Hardware Help diagnosing for DIY repair

[ScrumpyJack]

Its printed on the pcb under the Soc/ram shield.

HAC-CPU-20

 

[Pintglass]

With a battery plugged in plug in the nintendo charger
what voltage do you get on pins 9 and 28 of M92T36 and what voltage do you get on the fuse above the usb port

 

[ScrumpyJack]

With a battery plugged in plug in the nintendo charger
what voltage do you get on pins 9 and 28 of M92T36 and what voltage do you get on the fuse above the usb port

Plugged in charger and battery I get nothing from pin 9 or 28 on M92T36 (both batteries tested)
Around pin 25 I get 0.32v which is the same reading I get from pin 5 on the USB pins

 

[Pintglass]

What about on the fuse what do you get on that

 

[ScrumpyJack]

What about on the fuse what do you get on that

Can you point out the fuse for me?

Also is this a cap? (what i've circled in the pic):

This component is giving me continuity on both sides.
The right side always gives me a continuous chime for continuity and a reading of 1.5Ω
The left side of it gives me a short chime and reads 99.0Ω

Could this be the culprit?

 

[Pintglass]

The fuse is the black component just above the usb port. I think you said you'd tested it for continuity.

Have you looked inside you usb port under some form of magnification to see if the pins are ok.

Yes that's a cap what you've highlighted, when your testing for resistance to ground are you removing the battery and the charging cable.

 

[ScrumpyJack]

The fuse is the black component just above the usb port. I think you said you'd tested it for continuity.

Have you looked inside you usb port under some form of magnification to see if the pins are ok.

Yes that's a cap what you've highlighted, when your testing for resistance to ground are you removing the battery and the charging cable.

Ah rookie mistake - the battery was plugged in which is why that didn't happen the first time when I tested with battery unplugged. I retested all caps without battery and they're all good.

I retested the fuse and it gives continuity when touched from both sides. When the charger and battery is plugged in I get 0.00v on the fuse when touching both sides of it.

I dont have anything to magnify the USBC port for inspection, but it doesn't look broken under a bright headlamp. No pins are broken.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

Thanks for the help so far guys...
Noted about the battery - I wont do that again, but I tested the battery and bought another one - both near 4v and both tested and I got nothing.
Tested all of the capacitors and they're all good
If this the Fuse in the pic?:
View attachment 183210

If so I tested both ends and got continuity from the multi-meter
I dont have the USB draw tester. I did test on the pin when plugged in and had 1.78a but im guessing that just means the USBc pins are good.

Any more advice would be great.

That is a good sign, it means the Switch is successfully fast charging. If something is seriously broken it usually will not enter fast charging and stay around 500mA power draw. Well assuming you measured the power draw correctly, it has to be measured in series with the circuit.
Your battery is probably fine especially if you can leave it for a day without charging and the voltage has not gone down.

 

[Pintglass]

That is a good sign, it means the Switch is successfully fast charging. If something is seriously broken it usually will not enter fast charging and stay around 500mA power draw. Well assuming you measured the power draw correctly, it has to be measured in series with the circuit.
Your battery is probably fine especially if you can leave it for a day without charging and the voltage has not gone down.

His switch can't be charging he's got no voltage coming in.

When your testing the fuse for voltage have you got one probe on ground and testing either side of the fuse.
What voltage do you get on the fuse when you connect the switch to a computer.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

His switch can't be charging he's got no voltage coming in.

When your testing the fuse for voltage have you got one probe on ground and testing either side of the fuse.
What voltage do you get on the fuse when you connect the switch to a computer.

Welp, should have read the rest of the thread then I guess.

 

[ScrumpyJack]

His switch can't be charging he's got no voltage coming in.

When your testing the fuse for voltage have you got one probe on ground and testing either side of the fuse.
What voltage do you get on the fuse when you connect the switch to a computer.

This is odd -
I tested the fuse with the charger plugged both from a grounds on the cpu case as well as from both sides of the fuse (grounds on one side, live on other) and got 0.00v
Then plugged it into computer and got 5.00v running through the fuse.

 

[ScrumpyJack]

His switch can't be charging he's got no voltage coming in.

When your testing the fuse for voltage have you got one probe on ground and testing either side of the fuse.
What voltage do you get on the fuse when you connect the switch to a computer.

