Gaming [HELP} NDSL bricked or electronic component screwed, from flashme?

[migles]

i tried to install flashme, i loaded the rom in the flashcart, and it was 0% with a beep noise, so i grabbed some foil sheet and inserted in the hole with the help of a cotton swab. the console instantly turned it off, i tried to turn it on again, for recovery, but the console didn't respond, taked out the battery and tried again, nothing, i left the console some hours without the battery and then i tried to charge it (with the battery again inside) the orange light is on for just 1 second, and still the console don't respond...

how can i fix this? i still didnt opened the console, but do you think i just short circuited something on the board, or it was a software brick

ideas and testing pins etc for do repairs?

i have a friend who is experienced at soldering, and got lots of old computers and cables and etc...

edit: note i had used flashme "no autoboot" from this guide/website https://home.comcast.net/~olimar/flashme/

 

[superspudz2000]

i did that several times the last time i installed flashme, and it still worked perfectly fine. it shorts out something on the inside, but it shouldent damage the console, and flashme cant brick if it dosent reach 100%.

can you try a different battery? maybe even buy a dirt cheap hong kong battey off ebay just to test it.

in the case of a brick, (not likely) you can switch the wifi module (google it), from a cheap old cracked screen DS.

 

[Sicklyboy]

If the charging light is shutting off after a second that's indicative that you blew the F1 and/or F2 fuse(s). I'd get inside there with a multimeter and check them.

 

[migles]

superspudz2000 i can play pogymanz for +6 hours (about the same time as officially battery duration time) and this happened the moment i short circuited the required pin for flashme (i was runing flashme and the battery was almost full) but i will buy one battery backup after trying what i can...

Sicklyboy i did take out the battery for some hours, when i plugged it, (i dont remember the sequence i did) but after trying several times with the charged, the green light turned on for one second then shuted off, but not at the same time as the orange one.. weird thing

before trying flashme i asked FAST6191 in case i did brick my nds lite, what i could do, he mentioned about using ppflash tool, which required soldering and a parallel port, i would like to check on this, and try it, anyone know info about this? and there is a way of telling if the bios is not empty? i would like to get all the information i can before opening the console, and for others who have this problem too

 

[jurassicplayer]

There IS a reason why the instructions for FlashMe say "Be careful not to touch any other parts inside the DS, or it may shut off unexpectedly."
If this question was like...4 years ago, I could have totally told you the answer because I wonderfully did that to mine to try it thanks to knowing how to fix it at that time. You should just curse yourself for attempting to do such a feat that provides next to nothing these days and not insulating your tool before haphazardly shoving it in.

Though if I recall correctly I either used a slot-1 or slot-2 device per recovery instructions to fix it...btw just for information...but your firmware on your DS, you might as well assume you don't have it, because you probably don't. The ppflash thing IIRC is literally soldering points to the chip so you can manually flash the firmware back onto it because you borked it the first time you tried.

 

[Drink the Bleach]

Risk bricking your system using outdated tutorials from yesteryear just so you don't have to press a button after pressing power. Worth it.

 

[migles]

jurassicplayer i am not blamming the tool, i know it was myself fault, and i am asking instructions to "clean my mess" i am sorry if i did not used the right title for the thread.. i didn't insult the tool in anyway.

but after seeing the board on internet, i dont think i really touched anything else... what could i touch in that hole besides the pcb?

was the instructions press start + select with a slot 1 flashcart? i already tried that, i watched on youtube, the console had to turn the green light on and stay ON, in my case it doesn't even turn on... it just did once after trying several things for one second...

in case the firmware is cleaned:
i would like to try to manual flash the firmware using soldering, i have a friend who can do that, but first i think i have one problem, i didn't make a backup of the firmware, can i flash it with another ds lite firmware from "google" sources? or its possible to extract the flashme firmware so i could manual install it?

Drink the Bleach if you don't have nothing to say except sarcasm, people who suffers this problem and myself, will appreciate so please if you want to help ok! if you don't please get out... i did this so i could take more advantage of my slot 2 flashcard, i wanted to boot it in nds mode for several reasons, NOT to remove the warning screen like you thought. (if you readed my post you would know i used the version WITH the warning screen)

 

[migles]

NEWS: i found out if i take the battery out, and plug the charger in the NDSL, and quickly turn it on the green light turns on for about half of a second... (while the orange light is on for 1 second) does this mean anything? like fuse is broken, or the problem on the battery jurassicplayer mentioned?

 

[driverdis]

NEWS: i found out if i take the battery out, and plug the charger in the NDSL, and quickly turn it on the green light turns on for about half of a second... (while the orange light is on for 1 second) does this mean anything? like fuse is broken, or the problem on the battery jurassicplayer mentioned?

