v1 can't enter RCM mode

[Tibor]

Hi,

I've been modding the v1 switch for a while now and I have a pretty good understanding on how things work. I have just recently gotten a v1 switch (at least I think it is) with a low serial number. The backplate was changed into a purple translucent so I can't check the HAC version. I was able to check the serial number from the system menu since the sticker has been removed as well. The console is not banned so I don't think anybody tempered with the serial number via incognito either. I don't believe that it is a patched switch either because with TegraRCM I can see that it doesn't even go into RCM mode at all. I have tried multiple RCM jigs (so it's not the jigs). I'm thinking that the right joycon rail has issues? The joycons and everything else works perfectly fine.

Does anybody have any ideas? I've seen a lot of things but this never happened to me.

Thank you

 

[KiiWii]

Maybe dirt or dust in the rail connector? Can you clean it out?

 

[Tibor]

I've just cleaned it with a q-tip. Didn't help. The volume up and power button function perfectly. This is really bizare. It has to be the right joycon rail thats broken, but why does the joycon function.

I've also noticed that it goes into something as when I try to go into rcm mode and push the power button after it doesn't turn on. This means it went somewhere and the console is on as I have to hold the power button to turn it off. Could it be the USB C port? Charging works fine

 

[hippy dave]

I've just cleaned it with a q-tip. Didn't help. The volume up and power button function perfectly. This is really bizare. It has to be the right joycon rail thats broken, but why does the joycon function

One pin of the right rail acts as the trigger switch for RCM, and is not used by the joycons' normal function. It's possible there's damage that's specific enough to break one and not the other. Maybe previous owner was using a paperclip or something similar and unsuitable instead of a real jig that doesn't damage pins.

Replacing the rail is probably your best bet, if the serial number in settings confirms it's unpatched. The rail should be pretty cheap, and I don't think it's too tricky a replacement job, tho I haven't done it.

 

[Tibor]

One pin of the right rail acts as the trigger switch for RCM, and is not used by the joycons' normal function. It's possible there's damage that's specific enough to break one and not the other. Maybe previous owner was using a paperclip or something similar and unsuitable instead of a real jig that doesn't damage pins.

Replacing the rail is probably your best bet, if the serial number in settings confirms it's unpatched. The rail should be pretty cheap, and I don't think it's too tricky a replacement job, tho I haven't done it.

Okay thanks. I just added that when I hold the Vol Up and Power button the console does start into something. It might be in RCM mode but the USB C port is broken. Could that also be a possibility?

 

[hippy dave]

Okay thanks. I just added that when I hold the Vol Up and Power button the console does start into something. It might be in RCM mode but the USB C port is broken. Could that also be a possibility?

Holding both volume buttons when powering on would put you in recovery mode, but that displays stuff on screen. If it's not that, but a blank screen, then yeah probably RCM and maybe the USB is the issue. The Switch USB port is prone to failure, mine's a bit dodgy but I manage file transfers/installs if I'm careful. Luckily my internal modchip seems to have a totally reliable connection to the relevant USB lines.

 

[Tibor]

I tried connecting it to my PC. My PC usually makes a sound when I connect my other switch. This one does not. It charges but I guess communication is not possible. I will change the USB Port. Thanks for your help, Hippy Dave and KiiWii

 

[binkinator]

I tried connecting it to my PC. My PC usually makes a sound when I connect my other switch. This one does not. It charges but I guess communication is not possible. I will change the USB Port. Thanks for your help, Hippy Dave and KiiWii

Does it have a Trinket M0 in it?

 

[Tibor]

I'm not sure. I havent even heard of it. Is it an outdated modchip?

 

[hippy dave]

I'm not sure. I havent even heard of it. Is it an outdated modchip?

It's not outdated, it's still the primary option for a V1 unpatched modchip. You'd probably be able to see it through the clear case if it was there.

 

[binkinator]

I'm not sure. I havent even heard of it. Is it an outdated modchip?

It's not outdated, it's still the primary option for a V1 unpatched modchip. You'd probably be able to see it through the clear case if it was there.

exactly…very easy to see.

When I first set up my trinket I thought I killed my USB port. A lot of folks who go through the trouble of installing a trinket want to show off their work with those translucent back shells. Check the link above for pics.

 

[Tibor]

exactly…very easy to see.

When I first set up my trinket I thought I killed my USB port. A lot of folks who go through the trouble of installing a trinket want to show off their work with those translucent back shells. Check the link above for pics.

Okay. There’s definitely no modchip in there. I’m just curious why somebody would just install a different backplate and remove the sticker for the serial. It’s weird
Here are the pics

 

[hippy dave]

Some people just like clear cases for the aesthetics and retro vibe. I have them on my joycons but not my tablet.

 

[OhItsSlick]

If you have a multimeter, you can get diode readings of the data lines. You say that your computer isn't registering the switch when plugged into so I'm thinking you've got faulty data lines.

 

[Elodain]

For those ever hesitant to use AutoRCM:

This is why you should use it. Even the best, safest Jigs can eventually damage the pins in your Joycon rail.

 

[Tibor]

I don't think it's the pins that are broken as the console does turn on with a blank screen. If the pins were broken the console woulnd't start or would start in OFW pressing the Power button.

I unfortunately don't have a multimeter. What do I have to do to repair faulty data lines? Repair the whole USB C port?

 

[OhItsSlick]

I don't think it's the pins that are broken as the console does turn on with a blank screen. If the pins were broken the console woulnd't start or would start in OFW pressing the Power button.

I unfortunately don't have a multimeter. What do I have to do to repair faulty data lines? Repair the whole USB C port?

I'm referring to the trace that goes directly to the SOC, not the dataline pins under the charging port, sorry for the mix up. You would need a multimeter to know for sure. In some cases faulty datalines can be repaired by replacing the filter that they connect to but if that doesn't work then it's most likely unfixable or not worth fixing.

The 2 test points are just above the left charging port anchor pin. They have 2 traces going into a filter and sometimes removing this filter fixes it but not always.

 

[hippy dave]

For those ever hesitant to use AutoRCM:

This is why you should use it. Even the best, safest Jigs can eventually damage the pins in your Joycon rail.

Nah if you use a real jig it's no worse that connecting a USB plug into a USB port the same amount of times.

 

[Takokeshi]

Is it possible the screen might simply be busted?

Nah if you use a real jig it's no worse that connecting a USB plug into a USB port the same amount of times.

Or like connecting/disconnecting the joycon as intended

 

[Elodain]

same amount of times.

Exactly. If you, switch between Handheld and docked mode a lot, and use your jig a lot for one reason or another, you're putting extra wear on the pins. Extra wear that can be avoided with AutoRCM.