Hardware Switch lite resistor value left board

[Curcius]

Hello everyone, I had some problems with my Nintendo switch lite and I verified that the resistor indicated in the photo is open, would anyone know to inform me what the value of this resistor is? I thank you very much.

 

[CHTechRepair]

Hello everyone, I had some problems with my Nintendo switch lite and I verified that the resistor indicated in the photo is open, would anyone know to inform me what the value of this resistor is? I thank you very much.

I don't have a switch lite to measure at the moment, but I likely will soon and can reply ASAP if no one beats me to it. It's a resistor to ground so you can remove it to verify something else isn't shorting that line to ground, the component which I assume is a capacitor just to the left doesn't look very good. Some resistors to ground aren't needed for the device to function.

This appears to be a resistor related to the power and volume buttons, so you can try manually shorting the power button with tweezers to confirm it is the fault. The other component seems to be on LCD backlight which is more concerning.

 

[Curcius]

I don't have a switch lite to measure at the moment, but I likely will soon and can reply ASAP if no one beats me to it. It's a resistor to ground so you can remove it to verify something else isn't shorting that line to ground, the component which I assume is a capacitor just to the left doesn't look very good. Some resistors to ground aren't needed for the device to function.

This appears to be a resistor related to the power and volume buttons, so you can try manually shorting the power button with tweezers to confirm it is the fault. The other component seems to be on LCD backlight which is more concerning.

I thank you for your help, this photo is not of my switch lite, it is an illustration of the resistor, my switch lite broke the FPC connector on the side of the motherboard and caused many problems. The fpc has been changed but some problems continue! The backlight no longer works 100% reaches a maximum of 60%. The left dpad stopped working and the VOL + button. I found this resistor open, the others nearby are 150ohm so I put a 150ohm too but then the switch turned on and off by myself ... then I left it open until I found out which resistor it is!

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I thank you for your help, this photo is not of my switch lite, it is an illustration of the resistor, my switch lite broke the FPC connector on the side of the motherboard and caused many problems. The fpc has been changed but some problems continue! The backlight no longer works 100% reaches a maximum of 60%. The left dpad stopped working and the VOL + button. I found this resistor open, the others nearby are 150ohm so I put a 150ohm too but then the switch turned on and off by myself ... then I left it open until I found out which resistor it is!

so as not to run out of the left Dpad I remap the screenshot button to the left dpad and jumpered the screenshot button to the left dpad button and it’s working like this paleatively

 

[CHTechRepair]

I thank you for your help, this photo is not of my switch lite, it is an illustration of the resistor, my switch lite broke the FPC connector on the side of the motherboard and caused many problems. The fpc has been changed but some problems continue! The backlight no longer works 100% reaches a maximum of 60%. The left dpad stopped working and the VOL + button. I found this resistor open, the others nearby are 150ohm so I put a 150ohm too but then the switch turned on and off by myself ... then I left it open until I found out which resistor it is!

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so as not to run out of the left Dpad I remap the screenshot button to the left dpad and jumpered the screenshot button to the left dpad button and it’s working like this paleatively

Based on what you're telling me some connections are still missing on that FPC. The DPad is very simple so the connections aren't making it back to the main board or it too has some sort of failed resistor along the way which is highly unlikely. Usually ferrite bead resistors fail the other way around, they gain too much resistance to be useful in the circuit or become entirely open. Put the 0ohm back in place it was likely just doing it's thing. Check all connections from FPC to FPC, have a feeling some will be broken.

 

[Curcius]

Based on what you're telling me some connections are still missing on that FPC. The DPad is very simple so the connections aren't making it back to the main board or it too has some sort of failed resistor along the way which is highly unlikely. Usually ferrite bead resistors fail the other way around, they gain too much resistance to be useful in the circuit or become entirely open. Put the 0ohm back in place it was likely just doing it's thing. Check all connections from FPC to FPC, have a feeling some will be broken.

This is the FPC connector on the motherboard, when it broke the FPC it closed short on the backlight line, probably because the backlight didn’t get back to 100%. I'm thinking of buying another backlight IC so what I read is the TPS61163A. Could you tell me which resistors are involved in the commands on the left board (left mini joycon)?

 

[CHTechRepair]

This is the FPC connector on the motherboard, when it broke the FPC it closed short on the backlight line, probably because the backlight didn’t get back to 100%. I'm thinking of buying another backlight IC so what I read is the TPS61163A. Could you tell me which resistors are involved in the commands on the left board (left mini joycon)?

The only part of the left board I would imagine to have an issue is the backlight. Nothing else over there is likely to fail randomly. Maybe if backlight voltage somehow makes it to one of the rails for controller input. The buttons on the switch lite and joycons seem to work on one large circuit based off resistance. You press one button, it adds x resistance, the ICs do the math to determine what you are pressing. Many times issues arise with one button, all buttons stop working. This happens all the time to left joycons with broken L buttons. The entire controller, aside from joystick, just bricks up because the button/cable has been damaged. That's why I'm thinking you're just missing some connections on that FFC connector. Even one missing connection could throw that entire side out of wack. You'll need to measure each rail side to side to confirm they are all making it across, chances are one or two aren't making full contact.

As for backlight, there are 3 separate rails that run to the connector. If your brightness doesn't go beyond a certain point I would imagine one rail is missing and again, I think your issue lies in the FFC connector. I would only replace the backlight driver in the event the backlight did not work at all. The drivers only job is to boost the voltage for backlight when told to by the GPU. If it's able to do this even to 60% the diode, IC, coil, and capacitors are all likely good.

