1. xHR

    xHR GBAtemp Regular
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    I found where I screwed up. I have damaged DCDC controller when mound shield back
     
  2. dfd82

    dfd82 Newbie
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    Hello, I have the same problem. How did you solve it?
    The dcdc driver, what is it and how can I check it?
     
  3. rdlf4

    rdlf4 Member
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    You sound experienced with soldering.
    How would you go about removing the solder leftover around each capacitor next to the GPU?
     
  4. rdlf4

    rdlf4 Member
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    Let me get that right, does the "backup Sysnand" (or dump sysnand IIRC) from SXOS actually back up the ORIGINAL (unpatched) sysnand or the patched-by-sxos one? If the former, is that along with running the cleanup function the only requirements prior to removing the chip from Switch Lite or are there more steps before starting desoldering?
     
  5. hartleyshc

    hartleyshc GBAtemp Fan
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    I would just use more flux and get the solder to stick to the tip of the iron. I wouldn't use a desoldering braid in this case.

    Yes, it backs up the unpatched files (technically it removes the patch from the file then backs that up).

    All you have to do is run clean up, or run genuine boot, then shut the system down and remove the chip.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
     
  6. rdlf4

    rdlf4 Member
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    I decided to bank on that theory of yours, so I managed to resurrect my Switch with SXOS and its wires connected.
    One of the issues I was having with SXOS 3.0.5BETA was that it no longer allowed my Switch LITE to go to sleep. I couldn't work around that and the fact it was just ONE of the issues, not to mention the memory card ones.. ugh
    Anyway, I performed the cleanup. It successfully completed. Then I proceeded to disconnect the wires of the hacking board (although it's still soldered onto my system) and I can now finally boot my system without having to desperately hope for it to do so.
    And speaking of that sleep-mode issue (SXOS would immediately shutdown my console, whether it came to sleep after some time of inactivity or when I pressed the POW button), I checked my sysnand's settings and it was still sitting on 10.0.1. So I figured updating the firmware could fix this, maybe? So I did the upgrade, system restarted successfully without my intervention and it got to the welcome area. Then I pressed the POW button, it went to sleep. Pressed it again and it came up. But it was short-lived. I tried it again, but this time it shutdown my device.
    Now, whenever my system goes to sleep, it shuts down and I have to keep my finger pressed down on POW for 14 seconds. After that, I'm able to turn it on. My question is, is that because the board is still soldered on? Any way to fix it now that I'm back to OFW? I just want that thing gone from my system, its led still lights up a blue-ish white upon powering it on and be able to go to sleep and out of it again.
    Side-quest: Would you take my Switch Lite and get the hacking board removed for me? I'll pay you for your services.
     
  7. rdlf4

    rdlf4 Member
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    Job is done, modchip has been removed.
    I did lose one capacitor below the APU (the first from left to right) - not sure which one if I should replace it with:
    * ‎C0603X5R1A104K030BC‎
    TDK Corporation
    CAP CER 0.1UF 10V X5R 0201

    or

    * 02016D105MAT2A‎
    AVX Corporation
    CAP CER 1UF 6.3V X5R 0201
    ============
    Also, I lost this other capacitor, close to internal memory chip:
    Green Joy-Con D-Pad Shells for Nintendo Switch

    Would you happen to know its description?
     
    Last edited by rdlf4, Nov 11, 2020
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