Hardware Weird case of brick

[MiiJack]

A friend of mine attempted to restore someone's New 3DS XL by using deprecated methods (D9, A9LH). I said that he won't be able to (I don't know if he knew about Lazarus, but he did use godmode9), but didn't listen to me. Eventually, he gave up (failed to restore it), and returned it to its owner. I proposed to help the owner weeks later, so I asked what he had done. But there was something that I've never seen, the NAND had a blank region (I suspect that the console was EUR before). Is it possible to restore the 3DS with Lazarus? Or is it dead for good?

Update : Another thing that might help,

 

[Aldoria]

It is weird, but I can't help. Wait for a good answer I'm sure it's not dead if you have backups

 

[TurdPooCharger]

A friend of mine attempted to restore someone's New 3DS XL by using deprecated methods (D9, A9LH). I said that he won't be able to (I don't know if he knew about Lazarus, but he did use godmode9), but didn't listen to me. Eventually, he gave up (failed to restore it), and returned it to its owner. I proposed to help the owner weeks later, so I asked what he had done. But there was something that I've never seen, the NAND had a blank region (I suspect that the console was EUR before). Is it possible to restore the 3DS with Lazarus? Or is it dead for good?View attachment 130853
Update : Another thing that might help,View attachment 130872

You don't happen to have that 3DS NAND .bin file backed up, right?

I'm not sure this is a solution to your problem, but you should give it a shot.
[3ds.hacks.guide] CTRTransfer
Q: What is exactly a CTR Transfer and how does it work?
ctrtransfer: What it is and why it works and why it took so long

 

[vastrolorde]

I actually have the same problem on one of my 2DS, tried CTR transfer already using decrypt9 and godmode9, unit boot when i downgrade to 2.1 using the old method. but stretched image. unfortunately i dont have a original NAND backup. Lets wait if someone have already fixed tis same issue. sorry for my bad english.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

A friend of mine attempted to restore someone's New 3DS XL by using deprecated methods (D9, A9LH). I said that he won't be able to (I don't know if he knew about Lazarus, but he did use godmode9), but didn't listen to me. Eventually, he gave up (failed to restore it), and returned it to its owner. I proposed to help the owner weeks later, so I asked what he had done. But there was something that I've never seen, the NAND had a blank region (I suspect that the console was EUR before). Is it possible to restore the 3DS with Lazarus? Or is it dead for good?View attachment 130853
Update : Another thing that might help,View attachment 130872

Technically it is possible to create a new NAND from scratch (repartitioning the NAND and adding the needed files on non-ctrnand partitions, or even taking a full NAND dump from another console and changing the encryption and replacing tiles where needed), given that you have B9S or ntrboot (or an OTP dump) as that gives us access to the keys we need. But I don't think any tools exist yet to do that. Ctrtransfer simply wouldn't work without a correctly partitioned NAND, which you do not seem to have. Or maybe it is correctly partitioned, but was restored with a NAND backup not from that console, so the encryption is wrong and GM9 is unable to access the data. That might be slightly easier to fix.

 

[MiiJack]

After some digging, the owner attempted to update it from a 2.1 firmware (I don't know if through internet or cartridge, but it was back in the day of a9lh). I have ntrhax at my disposal though, any ideas?

 

[MiiJack]

Update : I bought the device so I could do some testing, but it won't turn on and charge. I've already tested the charger (it works fine), the battery I don't really know (don't know how to use a multimeter yet ), the charging also I don't know, and I tried to look at the internals if there were any cuts. Please help.

 

[Ryccardo]

The NAND is probably fine (note that in your pictures you do have a CID and probably also a S:/nand.bin)
However the partition table is probably broken, as you don't have any of 1: 2: 3: (and probably not even S:/firm0.bin - S:/firm1.bin - S:/agbsave.bin ?)
(If you get it to start), could you post your S:/nand_hdr.bin or its hex view?



For the power issue: just set your multimeter to 5 or higher DC volts (typically this will be "20" on the "V =" mode (with one of the lines of the "=" broken into three)), have the black cable plugged into "COM", the red one into "VΩmA" or whatever only socket has "V" - send pics if unsure, then touch one cable to the pin marked "-" on the battery and the other to the one marked "+", all while reading the number displayed!

A single cell Li-ion battery will typically range between 4,2 V fully charged and 3,2 V "fully" empty (note that a 3DS may not necessarily be able to charge it that much, or run when it's that low); additionally, measuring the voltage on a battery not under load has its pitfalls but is a great first step!

