Hacking INSTINCT-NX Chip

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why not just use the flex cable that came with it?

I pre tinned the bottom of the CLK (D) point, aligned the flex cable (anchored by soldering to shield), and then held the flex down with tweezers while applying hot air to solder the contact to the via
 

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why not just use the flex cable that came with it?

I pre tinned the bottom of the CLK (D) point, aligned the flex cable (anchored by soldering to shield), and then held the flex down with tweezers while applying hot air to solder the contact to the via
i have ts100 not a right tool for the job, my D point barely got some solder stick to it and the ribon D point i cant get it to join to that but some how i make it work, lesson learn need a proper soldering station
btw nice soldering job
 
If there's barely any solder sticking to the CLK point, maybe the mask isn't scratched off enough yet. When it's nice shining copper, you can get a nice little blob of solder onto it quite easily. Just make sure you don't go too far, but with a nice scratch pen or electronic grinding pen it's very easy to work slowly and accurately.
If you cannot do it with hot air then I suggest making a small incision in the rectangular pad on the flex cable, so that there's an opening where the CLK point sits. Then you can bridge over the opening with a solder blob that goes perfectly over the CLK via. I'll try to find a picture.
 
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If there's barely any solder sticking to the CLK point, maybe the mask isn't scratched off enough yet. When it's nice shining copper, you can get a nice little blob of solder onto it quite easily. Just make sure you don't go too far, but with a nice scratch pen or electronic grinding pen it's very easy to work slowly and accurately.
If you cannot do it with hot air then I suggest making a small incision in the rectangular pad on the flex cable, so that there's an opening where the CLK point sits. Then you can bridge over the opening with a solder blob that goes perfectly over the CLK via. I'll try to find a picture.
I think I scrapped my D too deep. I messed it up, now I can’t get the solder stuck to the D point. When I removed the flex cable n tried to turn on, my switch not even turn on. Do you know what cause the switch not to turn on?
 
I think I scrapped my D too deep. I messed it up, now I can’t get the solder stuck to the D point. When I removed the flex cable n tried to turn on, my switch not even turn on. Do you know what cause the switch not to turn on?
something is short to ground in my case before, but with ur said remove the flex check if any component missing or damage
 
I think I scrapped my D too deep. I messed it up, now I can’t get the solder stuck to the D point. When I removed the flex cable n tried to turn on, my switch not even turn on. Do you know what cause the switch not to turn on?
the via runs 4 layers deep so even if you scrapped everything on the first layer, you can reveal it again on the second.
but if that happened, it might be better to give the job to a pro before damage turns irreversible
 
I think I scrapped my D too deep. I messed it up, now I can’t get the solder stuck to the D point. When I removed the flex cable n tried to turn on, my switch not even turn on. Do you know what cause the switch not to turn on?
cant he just connect to the trace ?,but maybe like you said,if he scrape too much of the via,then better don't advice him to scrape the trace.
 
the via runs 4 layers deep so even if you scrapped everything on the first layer, you can reveal it again on the second.
but if that happened, it might be better to give the job to a pro before damage turns irreversible
I think I broke my switch because it won’t even turn on when I removed flex cable. Do I need to remov DAT0? See if it turn on?
 
To remove modchip, disconnect the Tegra flex + RST wire. The rest can remain and will not interfere.
 
Do you guys use wires?,cause i saw yesterday a video on youtube where the guy soldered wires and they shorted on the pads to ground.
Measures begin @16:40

 
Last edited by fille,

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