The fuse is blown, just bridge it with solder, and while you are doing that, solder a bridge over SL1 too so you can flash flashme. I left the point bridged on mine with 0 bad side effects and I can reflash it anytime I want as SL1 is always bridged.

 

[Sicklyboy]

SL1 isn't supposed to always be bridged, so I wouldn't put solder over it. It definitely sounds like f1 and/or f2 are blown, so you can check them with a multimeter and bridge over them or replace them. With the case open you can scrape the top of sl1 with a razor a bit, sometimes it has a bit of a coating on it that makes it harder to short.

 

[superspudz2000]

i heard somewhere that the bios is located in the "wifi module" the removable block on the board.

anyboody can clarify that?, because you can try switching it with a clean one before attempting soldering. and there only like $2.99 on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nintendo-DS-lite-Wi-Fi-Module-Repair-part-OEM-Tested-/220816590575

 

[Foxi4]

The BIOS is surely fine and there's no reason to replace it, the installation procedure hasn't begun. As many users above mentioned, chances are that you accidentally shorted the system and blew one of the fuses - they're easily replacable and can be bridged. As for SL1, it should not be permanently soldered - if anything, you can solder a jumper or a switch to it for convenience.

 

[Sicklyboy]

The BIOS is surely fine and there's no reason to replace it, the installation procedure hasn't begun. As many users above mentioned, chances are that you accidentally shorted the system and blew one of the fuses - they're easily replacable and can be bridged. As for SL1, it should not be permanently soldered - if anything, you can solder a jumper or a switch to it for convenience.

I wouldn't say it's a sure thing that no flashing occurred, it could have begun the very beginning of the flash which would leave him with a corrupt bios. I do agree that it is unlikely.

However, the problems the op has are first and foremost indicative of a blown fuse, which has absolutely nothing to do with the bios. Replace or bridge f1 and f2 depending on what's blown, and go from there. If your bios is corrupted your system will charge and turn on (provided your fuses are fixed), however it won't boot. Still an easy fix, but solve things one step at a time. If your bios is corrupted fixing that first won't fix your fuse problem.

You probably accidentally hit VR1 which is difficult but not impossible to do with a tool that's not insulated well. That typically blows f1.

 

[migles]

Update.

i dont have any experience with electronic components...

so finally i bought the tri wing screwdrivers.... (8.50€ for a set of 4 tri wing and only need 1.... damn local stores...)

i opened the console, and i noticed something... there seems to be oxidation close to f2 fuse.. is this normal? picture annexed

i have some questions, how do i check the fuse with a multimeter? i mean, what option do i choose? i tried the option which makes the "beep" noise when there is contact... in f1 it does buzz but nothing happens when i give f2 a try, so i suppose f2 did blow up...

how can i check vr1? (variable resistor trimmer potentiometer

i also checked the blue and 2w black components which are very close to f2 with the same buzzer thing, but it didn't make anything... can someone tell me how do i check these?

how can i remove the oxidation on the board\components?

later i will ask my friend experienced on electronics to give this a check, but i'd like to research if another stuff needs to be repaired...

 

[migles]

ok, so i asked my friend, and the ds lite is now fixed!

this is what we did.

we tested both fuses and the components close to f2 fuse, the problem was the f2 fuse. my friend didn't have a "slim" soldering iron.. with so tiny components we did have some problems...

there was some resin on the board, which i thought it was oxidation, with a q tip and acetone we successful cleaned the board.

my friend after some tests did noticed the fuse was directly connected to 2w diode.

we didn't have the same fuses (just big ones) we also didn't have a tiny soldering iron and didn't wanted to remove the slot 1 socket and risk damage it...
my friend bridged the fuse and connected with the diode... he said he couldn't made a solder "bubble" above the fuse, the board\components is so tiny he couldn't bridge just the fuse... so, with the fuse bridged to the diode, the console was repaired and worked

i did turned on the console thinking about the bios maybe was erased and i had a surprise, flashme didn't do anything. the console just booted up and prompted the setup!

i asked my friend if he could also bridge the sl1 for use flash me, he said he could make a wire so i could cut it later after i finish.. but since i didn't wanted to risk a loose wire inside the board and have to disassembly it again later i leaved the sl1 alone for that moment...

after assembly the console, set it up and try a game, i tried to use flashme and this time with a flat screwdriver and it worked perfectly fine. (i was in trouble into getting the screwdriver in the right position at 3% xD)

so here is my topic, hopefully someone can find this helpfull later. i didn't post pictures of the work because i already closed the console, but if someone ask i can provide pictures after the job done.
the work took us about 1-2 hours, i dont remember well, because we spent a lot talking but had problems about the tiny stuff; the slot 1 socket and the battery connector were in the way and made it hard... we had several tries and almost damaged the 2w diode...