Feedback Is it worth upgrading from v1 to OLED?

[perspex]

I went on a trip to Thailand recently and noticed pre-modded OLEDs being sold at shops. Don't get me wrong, I love my v1 modded switch but the OLED man, that's some good shiz.

Is it worth the upgrade? Should I spend the moniesss? That performance boost and tasty screen are making my hands itchy to get one. But I have no idea on how hardmodded switches function...what are the cons? cause if something goes wrong, I'm pretty sure I'm not smart enough to fix it.

 

[Hayato213]

If you play a lot of handheld mode then yes.

 

[perspex]

isnt the oled more powerful than v1 even in docked mode?

 

[Hayato213]

isnt the oled more powerful than v1 even in docked mode?

The perk of having an oled is that if you play handheld mode all the time may as well go with an oled. V2 and OLED cpu are more efficient than v1 that why better battery life. V1 and OLED have the same clock speed so no performance difference.

 

[B-alpha]

In my opinion, no, taki udon is in the development of oled screens for v1 switches. The die shrink of the v2 is at that point (the succesor will be announcend at some point) not worht it

 

[notsu]

Definitely worth it if you're into overclocking or L4T.

 

[WhoIAm]

The OLED is by far the best Switch once it's properly undervolted and overclocked. The OLED version also has a better dock with more bandwidth, capable of supporting 4K 60hz or even higher refresh rates at 1080p. This might not seem notable, since nothing really uses it yet, but homebrew is starting to allow Switch games to run at >60fps and an OLED Switch + OLED dock are required to take full advantage of this capability. Just having a V2 Switch isn't enough; it needs to be the OLED model paired with its own dock.

As for undervolting/overclocking, there's no contest. The OLED model runs higher clocks with lower temps and less fan noise in handheld mode, than the v1 can run in completely maxed-out docked mode. The v1 already feels much nicer when overclocked, but the OLED is like having a new console.

Otherwise, the OLED feels sturdier, screen and bezels are much nicer, better speakers, twice the internal storage, etc. all good improvements over the other models.

The improvements are big enough that I actually believe the rumor that the Switch OLED was once meant to be a proper Switch Pro, but Nintendo backed out of spec improvements for some reason or another.

But I have no idea on how hardmodded switches function...what are the cons?

There's a small adjustment, but it's not much different than a softmodded v1. You don't need to use a jig and payload pusher to boot into hekate anymore, you just press the power button and it automatically boots to hekate as long as its files are on the SD card. The only things to get used to are 1) you can no longer coldboot OFW, you have to use hekate's boot entry for that and 2) atmosphere's "reboot to payload" doesn't work on hardmodded consoles, instead you just shut down the console and turn it on again to reboot into hekate.

One final note: if you're interested in undervolting/overclocking, make sure you get the unit with the highest speedos. (They're numbers that basically denote the console's overclocking potential, higher = better). You can just ask the seller to check them in hekate, more instructions here: https://rentry.co/mariko#checking-speedo-and-ram-type RAM type also matters, try to find a Switch with S-tier or better.

 

[perspex]

The OLED is by far the best Switch once it's properly undervolted and overclocked. The OLED version also has a better dock with more bandwidth, capable of supporting 4K 60hz or even higher refresh rates at 1080p. This might not seem notable, since nothing really uses it yet, but homebrew is starting to allow Switch games to run at >60fps and an OLED Switch + OLED dock are required to take full advantage of this capability. Just having a V2 Switch isn't enough; it needs to be the OLED model paired with its own dock.

As for undervolting/overclocking, there's no contest. The OLED model runs higher clocks with lower temps and less fan noise in handheld mode, than the v1 can run in completely maxed-out docked mode. The v1 already feels much nicer when overclocked, but the OLED is like having a new console.

Otherwise, the OLED feels sturdier, screen and bezels are much nicer, better speakers, twice the internal storage, etc. all good improvements over the other models.

