on Windows login, just disable it in autoruns:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sysinternals
Last edited by notimp,
What program are you using? Is this a Win10 "Modern" app? There's an option in the Windows settings to enable mic access per-app, that applies to "Modern" apps and some desktop apps. Under Settings->Privacy->Microphone.
ofcourse i have a mic with a camera..........................................Perhaps the first question that should be asked... do you have a mic?
Because we already have half of a (semi-) professional streaming setup guide in here - lets make it a full one...
So whats still missing is lighting and a camera.
For a camera we can go 100 USD cheap - using a Raspberry Pie with a Sony sensor and some real glass:
The parts list you can source from the video, dont forget an sdcard and a microusb cable.
As for software - imho use this:
https://github.com/showmewebcam/showmewebcam
This will default to a 720p30 image, but you can change settings so it outputs 1080p30.
The image (glass/lens) looks really good, better than in the video actually (once you've set iris (open the small metal screw that protrudes 90 degrees from the lens to set the iris, once you are happy with the light input, fasten that screw -) and then set focus.
If you want more freedom to position the camera (which otherwise will film from a slight top down angle (positioning see below)), buy this on aliexpress:
https://aliexpress.com/item/32886902958.html (15 USD)
On the Rasp Pi kit lense, you will have some very slight optic boka in the further distance, and - as a slight negative, of course a slight fisheye character, but with the correct lighting, it looks money.
Which brings us to the correct lighting, and there - sadly, I spent real money again.
Elgato Ring Light 200 USD
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Multi-Layer-Diffusion-Adjustable-10LAC9901/dp/B08GMDQ87T/
Followed by all kinds of warnings.
- This thing is hopelessly overpriced. You can get similar kits on aliexpress (far shorter diameter though) for a fourth of the price.
- This thing is BIG, bigger than you'd think. So it changes the character of the room you are using it in.
On the positive side:
- The light is perfectly diffused, even at the lowest brightness. (Osram LEDs, and maybe the best diffuser for a LED light on the market).
- The bigger diameter makes sure it doesnt create spots or halos. It also ensures, you are not getting "ring eye" - which usually happens when you are recording with ring lights (the ring reflecting in your pupils), because you can set set it a little higher and angle it down, and its still a perfect fill light.
- You can adjust brightness down to a fairly low level (yay - turns out I can use the lowest one, comfortably)
- You can adjust color temperature (default one is 4300k which works well for brightening up a scene the whole day well until the afternoon) (movie whitepoint lighting is 6500k which represents the lighting you'd get at around 12 noon on a white sheet of paper, you can also set that -) if you are recording in a dark room, you should definitely play around with this.
- It is WiFi enabled and has apps for both PC and your smartphone - to adjust its settings - but it also has on device buttons for brightness.
- it has a 1/4" camera mount I'm actually using.
And all of this means, one light - thats also your camera fixture, that mounts off a desk clamp, that you can use without accent lights and that still looks good - but also with accent lights if you want to (I have a window right next to me - with a diffuse shutter).
Also I didnt pay 200 USD for it (more like 160 USD), which helped.
--
Camera, and Mic (through NVidia RTX Voice - which I ended up setting at 30 ticks from the left (mic level set to 88 in audacity - placement 40-60 cm away from the voice source) - which eliminates room, and reduces typing noise (MX blues.. )) then go into OBS (free software), where you can combine the two and create your own virtual "scenes" (shotdesigns), and then a virtual camera (with sound) as an output.
Works great, looks great, sounds great. And I dont have the mic in my face all day.
All in all it is a little expensive though...
- 250 USD for the mic setup
- 100 USD for the camera
- 200 USD for the lighting
Computer needs a NVidia GPU (for my noise filtering method (didnt play with noise filtering in OBS, which also would be an option))
So whats still missing is lighting and a camera.
For a camera we can go 100 USD cheap - using a Raspberry Pie with a Sony sensor and some real glass:
The parts list you can source from the video, dont forget an sdcard and a microusb cable.
