USB-C data line open

dlh

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I have a switch that is working fine but will not load Hekate from RCM-1 or PC (yes, it is unpatched). When I try it has a black screen but doesn't do anything - and it requires a long power switch hold to get it powered off so it can boot normally.

I suspected USB connector or electronics problem so I opened it up and checked for shorts and USB connector diode readings using a USB terminal board. Found that the D- line (A7/B7) is open circuit. D+ line (A6/B6) shows 0.74V as expected from past tests on many switches.
Did some troubleshooting and found:
A7 and B7 are tied together (expected).
A7 and B7 are connected to the switch, I traced it through several through-pads and found the last place I could trace it to is a through-pad on the bottom of the board under the CPU.
Tried reflowing the CPU, no change in diode readings.

So questions for the brain trust here:
Are there any other tests recommended?
Any idea if the D+/D- lines connect directly to CPU or is there further connections i haven't found?
If I give up, will the unit work normally as an unpatched switch - that is, are the D+ and D- lines used for any normal Nintendo functions? It does dock fine.

Thanks in advance
Dave
 

CoolRunninJA

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I have a switch that is working fine but will not load Hekate from RCM-1 or PC (yes, it is unpatched). When I try it has a black screen but doesn't do anything - and it requires a long power switch hold to get it powered off so it can boot normally.

I suspected USB connector or electronics problem so I opened it up and checked for shorts and USB connector diode readings using a USB terminal board. Found that the D- line (A7/B7) is open circuit. D+ line (A6/B6) shows 0.74V as expected from past tests on many switches.
Did some troubleshooting and found:
A7 and B7 are tied together (expected).
A7 and B7 are connected to the switch, I traced it through several through-pads and found the last place I could trace it to is a through-pad on the bottom of the board under the CPU.
Tried reflowing the CPU, no change in diode readings.

So questions for the brain trust here:
Are there any other tests recommended?
Any idea if the D+/D- lines connect directly to CPU or is there further connections i haven't found?
If I give up, will the unit work normally as an unpatched switch - that is, are the D+ and D- lines used for any normal Nintendo functions? It does dock fine.

Thanks in advance
Dave
Think I am in the same boat as you. Any updates?
 
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