The improvements are big enough that I actually believe the rumor that the Switch OLED was once meant to be a proper Switch Pro, but Nintendo backed out of spec improvements for some reason or another.



There's a small adjustment, but it's not much different than a softmodded v1. You don't need to use a jig and payload pusher to boot into hekate anymore, you just press the power button and it automatically boots to hekate as long as its files are on the SD card. The only things to get used to are 1) you can no longer coldboot OFW, you have to use hekate's boot entry for that and 2) atmosphere's "reboot to payload" doesn't work on hardmodded consoles, instead you just shut down the console and turn it on again to reboot into hekate.

One final note: if you're interested in undervolting/overclocking, make sure you get the unit with the highest speedos. (They're numbers that basically denote the console's overclocking potential, higher = better). You can just ask the seller to check them in hekate, more instructions here: https://rentry.co/mariko#checking-speedo-and-ram-type RAM type also matters, try to find a Switch with S-tier or better.

damn this is like a full on guide. thanks for all the info.

 

[notsu]

The OLED is by far the best Switch once it's properly undervolted and overclocked. The OLED version also has a better dock with more bandwidth, capable of supporting 4K 60hz or even higher refresh rates at 1080p. This might not seem notable, since nothing really uses it yet, but homebrew is starting to allow Switch games to run at >60fps and an OLED Switch + OLED dock are required to take full advantage of this capability. Just having a V2 Switch isn't enough; it needs to be the OLED model paired with its own dock.

As for undervolting/overclocking, there's no contest. The OLED model runs higher clocks with lower temps and less fan noise in handheld mode, than the v1 can run in completely maxed-out docked mode. The v1 already feels much nicer when overclocked, but the OLED is like having a new console.

Otherwise, the OLED feels sturdier, screen and bezels are much nicer, better speakers, twice the internal storage, etc. all good improvements over the other models.

The improvements are big enough that I actually believe the rumor that the Switch OLED was once meant to be a proper Switch Pro, but Nintendo backed out of spec improvements for some reason or another.



There's a small adjustment, but it's not much different than a softmodded v1. You don't need to use a jig and payload pusher to boot into hekate anymore, you just press the power button and it automatically boots to hekate as long as its files are on the SD card. The only things to get used to are 1) you can no longer coldboot OFW, you have to use hekate's boot entry for that and 2) atmosphere's "reboot to payload" doesn't work on hardmodded consoles, instead you just shut down the console and turn it on again to reboot into hekate.

One final note: if you're interested in undervolting/overclocking, make sure you get the unit with the highest speedos. (They're numbers that basically denote the console's overclocking potential, higher = better). You can just ask the seller to check them in hekate, more instructions here: https://rentry.co/mariko#checking-speedo-and-ram-type RAM type also matters, try to find a Switch with S-tier or better.

Is there a guaranteed way to get an NEI/NEE RAM OLED if you're buying new? Like are any of the special editions better in this regard?

 

[WhoIAm]

Is there a guaranteed way to get an NEI/NEE RAM OLED if you're buying new? Like are any of the special editions better in this regard?

Unfortunately not, and in fact I've heard that newer production runs are trending towards worse RAM bins, probably as an end-of-lifecycle cost-cutting measure. Besides that, I've heard that there's no correlation between manufacture date and part quality - it's a complete lottery. You could have a unit from 2021 with horrible speedos, or one from 2023 with great speedos. I guess you could go for an older special edition to somewhat increase your chances of getting a better RAM bin, but it's not guaranteed.

NEI/NEE seem to be very rare in general (hence the "God-tier" label; S through B tier seem way more common, with anything below that being very unlucky). It's not super important to get God-tier RAM anyways, a good S-tier should do 2400-2500MHz just fine, and that's enough to hit 60fps in a lot of games. At that point, further performance is usually bottlenecked by CPU or GPU, which have their own overclocking limitations.

