Hello guys, this is my first post here! I just got a MIG Switch card out of curiosity and I was tinkering with it. For those who don't know, it's used by placing XCI dumps as well as other game specific bin files in the sd card of the MIG Switch, and are obtained from the original cartridge by using an app like nxdumptool. Two of these bin files are mandatory to get the game to boot: Initial Data.bin and Certificate.bin. They stay the same for every cartridge of a specific game. Now, if you want to use an XCI dump from a shady website it's impossible to get it to work without those files. By using the Certificate.bin from another game it has no problem, but this does not count for the Initial Data.bin. So I looked for a way to obtain this Initial Data from an XCI file and read a bit of the XCI file documentation from switchbrew dot org. Here's what I understood so far: The Switch checks if the cartridge is valid by doing a challenge–response authentication on the Initial Data. The Package ID is contained both on the XCI and the Initial Data, on positions 0x110 and 0x0 respectively. The Initial Data hash is on the XCI at position 0x160. It is calculated by doing a SHA-256 hash on the full Initial Data content. So I was wondering, is there a way to to construct a functional Initial Data file starting from an XCI dump? I also tried a reverse approach by editing the Package ID in the Initial Data from another game, generating the Initial Data hash and putting it in the XCI file but is not enough to get the Switch believe it's a real game. Sorry if this may seem stupid but let me know what you think.

duckstation for Switch

catlover007 · 2024-04-22T04:06:40+00:00

duckstation is an excellent Playstation 1 emulator by Stenzek. It has a very good compabiility and it is quite performant. It also supports all kinds of enhancements such as high resolution rendering and PGXP which can lessen the "wobble" and...

Looking for advice for on bricked switch

CapTec

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Dec 28, 2020

I have an interesting problem with a switch I picked up broken on ebay.

The switch I bought was sold as black screen and not working. I kinda figured it'd be a charging IC, either a P13USB chip, M92T36 or BQ chip. I was wrong. electrically I see absolutely nothing wrong with this switch. No components are shorting and all the caps are reading good.

So, naturally I checked using an amp meter and It's drawing 0.41 amps at 5v when plugged in. Visual check of the PCB is okay and all the USB pins are giving back expected voltage drop ratings when testing in diode mode.

Anyways, I decided for the hell of it to plug it into a PC and see if it loads RCM. It does. In fact it loads RCM with a regular power on (without holding the volume button or a jig present). It's loading into recovery mode each time it boots. So I figure it must have had auto RCM enabled by its previous owner at some point or be in some kind of fault condition. Anyways I figured I'd pop in my SD card that has Hekate on it and inject the Hekate payload. The payload injects but still no display. So I figured it might be a faulty LCD and tried another working one I have lying around.

Still nothing

Does anyone have any ideas of what I can check next?

Hardware Looking for advice for on bricked switch

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