Of course, the easy AND more reliable test is on a known working console or expensive dedicated charger/discharger/profiler...

The console may have blown fuses, though this is unlikely (unless the battery was connected upside down, maybe while it was disassemblied without the case to force it in the right way)

 

[MiiJack]

For the power issue: just set your multimeter to 5 or higher DC volts (typically this will be "20" on the "V =" mode (with one of the lines of the "=" broken into three)), have the black cable plugged into "COM", the red one into "VΩmA" or whatever only socket has "V" - send pics if unsure, then touch one cable to the pin marked "-" on the battery and the other to the one marked "+", all while reading the number displayed!

A single cell Li-ion battery will typically range between 4,2 V fully charged and 3,2 V "fully" empty (note that a 3DS may not necessarily be able to charge it that much, or run when it's that low); additionally, measuring the voltage on a battery not under load has its pitfalls but is a great first step!

I've tested all the pins of the battery (in any combination possible), it gave me a flat out 0 (the multimeter was set like you told, unless I'm just stupid)

The console may have blown fuses, though this is unlikely (unless the battery was connected upside down, maybe while it was disassemblied without the case to force it in the right way)

How do I test the fuses to check if they are blown?

 

[Ryccardo]

I've tested all the pins of the battery (in any combination possible), it gave me a flat out 0 (the multimeter was set like you told, unless I'm just stupid)

The battery was overdischarged for who knows how long, and the 3DS may refuse to charge it for safety reasons (check if on the side of the battery there's a small black sticker hiding 2 small holes, measure the voltage between them - that's a direct connection to the cell that bypasses any safety chip)

Being single-cell, it's probably safely rescueable - but who knows the condition? Buying or borrowing a replacement is probably a better deal!

How do I test the fuses to check if they are blown?

By measuring across them in continuity test mode (looks a bit like this) or, if you don't have it, 200 ohm mode; red cable goes in ohm socket, if that's separate from the volts one

This kind of measurement should not be done with the component to be tested still connected to other things (as said other things may be damaged or, more likely, just screw up the reading) - although a fuse will most likely not have any other device in parallel, as it would reduce or negate its purpose!

 

[MiiJack]

The battery was overdischarged for who knows how long, and the 3DS may refuse to charge it for safety reasons (check if on the side of the battery there's a small black sticker hiding 2 small holes, measure the voltage between them - that's a direct connection to the cell that bypasses any safety chip)

Being single-cell, it's probably safely rescueable - but who knows the condition? Buying or borrowing a replacement is probably a better deal!

I took them out and tested it, it gave me 1V (I think it works?)

By measuring across them in continuity test mode (looks a bit like this) or, if you don't have it, 200 ohm mode; red cable goes in ohm socket, if that's separate from the volts one

This kind of measurement should not be done with the component to be tested still connected to other things (as said other things may be damaged or, more likely, just screw up the reading) - although a fuse will most likely not have any other device in parallel, as it would reduce or negate its purpose!

My multimeter has continuity test, I just don't where exactly I'm supposed to test the fuses.
I've already tested the one present on the board that contains the buttons. It was positive.

 

[Ryccardo]

I took them out and tested it, it gave me 1V (I think it works?)

Overdischarged, if you really want to try reviving that battery, the easiest way is with an adjustable, voltage and current limited power supply: connect it to the hidden pins respecting the polarity, set current and voltage to 0, turn it on, carefully increase them to 3,9 V and 0,6 A (1/3 "C", for a slow but reasonably safe charge also taking into account tolerance of cheap meters), watch the temperature and the meters and turn it off once the current goes below 0,2 A = roughly 1/10 "C" and you should end up with a partially charged but revived battery

- but as said, it's probably smarter to buy a replacement...

I've already tested the one present on the board that contains the buttons. It was positive.

All previous 2/3/DS consoles had one for the charger and one for the battery, though I don't know if N3DSXL continued this tradition

 

[MiiJack]

All previous 2/3/DS consoles had one for the charger and one for the battery, though I don't know if N3DSXL continued this tradition

After looking on the internet, it has one near the charger. It gave me no sign (though I'm still not sure if I did it right...)

Update : After some re-inspection, the fuse on the button board was removed (also that's why I had continuity on it), What should I do about it?. If the other fuse has voltage (when plugged in), is it "working"?

 

[MiiJack]

What can I do if the 2 fuses are missing? (Near the charging port, and near the battery)