In any case, your best bet is to look for a unit that's already modded, but before committing, ask the seller to show speedo/RAM information. They should have no problem doing so if it's already modded, all they need to do is boot Hekate and go to the info page. I would *not* buy a brand new unit and hack it later; it's too random.

 

[Reploid]

Never buy same console twice

 

[snk2]

One final note: if you're interested in undervolting/overclocking, make sure you get the unit with the highest speedos. (They're numbers that basically denote the console's overclocking potential, higher = better). You can just ask the seller to check them in hekate, more instructions here: https://rentry.co/mariko#checking-speedo-and-ram-type RAM type also matters, try to find a Switch with S-tier or better.

Is there a way to check these outside of Hekate, like with some other homebrew that runs in HOS? I have a modded OLED but the screen is busted so I can't use Hekate.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

The OLED is by far the best Switch once it's properly undervolted and overclocked. The OLED version also has a better dock with more bandwidth, capable of supporting 4K 60hz or even higher refresh rates at 1080p. This might not seem notable, since nothing really uses it yet, but homebrew is starting to allow Switch games to run at >60fps and an OLED Switch + OLED dock are required to take full advantage of this capability. Just having a V2 Switch isn't enough; it needs to be the OLED model paired with its own dock.

As for undervolting/overclocking, there's no contest. The OLED model runs higher clocks with lower temps and less fan noise in handheld mode, than the v1 can run in completely maxed-out docked mode. The v1 already feels much nicer when overclocked, but the OLED is like having a new console.

Otherwise, the OLED feels sturdier, screen and bezels are much nicer, better speakers, twice the internal storage, etc. all good improvements over the other models.

The improvements are big enough that I actually believe the rumor that the Switch OLED was once meant to be a proper Switch Pro, but Nintendo backed out of spec improvements for some reason or another.



There's a small adjustment, but it's not much different than a softmodded v1. You don't need to use a jig and payload pusher to boot into hekate anymore, you just press the power button and it automatically boots to hekate as long as its files are on the SD card. The only things to get used to are 1) you can no longer coldboot OFW, you have to use hekate's boot entry for that and 2) atmosphere's "reboot to payload" doesn't work on hardmodded consoles, instead you just shut down the console and turn it on again to reboot into hekate.

One final note: if you're interested in undervolting/overclocking, make sure you get the unit with the highest speedos. (They're numbers that basically denote the console's overclocking potential, higher = better). You can just ask the seller to check them in hekate, more instructions here: https://rentry.co/mariko#checking-speedo-and-ram-type RAM type also matters, try to find a Switch with S-tier or better.

If you just disable reboot to payload then you don't need to fully turn the console off.

 

[WhoIAm]

Is there a way to check these outside of Hekate, like with some other homebrew that runs in HOS? I have a modded OLED but the screen is busted so I can't use Hekate.

If you follow the guide here https://rentry.co/howtoget60fps and set up Ultrahand and Switchcraft (the undervolting utility), you can check your RAM type and CPU/GPU speedos in HOS. Once it's all set up, open Ultrahand by pressing ZL+ZR+dpad down, then press dpad right to access Switchcraft. Press d-pad right again to show new options, then select Info. You'll see an overview like the one in the picture, your RAM type and CPU/GPU speedos are shown in the top-right of each section in white. (It doesn't show SoC speedo for some reason, I think hekate's needed for that.)

 

[snk2]

If you follow the guide here https://rentry.co/howtoget60fps and set up Ultrahand and Switchcraft (the undervolting utility), you can check your RAM type and CPU/GPU speedos in HOS. Once it's all set up, open Ultrahand by pressing ZL+ZR+dpad down, then press dpad right to access Switchcraft. Press d-pad right again to show new options, then select Info. You'll see an overview like the one in the picture, your RAM type and CPU/GPU speedos are shown in the top-right of each section in white. (It doesn't show SoC speedo for some reason, I think hekate's needed for that.)

thanks, I'll try it