PS5 beeps but doesn't start

[MaxMax02]

Hello,


I picked up a faulty PS5, supposedly never disassembled and still with the warranty sticker intact.
Symptoms: the console emits a beep but doesn’t power on no blue or white LED.


After disassembly, I found:

-No liquid metal
-Flux residue around the Wi-Fi chip
-UART TX and RX pads torn off

Investigations:

-All capacitors under the Wi-Fi chip were shorted. The Wi-Fi chip was also slightly misaligned. I removed it, but the short circuit remains.
-Two capacitors on the F7002 line were also shorted. The fuse is intact. After removal, the capacitors were completely dead.
-When injecting current, I noticed a hot spot on the back side of the motherboard around the F7002 area, likely a voltage regulator.

I tried using an EDM030 board as a donor, but it’s too different from the EDM010. So I salvaged capacitors of similar size and color for the F7002 area and the regulator.


After replacement:

-No more short circuit around F7002 and under the Wi-Fi chip
-I’ve ordered a new Wi-Fi chip and solder balls for testing

Question: Is it problematic to replace capacitors solely based on size and color, or do you have any suggestions to improve this repair? Also, is it an issue to reflow components using 138°C solder?


Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[jkyoho]

Also, is it an issue to reflow components using 138°C solder

Not an issue but 138C wont do anything. You might need 381C instead.

Is it problematic to replace capacitors solely based on size and color, or do you have any suggestions to improve this repair?

why dont you circle the caps area you need and upload the picture here?

FYI the component you circled in the picture is a 1uH inductor

 

[MaxMax02]

Thanks for your reply.


For the capacitors, I used low-temperature solder (138 °C), which is much easier to work with. I was wondering if this could cause any issues.


As for the two capacitors I replaced, I took them from an EDM030 donor board, choosing ones of the same color and size, located in the 7002 area.

Could this be a problem? I’m concerned they might not have the same value.

 

[jkyoho]

WHY dont you measure the value before you put them in the circuit? They should be 22uF if I remember correctly.
Low melt solder(Bi involved) is not recommended for high heat application.(console gets more than 60C often, unlike smart phones)

 

[MaxMax02]

WHY dont you measure the value before you put them in the circuit? They should be 22uF if I remember correctly.
Low melt solder(Bi involved) is not recommended for high heat application.(console gets more than 60C often, unlike smart phones)

My multimeter can’t measure µF… Am I taking a risk by doing this?
I’ll redo the soldering, but I’m waiting to receive my leaded solder first

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

My multimeter can’t measure µF… Am I taking a risk by doing this?
I’ll redo the soldering, but I’m waiting to receive my leaded solder first

Get a cheap-ass capacitor/inductance meter from Ali or Amazon.
They are like $15.

Note that the component you encircled in your opening post is the inductor in the schema that jkyoho was so kind to provide.

Redneck approach to repairs :
In most cases, big capacitors are used for smoothing the input/output voltage and to get rid of the most violent fluctuations.
Getting something in the same range will usually be no problem.
The worst thing that can happen is instability.
For small capacitors the value does have some meaning. Replace those with the right value.

 

[MaxMax02]

Get a cheap-ass capacitor/inductance meter from Ali or Amazon.
They are like $15.

Note that the component you encircled in your opening post is the inductor in the schema that jkyoho was so kind to provide.

Redneck approach to repairs :
In most cases, big capacitors are used for smoothing the input/output voltage and to get rid of the most violent fluctuations.
Getting something in the same range will usually be no problem.
The worst thing that can happen is instability.
For small capacitors the value does have some meaning. Replace those with the right value.

Thank you for your advice!


I’m going to buy a capacitance meter. In my case, both are dead, so it’s difficult to measure them. I’ll replace them with 22 µF ones (according to jkyoho). Does the 0603 size seem appropriate to you?

 

[jkyoho]

Thank you for your advice!


I’m going to buy a capacitance meter. In my case, both are dead, so it’s difficult to measure them. I’ll replace them with 22 µF ones (according to jkyoho). Does the 0603 size seem appropriate to you?

Yes, 0603 imperial is the right size, and you should order 22uF_6.3v_0603 specs since they are on the 3.3v_standby rail.
FYI, the resistor below 2caps looks broken solder on the right.

 

[MaxMax02]

Indeed, in the photo, it looks like the solder joint is broken. I’ll take a closer look.





Regarding the small capacitor near the resistor, do you know its size and value? If I also need to replace the resistor, I’m afraid of losing it.

 

[jkyoho]

Regarding the small capacitor near the resistor, do you know its size and value?

should be a 0.1uF/100nF_6.3v_0201 cap

 

[MaxMax02]

I’m still waiting for the Wi-Fi chip, so I haven’t been able to test yet.


I have a question in mind: under the Wi-Fi chip there are several capacitors of the same size. Do you know if they all have the same value?


I removed them during the test, but without paying attention to the order beginner’s mistake…

 

[jkyoho]

I have a question in mind: under the Wi-Fi chip there are several capacitors of the same size. Do you know if they all have the same value?

Same 10uF value, except the 0201 small one is 0.1uF

 

[MaxMax02]

I received the Wi-Fi chip today, great news, the chip already has its balls.
While watching some videos, I saw some people putting solder on the PCB pads.
Personally, I was planning to clean the solder with a wick without adding more.
What do you think? Just clean, or clean and add solder?

 

[MaxMax02]

Hey guys,





Yesterday, I replaced the Wi-Fi chip — everything went smoothly, and there’s no more short circuit in that area.





After that, I reassembled the console: it powered on for a second with a blue light, then turned off. So I decided to take it apart again to check the motherboard.





I didn’t find any short circuits. I tried turning it on again, but this time there was no beep or blue light.





I have 5V present, but the 3.3V is missing.





Do you think this could be caused by the inductor I replaced?





I also noticed that a component related to the BIOS battery is missing (see photo).





Any ideas?

 

[MaxMax02]

Hi,





I’m bringing this up again in case someone might be able to help.