Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

thesjaakspoiler · Jul 8, 2026

vulp_vibes said:
I have done internal trinket installs for the v1, haven't done any in ages due to the picofly but I quite like them as you can get them down to just the atsamd21 itself and a couple of capacitors. a fun and clean install imo

View attachment 581352
(old image from.. 2019, wow)

This is a piece of art.

ElMeteK · Jul 8, 2026

vulp_vibes said:
I have done internal trinket installs for the v1, haven't done any in ages due to the picofly but I quite like them as you can get them down to just the atsamd21 itself and a couple of capacitors. a fun and clean install imo

View attachment 581352
(old image from.. 2019, wow)

Impressive

Jehmyson · Friday at 9:59 PM

I want to go back to unlocking my son's Switch Lite. I've been following some posts here again and saw that it is possible to connect the PicoFly LED to the Switch, but there are some particular details that I still have doubts about.

In the early days, this forum helped me a lot, and I am eternally grateful for everything I learned from you. The community is practically like a brotherhood, haha.

thesjaakspoiler · Saturday at 12:29 PM

I want to go back to unlocking my son's Switch Lite. I've been following some posts here again and saw that it is possible to connect the PicoFly LED to the Switch, but there are some particular details that I still have doubts about.

The Picofly works on every model but do take care of the details.
Also don't try it unless you are convinced you have the right skill set.
Note that DAT0 adapters might fail after a while so the kamikaze method to make a permanent DAT0 connection is the preferred way.
If you have any doubts/questions, just fire away here.

Nephiel · Saturday at 12:51 PM

thesjaakspoiler said:
The Picofly works on every model but do take care of the details.
Also don't try it unless you are convinced you have the right skill set.
Note that DAT0 adapters might fail after a while so the kamikaze method to make a permanent DAT0 connection is the preferred way.
If you have any doubts/questions, just fire away here.

That's only for OLEDs. On a Lite, DAT0 is exposed, no adapters or Kamikaze method needed. But yes, Picofly works on Lites too.

Jehmyson · 2026-07-20T13:16:42+0100

I’ve already unlocked some V1 and V2 models, but never the OLED or Lite versions. My question is more about the PicoFly LED mod, so that it blinks when powering on and indicates at the front of the device, as shown by user vulp_vibes (by the way, thanks for sharing the knowledge!). I found this feature very functional. From what I understand, I will need an specific LED and a wire to connect the PicoFly point to the VSS on the new LED, replacing the original one. Could I use the LED that comes with the PicoFly itself?

Nephiel · 2026-07-20T13:39:50+0100

Jehmyson said:
Could I use the LED that comes with the PicoFly itself?

You could, but those are hard to remove without damaging them. Also, for the Picofly, LED color is irrelevant, only the blinking pattern matters, so you might as well use a single color LED instead, easier to solder (and you get to choose the color).

Doing that on a Lite is one thing, because the LED is built-in, but for other models, you have to modify both the console and the right joy-con, and IMHO it's just not worth it. You don't really need to see the LED on boot unless the modchip is not working, and even then, the onboard LED is visible through the bottom vents.

Jehmyson · 2026-07-20T14:04:03+0100

Good point, thanks! I’ll think over the pros and cons and then decide...
Afterwards, I’ll post the result if I decide to proceed.

capsulej · 2026-07-21T00:39:21+0100

Is drilling the PCB necessary on the oled switch? I remember in the 360 scene the corona postfix adapters worked just fine to fix a similar issue.

vulp_vibes · 2026-07-21T01:33:49+0100

Jehmyson said:
I’ve already unlocked some V1 and V2 models, but never the OLED or Lite versions. My question is more about the PicoFly LED mod, so that it blinks when powering on and indicates at the front of the device, as shown by user vulp_vibes (by the way, thanks for sharing the knowledge!). I found this feature very functional. From what I understand, I will need an specific LED and a wire to connect the PicoFly point to the VSS on the new LED, replacing the original one. Could I use the LED that comes with the PicoFly itself?

if you have a hot air station to remove it, yes, you can use the existing LED; that is what I did with my RP2040-zero installs. if not reusing it, you will need a ws2812b or sk6812 2020 (2x2mm) led. the line connected from the picofly to the LED is DIN, or the LED data signal line. the existing LED for the lite's home button is removed, and the picofly's LED is soldered in its place, to supply it with 3.3V and repurpose the other pad as a breakout for the DIN connection. an additional wire for VSS (ground) will need to be connected to the LED as well. I will repost the diagram I made for the lite here (though I would now recommend just soldering to the exposed gold areas on the ground plane instead of directly to a component as to avoid potentially damaging them).

I also found this alternative method posted by another user that is non-destructive to the original home button LED and only requires the DIN wire, though it appears to require scratching the solder mask to expose an area of the ground plane.

Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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