As for software - imho use this:
https://github.com/showmewebcam/showmewebcam
This will default to a 720p30 image, but you can change settings so it outputs 1080p30.
The image (glass/lens) looks really good, better than in the video actually (once you've set iris (open the small metal screw that protrudes 90 degrees from the lens to set the iris, once you are happy with the light input, fasten that screw -) and then set focus.
If you want more freedom to position the camera (which otherwise will film from a slight top down angle (positioning see below)), buy this on aliexpress:
https://aliexpress.com/item/32886902958.html (15 USD)
On the Rasp Pi kit lense, you will have some very slight optic boka in the further distance, and - as a slight negative, of course a slight fisheye character, but with the correct lighting, it looks money.
Which brings us to the correct lighting, and there - sadly, I spent real money again.
Elgato Ring Light 200 USD
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Multi-Layer-Diffusion-Adjustable-10LAC9901/dp/B08GMDQ87T/
Followed by all kinds of warnings.
- This thing is hopelessly overpriced. You can get similar kits on aliexpress (far shorter diameter though) for a fourth of the price.
- This thing is BIG, bigger than you'd think. So it changes the character of the room you are using it in.
On the positive side:
- The light is perfectly diffused, even at the lowest brightness. (Osram LEDs, and maybe the best diffuser for a LED light on the market).
- The bigger diameter makes sure it doesnt create spots or halos. It also ensures, you are not getting "ring eye" - which usually happens when you are recording with ring lights (the ring reflecting in your pupils), because you can set set it a little higher and angle it down, and its still a perfect fill light.
- You can adjust brightness down to a fairly low level (yay - turns out I can use the lowest one, comfortably)
- You can adjust color temperature (default one is 4300k which works well for brightening up a scene the whole day well until the afternoon) (movie whitepoint lighting is 6500k which represents the lighting you'd get at around 12 noon on a white sheet of paper, you can also set that -) if you are recording in a dark room, you should definitely play around with this.
- It is WiFi enabled and has apps for both PC and your smartphone - to adjust its settings - but it also has on device buttons for brightness.
- it has a 1/4" camera mount I'm actually using.
And all of this means, one light - thats also your camera fixture, that mounts off a desk clamp, that you can use without accent lights and that still looks good - but also with accent lights if you want to (I have a window right next to me - with a diffuse shutter).
Also I didnt pay 200 USD for it (more like 160 USD), which helped.
--
Camera, and Mic (through NVidia RTX Voice - which I ended up setting at 30 ticks from the left (mic level set to 88 in audacity - placement 40-60 cm away from the voice source) - which eliminates room, and reduces typing noise (MX blues..
)) then go into OBS (free software), where you can combine the two and create your own virtual "scenes" (shotdesigns), and then a virtual camera (with sound) as an output.Works great, looks great, sounds great. And I dont have the mic in my face all day.
All in all it is a little expensive though...
- 250 USD for the mic setup
- 100 USD for the camera
- 200 USD for the lighting
Computer needs a NVidia GPU (for my noise filtering method (didnt play with noise filtering in OBS, which also would be an option))
Last edited by notimp,
Better camera and If I have to be honest, better mic setup, than I've gotten for only a little more money:
Video is in german, but its very well produced, you should have no problem identifying what he is doing at all times.
Camera: Anker C300 (130 USD)
Microphone: Shure MV7 USB (250 USD (only the mic, so you need to factor in the stand as an extra expense. ))
His mic is better than the RE320 - because it doesnt accentuate the 4kHz region (hissing, but depends on your voice), clarity and tonality of spoken content is good on both.
The RE320 if used with a preamp (I actually bought the Klark Teknik Mic Booster CT 1 (works with phantom power) for 25 USD) has an advantage in its secondary recording mode, if used from far away. (I still have it set up so that its outside of the camera frame, and I'm still using RTX voice, with a lower than default 'strength' to reduce roomnoise (which almost doesnt get picked up anyway - just saying.. ) And if the room has an echo-y characteristic. The secondary recording setting on the RE320 ("kickdrum mode"), actually removes "room" in the recordings quite well.
