Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mattytrog

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Ok several problems atm, right joycon not being detected.... and volume + button not working.... I'm thinking there may be flux on the contact for the vol+ so I cleaned it good and I'll give another try... also as for the right joycon issue it could be that the ribbon cable, and ribbon cable latch have issues... or the jumper wire I put down isn't doing it's job... I'll try to get the vol + button working to see if the speaker works... blue is my jumper wire

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Also the right joycon ribbon cable won't even stay in place the latch for the ribbon cables hinge plastic broke on the right side
Send it into clinic if you like!
 

Prime420

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@xstre pwnsx

also as for the right joycon issue it could be that the ribbon cable, and ribbon cable latch have issues!!!
You could check continuity from the ribbon cable latch to the contacts at the joycon rail.

or the jumper wire I put down isn't doing it's job...
Solder like me. It works, trust me ;)

and volume + button not working.... I'm thinking there may be flux on the contact for the vol+ so I cleaned it good and I'll give another try...
You could solder on a alternative vol + solderpad. On the backside of switch maiboard you have testpadcluster G, G4 is testpad for vol +. Solder there.


Switch_Frontside_new.jpg

Switch_Backside_new.jpg
 

jeb101

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@xstre pwnsx



You could solder on a alternative vol + solderpad. On the backside of switch maiboard you have testpadcluster G, G4 is testpad for vol +. Solder there.



View attachment 160972

I have a similar issue, and ripped out a pad by accident, the one after the ribbon connector, so I guess the "distination" trace. Technically I could just bring a wire from that pad / ribbon to the backside G4 correct?
 

jeb101

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@jeb101

Please show us a picture. :)
You can try it or your can check continuity from your broken trace to testpad G4.
Disconnect the battery before you measure.

Finally got a decent picture of the affected area. As you can see with the arrow, the pad is gone. I added a jumper from pin 3 in the header, which from what I can tell is the Vol +, down to the "G4" Vol+ test pad. For some reason though, the volume goes down when pressing +.
7x6na6h.jpg


Edit: After looking closely at this picture, It doesn't seem like pin and wire are touching after all, needs to be thin to not affect the socket, if I can't get a good connection, I may try going off the pad again, but with a 36awg. I just rather not solder onto such small pads with the equipment I have, but will if need be.
 
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Prime420

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@jeb101

You can solder from vol + button to testpad G4, it should work and is easyier. But i don't know if you need the killed resistor (i measured my, it's 150 Ohm) between your lifted pad and the other one. Do you have a voltmeter?

Vol - is testpad E1, i think.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

@sourpickel

I can't post links, so you must search. Look at thread page 4. :D
 
Last edited by Prime420,

living

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I get these screens (hekate) to appear but it does not load anything
in the micro sd I have this:

[atmosfere]
[Nintendo]
[sept]
hbmenu.nro

What escapes me?
thanks
 

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smasha

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I get these screens (hekate) to appear but it does not load anything
in the micro sd I have this:

[atmosfere]
[Nintendo]
[sept]
hbmenu.nro

What escapes me?
thanks

Looks to me you didn't clip in the sd card slot back in properly? No SD card is detected in the switch.

Also you're missing the hekate sleep mode libraries (or could be because your SD card slot is not clipped in properly as well):
https://github.com/CTCaer/hekate/releases

Grab the latest release, and make sure you have the file libsys_lp0.bso in your /bootloader/sys/ directory on your SD card.
 
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xstre pwnsx

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The component in the light green box is missing, I have no clue how it came off, I just noticed it is gone. Any clue what this is, and how I could get a replacement?
upload_2019-3-19_11-3-19.png
 

Sparacis

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Installed the dual strap trinket M0 with the USB disconnect strap in two switches and everything is working perfectly in terms of booting and pushing hekate. However I have 2 weird quirks in behavior that I am not sure if its normal.

1) I can not get into the switchboot flash loader when double pressing the reset button when booting CFW. The trinket M0 changes to a solid Red Led and a flashing red LED but when I plug into a computer nothing is recognized. In order to pull up the folder I need to double press the reset button in Hekate which puts it into the two red light mode, boot into CFW and then it will change to one solid red and a solid green and then the switchboot drive will pull up. Is this normal?

2) When plugging in a charger(no usb data) and the switch is off it autoboots to RCM and stays there while charging until I unplug and then it pushes payload to hekate. Is there any way to avoid this and keep it off completely just while charging? Or is that just the normal behavior?

I REALLY appreciate all your time on this excellent work!
 

mattytrog

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Installed the dual strap trinket M0 with the USB disconnect strap in two switches and everything is working perfectly in terms of booting and pushing hekate. However I have 2 weird quirks in behavior that I am not sure if its normal.

1) I can not get into the switchboot flash loader when double pressing the reset button when booting CFW. The trinket M0 changes to a solid Red Led and a flashing red LED but when I plug into a computer nothing is recognized. In order to pull up the folder I need to double press the reset button in Hekate which puts it into the two red light mode, boot into CFW and then it will change to one solid red and a solid green and then the switchboot drive will pull up. Is this normal?

2) When plugging in a charger(no usb data) and the switch is off it autoboots to RCM and stays there while charging until I unplug and then it pushes payload to hekate. Is there any way to avoid this and keep it off completely just while charging? Or is that just the normal behavior?

I REALLY appreciate all your time on this excellent work!

From another post...

Q - I cannot access SWITCHBOOT drive like I used to. Help!

A - Yep. Known problem. Just get to Switchboot Part 2 menu, double-press RESET so red LED is breathing, plug in USB cable, and boot something (cfw / ofw). SWITCHBOOT will pop up.

Q - But my Emmc is missing / corrupt! How can I boot anything at all?

A - Easy. Just put Sept-primary and sept-secondary in SD root... Double-press RESET, connect USB. Then boot sept from payload menu (SD root). Done.
 

mattytrog

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@mattytrog any con to buying an RCM X86 modchip over the Trinket m0? and any issue with having the chip right under where the battery is?
No. The only major issue is a lack of LED and a proper switch.

If you just want to use my "Fusee-UF2" (elsewhere), it will be fine. If you want to play and experiment, maybe the Trinket M0 offers more toys.

However, the RCMX86 is very compact and easy to fit.
 

Hayato213

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No. The only major issue is a lack of LED and a proper switch.

If you just want to use my "Fusee-UF2" (elsewhere), it will be fine. If you want to play and experiment, maybe the Trinket M0 offers more toys.

However, the RCMX86 is very compact and easy to fit.

Thanks for the information.
 

RetroDude

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hello guys i buyed an modded switch with trinket, everything is running fine. but i dont understand the wirering, it looks not like the desciption here on website. on the left side the 3V ist not connected? and on right side 4 points? is ist right this way?
i add a picture of the installed chip. i have only this picture, the seller sent it to me.

sorry for my english i hope everbody can understand me
 

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mattytrog

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3v or 5v point is fine.

Just hope its not permanently powered as there is no need for it to be.
 

RetroDude

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3v or 5v point is fine.

Just hope its not permanently powered as there is no need for it to be.

so its okay that the 5v is used? the seller tell me the chip its not permanent on. if i shut off my switch after 10 seconds a light is flahing and the chip is off. after that i can press on the chip and nothing happends as far the sitch is off.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

my other switch that i buy from the same seller is look this this:
 

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