PS1/2 My PS2 Options
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Get a SCPH-5xxxx or lower, and use SATA to IDE adapter along with network adapter. You can use up to 2TB HDD. SSDs are pointless, but SSHDs can reduce boot time from HDD. You can install FMCB to HDD so you do not need a memory card at all. DO NOT USE "Gamestar" adapter as they have some incompatibilities. You can stand the older models on their side to reduce the footprint.
You are correct that you need an existing code execution exploit to install FMCB to another memory card. However, if you have an HDD with already installed FMCB, you do not need a memory card; just plug in the HDD to boot.
You are correct that you need an existing code execution exploit to install FMCB to another memory card. However, if you have an HDD with already installed FMCB, you do not need a memory card; just plug in the HDD to boot.
Last edited by uyjulian,
I second getting a phat model instead - about 12 years ago I swapped out my hardmodded fat PS2 for a Slim because I wanted to save space (I had just bought a Wii, already had a 360 and also wanted to get a PS3), so I know how you feel, but I had nothing but problems with it.
At first it was hardmodded, so I was only playing games from disc, but the laser kept burning out. I found out this was a common problem with Slims, especially the particular version I had (v12 IIRC?), and after I had replaced the laser 2-3 times I gave up and decided to softmod to go disc-less. Softmodding was easy because the hardmod meant I could just install the exploit from a burned disc, but then I added an external USB hard drive only to find out that the USB 1.1 speeds meant slow loading times and the cut scenes not playing properly. In the end it was a complete waste of time and money and only a few years ago, when I felt like playing some PS2 games again, did I get around to softmodding a fat PS2 and adding a HDD/network adapter and internal hard drive, and that seems like the definitive PS2 experience to me.
So basically if you softmod a Slim you would either have to load the exploit from a memory card (which, as you pointed out, become less and less reliable with time), a USB hard drive (pointless, as nothing would really be playable from it) or a hard drive installed via soldering (which would require one of the early Slims that still had the IDE pinouts) which, as you said, is a lot of effort and cosmetically unappealing, unless you go to even more effort and have tools like a 3D printer. So memory card is the only feasible option there, and that would limit you to running things from disc, which would leave you at the mercy of the Slims' unreliable lasers - which are also more and more likely to fail with age.
A fat would be a much better option overall - in the grand scheme of things they're not that much older than the Slims, especially if you get a later version, and they've generally worn a lot better because they had a higher build quality. I didn't have much trouble finding one in really good condition on eBay. You just need to get a network/HDD adapter with it and then you can add a relatively new SATA drive using an IDE to SATA adapter. Once softmodded, you won't need to use the disc drive or memory cards ever again. I understand wanting to save space but the features and performance of a fat vs a Slim more than make up for its larger size.
At first it was hardmodded, so I was only playing games from disc, but the laser kept burning out. I found out this was a common problem with Slims, especially the particular version I had (v12 IIRC?), and after I had replaced the laser 2-3 times I gave up and decided to softmod to go disc-less. Softmodding was easy because the hardmod meant I could just install the exploit from a burned disc, but then I added an external USB hard drive only to find out that the USB 1.1 speeds meant slow loading times and the cut scenes not playing properly. In the end it was a complete waste of time and money and only a few years ago, when I felt like playing some PS2 games again, did I get around to softmodding a fat PS2 and adding a HDD/network adapter and internal hard drive, and that seems like the definitive PS2 experience to me.
So basically if you softmod a Slim you would either have to load the exploit from a memory card (which, as you pointed out, become less and less reliable with time), a USB hard drive (pointless, as nothing would really be playable from it) or a hard drive installed via soldering (which would require one of the early Slims that still had the IDE pinouts) which, as you said, is a lot of effort and cosmetically unappealing, unless you go to even more effort and have tools like a 3D printer. So memory card is the only feasible option there, and that would limit you to running things from disc, which would leave you at the mercy of the Slims' unreliable lasers - which are also more and more likely to fail with age.
A fat would be a much better option overall - in the grand scheme of things they're not that much older than the Slims, especially if you get a later version, and they've generally worn a lot better because they had a higher build quality. I didn't have much trouble finding one in really good condition on eBay. You just need to get a network/HDD adapter with it and then you can add a relatively new SATA drive using an IDE to SATA adapter. Once softmodded, you won't need to use the disc drive or memory cards ever again. I understand wanting to save space but the features and performance of a fat vs a Slim more than make up for its larger size.