Its the hiss sound pickup I'm not totally happy with. Maybe I'll invest in a foam cover... If I do, I'll edit in my impressions here.
But so far, the shure mic the person in the video above uses is better for voicework, out of the box.
--
edit: Oh and on the camera - basically with the rasp pi and HD camera module above, only 720p is usable in room lighting conditions, because of noise. On the Anker 1080p is usable for the same price. The optics on the Pi are still great for the price - and I'd have no issues still recommending the Pi Cam setup to anyone who doesnt want to spend the extra 30 USD. But lets be honest, you'd want to - for the auto focus feature on the anker alone.
On the Pi cam you have to do some color adjustments in OBS, on the Anker you can do them in the Anker software, or OBS - so, same difference there. Both are good, Anker is better.
Video is in german, but its very well produced, you should have no problem identifying what he is doing at all times.
Camera: Anker C300 (130 USD)
Microphone: Shure MV7 USB (250 USD (only the mic, so you need to factor in the stand as an extra expense.
))His mic is better than the RE320 - because it doesnt accentuate the 4kHz region (hissing, but depends on your voice), clarity and tonality of spoken content is good on both.
The RE320 if used with a preamp (I actually bought the Klark Teknik Mic Booster CT 1 (works with phantom power) for 25 USD) has an advantage in its secondary recording mode, if used from far away. (I still have it set up so that its outside of the camera frame, and I'm still using RTX voice, with a lower than default 'strength' to reduce roomnoise (which almost doesnt get picked up anyway - just saying..
) And if the room has an echo-y characteristic. The secondary recording setting on the RE320 ("kickdrum mode"), actually removes "room" in the recordings quite well.Its the hiss sound pickup I'm not totally happy with.
Maybe I'll invest in a foam cover... If I do, I'll edit in my impressions here.But so far, the shure mic the person in the video above uses is better for voicework, out of the box.
--
edit: Oh and on the camera - basically with the rasp pi and HD camera module above, only 720p is usable in room lighting conditions, because of noise. On the Anker 1080p is usable for the same price. The optics on the Pi are still great for the price - and I'd have no issues still recommending the Pi Cam setup to anyone who doesnt want to spend the extra 30 USD.
But lets be honest, you'd want to - for the auto focus feature on the anker alone.On the Pi cam you have to do some color adjustments in OBS, on the Anker you can do them in the Anker software, or OBS - so, same difference there. Both are good, Anker is better.
Last edited by notimp,
Was able to fix up the Pi Zero W(lan) based webcam (with the HD Camera module and the 6mm Kit lense) to get an actually useable 1080p image, and got a noticeable image improvement. Only downsides currently are no auto focus (but a nice bokeh ) and a little video delay on 1080p30 out.
Basically all I did was to add blur filters to the 1080p output in OBS.
To do so, install this plugin:
Then edit the zoom_blur.shader to contain radius/1200 instead of radius/1000 (lessens the blur), add it to your camera in OBS (filters) and then thats it.
Also have added the Halsu_BlurAlpha_V010.shader (first in row, then the zoom blur shader) from this post https://obsproject.com/forum/threads/filter-request-remove-webcam-film-grain.120361/#post-533620 and could swear that it also adds some refinement to the image, although its so little, I'm not sure.
The output now is way better than it was at 720p and the bokeh looks so much more believable now as well..
edit: Added a short video and audio sample of the final setup (Pi Zero with HD Camera Module, the stock 6mm lens at 1080p30 MJPEG with light blur filter in OBS, re320 going directly through the UMC22, gain on the mixer almost maxed, audio level in audacity (propagates to systemwide) set to 88, then pumped through RTX Voice, with sensitivity set to 30 ticks from the left. And the ringlight on its lowest stock setting (stock color temperature). Color Management for the camera applied as a filter in OBS, as follows (daylight setting):
(showmewebcam version 1.70 (software that makes the pi a webcam), left all settings on default (and did the color correction in OBS) Basically just flashed it on a sdcard and plugged it in. (Dont forget to set aperture and focus on the lens itself. )).