The fact that Vol + was also missing points even more to the FFC connector because those buttons are separate from controller ones and go to different ICs. If you can confirm every connection is making it across I would start looking into comparing each component on the left side board to a known good or swap the board to save the headache I doubt they are too expensive. The only reason it would be damaged is if the L button is damaged or backlight voltage was accidentally sent to a button.

 

[Curcius]

The only part of the left board I would imagine to have an issue is the backlight. Nothing else over there is likely to fail randomly. Maybe if backlight voltage somehow makes it to one of the rails for controller input. The buttons on the switch lite and joycons seem to work on one large circuit based off resistance. You press one button, it adds x resistance, the ICs do the math to determine what you are pressing. Many times issues arise with one button, all buttons stop working. This happens all the time to left joycons with broken L buttons. The entire controller, aside from joystick, just bricks up because the button/cable has been damaged. That's why I'm thinking you're just missing some connections on that FFC connector. Even one missing connection could throw that entire side out of wack. You'll need to measure each rail side to side to confirm they are all making it across, chances are one or two aren't making full contact.

As for backlight, there are 3 separate rails that run to the connector. If your brightness doesn't go beyond a certain point I would imagine one rail is missing and again, I think your issue lies in the FFC connector. I would only replace the backlight driver in the event the backlight did not work at all. The drivers only job is to boost the voltage for backlight when told to by the GPU. If it's able to do this even to 60% the diode, IC, coil, and capacitors are all likely good.

The fact that Vol + was also missing points even more to the FFC connector because those buttons are separate from controller ones and go to different ICs. If you can confirm every connection is making it across I would start looking into comparing each component on the left side board to a known good or swap the board to save the headache I doubt they are too expensive. The only reason it would be damaged is if the L button is damaged or backlight voltage was accidentally sent to a button.

Hello, I did a series of tests on the fpc connector and all connections look good! I checked all the resistors on the side of the motherboard and found one more resistor open! In the photo it is circled, the other resistor on the side that is also horizontal is 3k7, if you can check this resistor for me too I would be very grateful! Regarding the backlight, I saw on the microscope that the IC of the backlight has a chipped tip and provides a maximum of 15.7V instead of 17v ... when I took the flex out of the backlight the voltage went up to 33V! I hope you can help me and I am very grateful for that!

Resistor:

Backlight Ic:

 

[CHTechRepair]

Hello, I did a series of tests on the fpc connector and all connections look good! I checked all the resistors on the side of the motherboard and found one more resistor open! In the photo it is circled, the other resistor on the side that is also horizontal is 3k7, if you can check this resistor for me too I would be very grateful! Regarding the backlight, I saw on the microscope that the IC of the backlight has a chipped tip and provides a maximum of 15.7V instead of 17v ... when I took the flex out of the backlight the voltage went up to 33V! I hope you can help me and I am very grateful for that!

Resistor:

Backlight Ic:

I'm hoping I have a switch lite in tomorrow so I can get some measurements for you. If we have connection end to end let's hope one resistor is causing the whole circuit for the buttons to not work. If you're able to replace the backlight driver go ahead to rule it out as the source. The voltage increase is due to the load of the LEDs no longer being there. With a chip in the driver it's hard not to blame it. If it still acts up I would go ahead and replace the diode and coil too. I have doubts any capacitors would be bad. Those connections run straight to the backlight LEDs themselves so if they are continuous that's the only thing we can do.

 

[Curcius]

I'm hoping I have a switch lite in tomorrow so I can get some measurements for you. If we have connection end to end let's hope one resistor is causing the whole circuit for the buttons to not work. If you're able to replace the backlight driver go ahead to rule it out as the source. The voltage increase is due to the load of the LEDs no longer being there. With a chip in the driver it's hard not to blame it. If it still acts up I would go ahead and replace the diode and coil too. I have doubts any capacitors would be bad. Those connections run straight to the backlight LEDs themselves so if they are continuous that's the only thing we can do.

do you know the value of that inductor and if the tps61136 works in place of the backlight driver?

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I'm hoping I have a switch lite in tomorrow so I can get some measurements for you. If we have connection end to end let's hope one resistor is causing the whole circuit for the buttons to not work. If you're able to replace the backlight driver go ahead to rule it out as the source. The voltage increase is due to the load of the LEDs no longer being there. With a chip in the driver it's hard not to blame it. If it still acts up I would go ahead and replace the diode and coil too. I have doubts any capacitors would be bad. Those connections run straight to the backlight LEDs themselves so if they are continuous that's the only thing we can do.

do you know the value of that inductor and if the tps61136 works in place of the backlight driver?

 

[CHTechRepair]

do you know the value of that inductor and if the tps61136 works in place of the backlight driver?

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do you know the value of that inductor and if the tps61136 works in place of the backlight driver?

I don't really know which ICs will stand in replacement I usually take from a donor or order from china. Same for the inductor. I'm terrible with parts but look through the parts list thread on here those guys have tons of info. The good news is someone gave me a switch for joystick replacement today! The first area beside power/vol and backlight connectors resistor you pulled off is indeed 0ohm, the rest 150ohm and all connected to a specific button. The other you showed above where the side board plugs in doesn't appear to be a resistor based on behavior but maybe I just couldn't get a good read. It's connected to ground and resistance on it isn't constant; it hovers around 1.5m. The component to the right of that is 8.8k on this board but again it's on ground and in circuit. This means that measurement is a function of all resistors in the circuit, not just this one. The fact that you have a different value seems to indicate there is a broken connection somewhere which is likely causing your control issues. Best of luck!