This is odd -
I tested the fuse with the usual wall charger plugged both from a grounds on the cpu case as well as from both sides of the fuse (grounds on one side, live on other) and got 0.00v
Then plugged it into computer and got 5.00v running through the fuse.

 

[ScrumpyJack]

His switch can't be charging he's got no voltage coming in.

When your testing the fuse for voltage have you got one probe on ground and testing either side of the fuse.
What voltage do you get on the fuse when you connect the switch to a computer.

This is odd -
I tested the fuse with the usual wall charger plugged both from a grounds on the cpu case as well as from both sides of the fuse (grounds on one side, live on other) and got 0.00v
Then plugged it into computer and got 5.00v running through the fuse.

Oops, sorry for the repeat post

 

[ScrumpyJack]

LIFE!
I think its the official charger.
I plugged in the usb to PC and got the 5.00v, however I knew my main battery was at 2.92v so it probably wasnt enough to get it running. I then plugged in the second battery and got a ping from the PC when i pressed the power button. The switch came to life with no boot.dat (mmc isnt plugged in)
So do you think its in autorcm mode and needs to slow charge the main battery back to life off the PC connection?

 

[The Real Jdbye]

This is odd -
I tested the fuse with the usual wall charger plugged both from a grounds on the cpu case as well as from both sides of the fuse (grounds on one side, live on other) and got 0.00v
Then plugged it into computer and got 5.00v running through the fuse.

It is very possible that your charger has failed. Maybe whatever bricked your Switch took the charger with it.

 

[Pintglass]

LIFE!
I think its the official charger.
I plugged in the usb to PC and got the 5.00v, however I knew my main battery was at 2.92v so it probably wasnt enough to get it running. I then plugged in the second battery and got a ping from the PC when i pressed the power button. The switch came to life with no boot.dat (mmc isnt plugged in)
So do you think its in autorcm mode and needs to slow charge the main battery back to life off the PC connection?

It must be your power supply, try connecting the battery with low voltage then see if it will charge from the pc, it might need 24hrs, put your mmc back in before hand, then when the battery's got enough charge it should boot up.

The fuse isn't connected to ground its just in series on the vbus rail.

 

[ScrumpyJack]

Using the secondary battery I was able to boot the latest hekate version.
I checked the battery stats and the charging status plugged into the PC = 'Not charging" and I see im slowly losing juice on this battery
Trying to boot SXOS will flash the nintendo logo up for a second and then disappear - the nintendo logo comes up and then an error will follow - error 2134-0501.
I turned autoRCM off and it will cycle the nintendo logo followed by the same error.

Just to recap I went from fully functioning 5.0.1 and upgraded to 8.1.0. All worked well for a week, but left it for a couple weeks and came back to it dead (battery discharge). Wouldn't charge, wouldnt boot, no PC connection, no voltage from nintendo charger, but good voltage readings from PC connected USB-C, however still no PC recognition when plugged in.
Got a secondary battery and was able to boot Hekate, but cant get past nintendo logo/error 2134-0501 screen when trying to boot sxos or boot with autoRCM off.

Any advice from this point/ things I can or should do in hekate is much appreciated.

 

[Pintglass]

Any advice from this point/ things I can or should do in hekate is much appreciated

Have you unplugged your charger from the wall socket, if not do that and leave it unplugged for a while.
Using your usb to pc cable plug that in and test with the new battery what voltage do you get from BQ24193 on pin's 1,2,3, and 4, do this by placing one probe on ground(SOC sheild) and then the other probe on the pin read voltage then test the next pin.

How did you upgrade the firmware, was it done in cfw or in horizon?

 

[ScrumpyJack]

Good battery and PC cable pugged in:
Pin 1: 0.07v
Pin 2: 0.00v
Pin 3: 3.60v (same as battery)
Pin 4: 1.80v

I upgraded from CFW 5.0.1 to CFW 8.1.0 using ChoiDujourNX

 

[Pintglass]

What do you get on pins 9 and 28 of m92t36 with the same setup

 

[ScrumpyJack]

What do you get on pins 9 and 28 of m92t36 with the same setup

Pin 9: 5.00v
Pin 28: 0.05v

 

[Pintglass]

I suspect you've got an issue with the M92t36 ic but can't say for sure.
Have you ever used a third party dock?