) and a little video delay on 1080p30 out.Basically all I did was to add blur filters to the 1080p output in OBS.
To do so, install this plugin:
Then edit the zoom_blur.shader to contain radius/1200 instead of radius/1000 (lessens the blur), add it to your camera in OBS (filters) and then thats it.
Also have added the Halsu_BlurAlpha_V010.shader (first in row, then the zoom blur shader) from this post https://obsproject.com/forum/threads/filter-request-remove-webcam-film-grain.120361/#post-533620 and could swear that it also adds some refinement to the image, although its so little, I'm not sure.
The output now is way better than it was at 720p and the bokeh looks so much more believable now as well..
edit: Added a short video and audio sample of the final setup (Pi Zero with HD Camera Module, the stock 6mm lens at 1080p30 MJPEG with light blur filter in OBS, re320 going directly through the UMC22, gain on the mixer almost maxed, audio level in audacity (propagates to systemwide) set to 88, then pumped through RTX Voice, with sensitivity set to 30 ticks from the left. And the ringlight on its lowest stock setting (stock color temperature). Color Management for the camera applied as a filter in OBS, as follows (daylight setting):
(showmewebcam version 1.70 (software that makes the pi a webcam), left all settings on default (and did the color correction in OBS) Basically just flashed it on a sdcard and plugged it in. (Dont forget to set aperture and focus on the lens itself.
)).
Last edited by notimp,
How to use an EQ filter for your mic in OBS:
People in the video are - em, yeah youtubers to the elevens, but it shows you how to install a free eq plugin and eq your mic in OBS. If you are also using RTX voice, noise gate and compression are not necessary to set via separate filters.
For the re320, here is the frequency response curve:
http://recordinghacks.com/microphones/Electro-Voice/RE320
So you are basically setting a band eq with three points arround 4000 kHz to compensate. (Use the middle point to set the compensation dB, and then the points left and right to it (move them up and down to see how they change the compensation curve) to shape the curve more to your likeing. There is also a value to change on the main point to shape the curve, but it wont allow you to go as broad as needed for the re320 on its own.)
People in the video are - em, yeah youtubers to the elevens, but it shows you how to install a free eq plugin and eq your mic in OBS. If you are also using RTX voice, noise gate and compression are not necessary to set via separate filters.
For the re320, here is the frequency response curve:
http://recordinghacks.com/microphones/Electro-Voice/RE320
So you are basically setting a band eq with three points arround 4000 kHz to compensate. (Use the middle point to set the compensation dB, and then the points left and right to it (move them up and down to see how they change the compensation curve) to shape the curve more to your likeing. There is also a value to change on the main point to shape the curve, but it wont allow you to go as broad as needed for the re320 on its own.)
Last edited by notimp,
Just FYI: Shure MV7x costs 180 USD (XLR Mic), and sounds very good for the price:
You need a different stand from the one featured in here though (girth wise.. ) Meaning its harder to shockmount it too...
And it sounds better than the MV7 USB - at least over XLR.
You need a different stand from the one featured in here though (girth wise..
) Meaning its harder to shockmount it too...And it sounds better than the MV7 USB - at least over XLR.
Last edited by notimp,
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But other than PC and Amiga ports I don't think Time Soldiers had any game system ports after the Master System -
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Psionic Roshambo:
Ohhh just noticed that myself I bet it makes the Master System port look amazing by comparison lol
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SylverReZ:
If you want a good system to port it to, at least have a good programmer and knowledge.+1 -
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Psionic Roshambo:
I didn't know they made an MSU cart for the Genesis.... I knew about the SNES one and the library for that is rather large but the Genesis one has very few games+1
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