Fuses are burnt when the bootloader of the console detects that you are running a firmware higher than the number of fuses currently burnt. The bootloader is the first thing that the Switch runs. A full list of fuses and their respective firmwares can be found here.Wat cause the e fuses to burn/blow and wat impact does this have?
If you read the text blurb right above the spoiler, it says "Serial number in orange are reported as unpatched..." which lines with up the green for XAJ70042 and below.In the serial number thread why is firmware and serial light up orange 5.10 for XAJ700417 in spoiler at bottom but
But green for XAJ70042 and below at the top confused if mine will be good?
If you read the text blurb right above the spoiler, it says "Serial number in orange are reported as unpatched..." which lines with up the green for XAJ70042 and below.
Yes its safe to follow. You should be using the tl;dr section over the spoiler because its more comprehensive. You should only refer to the spoiler section if the serial number you have is orange in the tl;dr section.Yeah it says
Serial numbers of unpatched Switches. Serial number in orange are reported as unpatched, but should not be used to determin if your Switch us unpatched
Does that mean it’s a maybe safe or 100% safe
Yes its safe to follow. You should be using the tl;dr section over the spoiler because its more comprehensive. You should only refer to the spoiler section if the serial number you have is orange in the tl;dr section.
a few questions:
-if i want to update from 5.1 to 6.0.1 with ChoiDujourNX, do i need some update files? or its all in there?
-is there a guide for this?
-does it automatically enable autoRCM?or i need to do it first?
-i remember autoRCM beeing not safe, ban-wise(and battery). is it true?
thanks
cant i backup my nand and restore it before going online?No. It is recommended to never connect to wifi again after using CFW. You either need two Switches or go legit with 1 (buy your games), or go CFW (without playing online) with 1 those are your options. Nintendo can detect you've used CFW if you go online even if you reboot out of it. That's why if you pay attention to new posts on GBATemp people are saying they're getting banned all the time.
You might get lucky and make it awhile even months but eventually you'll probably end up banned.
cant i backup my nand and restore it before going online?
If you updated to firmware 6.X and subsequently burnt your fuse count to 7, you will have to bypass the fuse check in order to load your NAND backup. If you did not, then you can just restore it. You can check the fuse count with either Hekate or briccmii. Also there is no point in using a clean NAND backup as the EmuNAND as its better suited for storing the hacks, CFW, and homebrew.i made on 10/8/2018 a clean nand backup . i think it was on 5.1.0. with (i think) hekate. Since then i made several updates and used sx ox cfw - can i use this old backup to get my nand clean again and start to use emunand with sx os? Does this have something to do with fuses?
2nd question. is it possible to use my clean nand backup as an emunand?
If you updated to firmware 6.X and subsequently burnt your fuse count to 7, you will have to bypass the fuse check in order to load your NAND backup. If you did not, then you can just restore it. You can check the fuse count with either Hekate or briccmii. Also there is no point in using a clean NAND backup as the EmuNAND as its better suited for storing the hacks, CFW, and homebrew.
It will be fine. The fuses are already burnt so its just a matter of matching the firmware to the fuse count.Thank you, when i go back to 5.1.0 from i think 6.x , override the fuse check , and then update again in ofw, will i be fine? or will it be a brick cause of burning again a fuse?
Ok I fully admit i'm not too smart when it comes to stuff like this, i'm not smart enough to get this 3d jig to work and there's no instructions (probably because it's easy for anyone but me).
This is what I bought.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-SLA-Printed-RCM-Jig-for-Nintendo-Switch-US-Seller-fast-ship/264024777582?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
It slides into the right side of your switch right? well if i do that i can't get the joycon to fit all the way in. Regardless of the direction I enter the jig. I'm afraid to push too hard because it feels like it could ruin my joycon. Help?
Are you inserting the jig and the Joy-Con at the same time? Because you're not supposed to do that.Ok I fully admit i'm not too smart when it comes to stuff like this, i'm not smart enough to get this 3d jig to work and there's no instructions (probably because it's easy for anyone but me).
This is what I bought.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-SLA-Printed-RCM-Jig-for-Nintendo-Switch-US-Seller-fast-ship/264024777582?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
It slides into the right side of your switch right? well if i do that i can't get the joycon to fit all the way in. Regardless of the direction I enter the jig. I'm afraid to push too hard because it feels like it could ruin my joycon. Help?
You REALLY need to make sure you read up on this stuff before you attempt it. You're not supposed try and fit the joycon on the switch with the jig still inside, that should honestly be obvious.. You use the jig to make the switch enter RCM mode, THEN remove the jig and slide in the joycon, if you want to use handheld that is. What exactly are you wanting to do here?
That's what i wanted it wasn't working now it is I needed to push to jig in a little more. I didn't realize you could get in with just the jig and not the joycon lol. I thought the jig had to touch the joycon pins. I did google it and found nothing on 3d printed jigs. But anyway it's working now. I clearly admitted I was dumb with this stuff what more do you want?