Hardware DualShock 4 Repair

[PoppaDre]

I picked up a second hand DS4 for $20 and the guy said the trigger was broken (missing). I figured it was just a broken pin on the trigger and an easy fix with a replacement. As i'm taking it apart to clean it up I noticed the circuit film for the left buttons has a tear were it goes to the contact pad for the trigger. I looked at a few on eBay and I was wondering are these a pretty universal part or do the numbers and letter on them have to match up with the numbers and letter on on my circuit 1535 D? Can anyone with experience fixing these help out? Thanks!

 

[OfficialFBomb]

As far as i'm aware, if its just the ribbon cable that is broken then yes you can just use any replacement cable, i have swapped the mobo in a few with out transferring everything.. But maybe a picture or two could help us understand exactly what the issue is.

 

[PoppaDre]

I'm at work now so I will have to use a stock picture from eBay and go by memory when comparing.

The part that is circled in red has been severed on my controller
The number and the dots circled in purple are different on mine too. Mine read "1535" I believe and only have two dots
The letter circled in blue matches in this case as mine is the letter D. However some other cables on eBay show different letters, and I am worried that this maybe a generic stock photo and I will receive something different from china.

Do these differences matter as long as the connection type is the same? Thanks for the quick reply @OfficialFBomb

 

[OfficialFBomb]

Yea I believe the numbers are just like a batch number, in case they have issues with a batch.. As long as the connector, and style is the same then you should in theory have no issues, I guarantee it'll be a Chinese part, it's extremely rare to fine someone selling used or new parts from products.. These parts are just film with a conductive filament the numbers and dots and letters all relate to just product info for Sony when they make them..

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Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/352010594726

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I would check the mobo and it should have a model like the item above came from a JDM-030 model, which should match what you have given then photo you provided

 

[PoppaDre]

Awesome, that's what I was hoping to hear! I'll pick that one up. Didn't think this controller would be such a mess

 

[OfficialFBomb]

I Image the guy opened it not knowing what he was doing and tore the cable, usually they don't break if they have never been opened.. But still 25 for a used controller is not bad at all..

 

[PoppaDre]

Yeah the front cover popped off pretty easy too, pretty much fell off. The kid said he had some rage and that's how the trigger broke. After opening it up though there was quite a bit wrong with it. The battery mount was loose with all the pegs snapped off, and the rumble motor mounts were broken off and rattling around with the wires severed. And the left thumb stick was not returning because the grey piece that covers the pink arm of the L3 button was missing. Was debating cutting my losses since tomorrow sticks go on sale for $50 at bestbuy but I am always looking for a project. So far the costs are:
$20 for the controller
$2 for the replacement left stick
$9 for a full housing/button replacement to replace the broken mount and back
$5 for the circuit

So $36, but if I get it running like new I will have a cool custom translucent green / urban camo DualShock4 for less than a new one. And hopefully have fun doing it. I started making a repair video I'll post to this thread and some before / after pics

 

[PoppaDre]

Got my new left stick in the mail. Installed it but when I removed it i ended up taking some of the pads from the board with it. I managed to bridge the wires for the left/right potentiometer to the ground as an open circuit made the controller always look left. One last connection I need to fix is the L3 button. I managed to bridge the connection from the button to the end of the trace on the top right when looking at the pcb from the back however the controller still registers the L3 button being pressed (open connection) I noticed that when I push on the solder point on the button it bridges the connection and registers the L3 button as not being pressed until it is actually pressed (working correctly). Anyone know why touching the leg of the button with my finger or cause the connection to bridge and fix my problem. Anyone suggest a solution? Thanks!

I have been using the diagram from http://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=43542.0

for the JDM-030 (1-980-146-11) board.