1. slslasher

    OP slslasher GBAtemp Regular
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    AWG30 I think, I I dont have a bigger picture because the button is quite small. My phone camera can't focus and it will look blurish.
    The important part is that the stripped wire must be able to touch the metal plate when u press the eject button.
     
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  2. Codiox

    Codiox GBAtemp Regular
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    thank you, i tried it today but no luck. Huge respect to you, the putting on the glue was impossible for me. Also because this is still mechanical, i dont think it will last long. will try the magnethax.

    thanks anyway!
     
  3. AlexCD17

    AlexCD17 Newbie
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    That's a very good idea!

    I managed to pass the wires through the rail buttons and their board, I didn't cut anything. I used awg30 wires.
    I also use aluminium tape to attach the wire to the eject pin, unfortunately the tape I used didn't have conductive glue so I had to use two layers, there are copper tapes used for guitar shielding that have conductive glue and can be better.

    Everything fit and works as intended. Thanks for the tip.

    Since I'm a new user I can't attach any images -_-
    image.ibb.co/bDQpEo/20180626_155514.jpg
    image.ibb.co/gKhSZo/20180626_155501.jpg

    P.S: English is not my native language, if I made a mistake please correct me in order to keep learning. Thanks.
     
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  4. vhaines

    vhaines GBAtemp Regular
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    So far this mods is one of the best, easy to do and it looks neat.
     
  5. mitcha

    mitcha مجاهد صنديد مقاتل عنيد
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    Hi , i like to test this méthode , but i dont have the triangle screw driver.
    Two questions :
    -Any one have tried to open the two screws with something else ?
    -can you put a zoomed picture of the top of the joycon ,the exact place where the solders point are, please.
    thanks in advance
     
  6. Dfroberts86

    Dfroberts86 Advanced Member
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    I wouldn't recommend using anything else other then the tri-tip screw driver. Those can strip super easy.
     
  7. mitcha

    mitcha مجاهد صنديد مقاتل عنيد
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    ok, just ordered one now , will wait and make this soldering version happen.
     
  8. slslasher

    OP slslasher GBAtemp Regular
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    U could try the alloy bullocks version. I know this is mechanical but this is just wire, if you leave enough room for the wire to move around it will last you a very long time before the wire breaks. Of course the glue must be long lasting too.

    I will take a new pic when my alloy bullocks reached.

    This is neat! Can I use ur pic in the first post?
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2018
  9. AlexCD17

    AlexCD17 Newbie
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    Sure!
     
  10. mugendc4

    mugendc4 Member
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    Pretty cool mod, might do this when my SX Pro comes in. Noob question though, how does the eject button short the pin/wires? I'm planning to get the metal buckles so I can solder directly to it but just curious how it works.
     
  11. SrBolainas

    SrBolainas Newbie
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    My version for more space
     

    Attached Files:

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  12. Captain_Smek

    Captain_Smek GBAtemp Regular
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    I did this mod, and man there's really no space for any extra wire at all under the hood. I used 30awg and hid one wire along the top where the sl/sr run and the other I had along the bottom under the circuit board.

    The metal locking pin would make things sooo much easier, but I went with the original and carefully made a 1mm hole directly below where the metal retainer is above then put a small screw there/sheared it off once set and used that as the point to solder the wire to, then soldered the other wire to the metal retainer above. It works good and looks clean, but was a headache to fit at first until I cleaned up and made the wires the exact length needed.
     
  13. pandavova

    pandavova @pandavova FOLLOW ME ON TWITTER
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    That look really nice, i will prolly try that.
     
  14. Aszrael

    Aszrael Member
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    Just finalized my version based on yours. I was most afraid of the soldering job (on photos the solder dots look MUSH bigger). However, correctly mounting the cable on the buckle ledge (so it will disconnect after releasing the eject button) was the most difficult part...
    Hence, I decided to modify it a bit:

    • cable path: I took rather thin wires (from a broken USB cable), so I didn't care about the correct path. And: no removal of joy con plastic!
    • First cable: The trickiest thing was mounting it on the buckle ledge. I went without glue. Just left the cable a bit longer and bent it over the buckle ledge to the bottom, where the actual eject button sits (-> cable forms a hook). The cable will be squeezezed between the buckle bottom and the eject button -> it is fixed on the ledge but always will move down with the ledge, releasing the connection.
    • Second cable: This I put behind the metal plate instead of winding it around the screw. Looks cleaner in my opinion, but that's my thinking.
    Finally, working great as intended. So the only thing missing now is a working SXOS dongle (mine was broken on arrival).

    Thanks for this great walkthough.

    P.S.: I'm not convinced by the metal buckels:
    • I think the cable will not be simpler to attach (plastic is better with glue/solder will not work either).
    • I fear the metal plate (-> second cable) will always be in connection with the buckel (--> shortening the connection). Keep in mind the metal plate keeps the buckle in place!
    P.S.2: no photos, sorry. I definitely will not open my joy con again until it's necessary. I'm so happy it's working right now...
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2018
  15. Captain_Smek

    Captain_Smek GBAtemp Regular
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    The trick to the metal buckle is making a thin plastic cover behind the metal plate so it can only touch at the bottom when it rises up to connect.
     
  16. Aszrael

    Aszrael Member
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    ...this would imply that the plastic behind the mounting metal is thin enough so it will not block / hinder the buckle from movement ;)
    And: how would you permanently fix that plastic?

    However, just ordered a pair as well as my left Joy Con is rather loose - so as soon as it arrives I will try this method, too.
     
  17. Andalitez

    Andalitez GBAtemp Fan
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    Insulation/electric tape comes to mind.
    Also waiting for my buckles to arrive,then going to use my Dremel Versatip for the first time lol.
    Hope I dont mess this up.I still dont understand how they are shorting,but I guess once I've opened it up I can see how it all works together
     
  18. Aszrael

    Aszrael Member
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    Good luck! Post your result.
    Just a hint from my side: Do the soldering to pin 1 and 10 at last. First mount the cables to the buckle and the back metal holding the buckle.
    Too late I come up with the idea of forming a hook with the buckle ledge and the eject button below - so it was rather fiddly to put it there.

    Next life I will go with the 'official' method provided by team excuter and use a switch. Also the eject button method works rather good, it is nor very convenient to press the eject button while making the Vol+ / Power-Button combo.
     
  19. Captain_Smek

    Captain_Smek GBAtemp Regular
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    It can just be a piece of Kapton tape, anything to isolate the steel from the buckle area.
     
  20. Andalitez

    Andalitez GBAtemp Fan
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    I was able to do this today.

    Never soldered before,it was mostly a success but in my inexperience,i melted the plastic of the joycon.
    Not a big deal because i'm planning on getting white joy con shells with the famicom buttons.

    I was able to isolate the metal with electrical tape.Was a bit of a mission to solder to the metal buckles though
     
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