700xx (as they have a full network adapter onboard) - 75xxx is the first "Deckard" model with ethernet built into the IOP
FMCB, or a swap disk, or a chip - are your options for running homebrew (or more than one; in fact, if you have a ROM 2.30 9xxxx console, you will need one of the other 2 methods to start FMCB)
It's true that file managers (wLaunchElf) don't care about copy/move protections - but that's not why you can't copy FMCB (or for that matter any MagicGate executable) to another card; they are individually signed for the serial numbers of the memory card
What you certainly can do once you have homebrew is to properly reinstall FMCB from scratch to any number of (MagicGate compatible) cards!
Yes, once you are running FMCB, you can use a file manager and run homebrews from any storage*, and/or reconfigure FMCB to add your favorite homebrews directly to the main menu or hotkeys, as long as those homebrews are stored on memory card or USB
* not all homebrews support being run from all sources; the FMCB installer can in fact run only from the root of an USB drive, while OPL is fairly compatible with at least MC, HDD, and USB supported
Correct, no single method has 100% compatibility
OPL doesn't run discs (by itself), the two main disc loading methods are a chip (which supports clean dumps) or ESR (which requires pre-patched dumps, only supports PS2 software, and requires converting CD games to DVD) - both methods have their independent compatibility lists too
Correct, it's 100% optional to have (in fact a "popular" mod for 700xx consoles is to give them a toploading HDD instead of optical drive)
The laser is the only really consumable part that is not soldered on the motherboard
(console models 5xxxx to 71xxx have the mechacon crash bug, which burnt out quite a few lasers and focus/tracking amplifiers, when the mechacon crashes leaving the focus coils activated at full power, which they aren't designed to be for any number of seconds; this issue is generally associated with hard to read discs, regardless of being originals or not) - but curiously it was fixed very quickly in the following models after class action threats
so, the consoles you want are any 75xxx-77xxx-79xxx plus the old bootrom 9xxxx'es
Protip - check the chassis model (in the bottom right corner of the sticker, you will see some numbers with dashes, one letter, and four letters; the single letter is the chassis - almost every R is a "patched" 9xxxx)
In which case, the models of interest are:
1xxxx - ignore them for gaming, they are PCMCIA models requiring a proprietary external hard drive, and the outdated bootroms of the 10xxx and 15xxx are to date a hassle for homebrew developers
3xxxx except 39xxx - nothing bad to say except the price of spare parts
B chassis 30001 - especially interesting optical drive with auto tilt motor (if you enable the "diagnosis" option) which compensates deformed discs a little
39xxx - loudest fan but otherwise an excellent model, lasers relatively easy to find
5xxxx - slightly flimsier plastic, no firewire, and the mechacon bug may or may not be downsides; but it is quieter and has a builtin remote receiver (including a fairly convenient power button you can't get with the external receivers)
As for the network adapters, definitely do buy an original one (the American 10281 is cheaper and "higher featured" than the European 10350, lol), if you really want SATA add a quality conversion kit like the one from maxdiypower.com, with the current prices of "small" SSDs they may be worth it given the significant number of seek operations caused by having a large amount of partitions
I knew it! That's the model I ended up with and the only problem I had with it was that the fan was so loud. I didn't remember my original fat (which I had before the disastrous Slim) being so loud but thought I was just misremembering. I ended up getting a new fan for it and making a foam mount to absorb vibrations and now it's whisper quiet.
I have one too!
I wanted to turn down the fan speed (the 2 settings for with/without expansion bay accessory are stored in eeprom) but their location is undocumented, so tough luck...
If only we had SP193 here
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OP, if you end up looking for a fat, I have a hacked PS2 with expansion bay and a HDD. I can check the model number + update if you're interested.
Consoles have no way of checking if the optical drive has failed, it's like not being able to read without glasses. Without the glasses you can't see to clearly, but aside from that you're okay
Yes, it will work without a functional disk drive. The only thing to worry about is detaching the network adapter too soon when removing the HDD, after powering off. It puts further strain on the HDD fuses (marked as '50'), but are simple enough to replace with a soldering iron.
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