Hardware N3DS touchscreen connector replacement (blackscreen) P6?

Cpt. Iglu

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Hi guys,
hope this is the right forum; couldn't find an answer to my question yet, but don't hesitate to tell me if this has already been answered.

I bought a faulty european new 3ds. The previous owner says it fell and hasn't worked since.
It does turn on, the LED is blue but there is no video (black screen).
Opening it up showed that the touchscreen cable (I think that's what it is) was disconnected and that the connector had been tampered with. It's one of those that you shouldn't pry open but instead just slide the cables in and out of.
It's the one right above to the connector for the circle pad, below the wide clamp flex cable connector.
My question is: can I replace this new connector type with the P6 connector from the O3DS / DSi / etc.?
Or if not, can anyone point me into the right direction where I can buy a new one of these no-pry-connectors?

Also, is it possible that the N3DS just won't turn on because the touchscreen cable is disconnected? I read somewhere that the O3DS wouldn't turn on (black screen) if the wireless card was not connected for example. What else could be causing the black screen?

Thanks guys!
 

Cpt. Iglu

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So I found out that the connector is not the problem (guess where I found out? ;) )
Instead the system won't boot if the lower screen is connected. If I disconnect it the system boots.
There is a 'dent' in the flex cable leading to the lower screen, I think that's where the problem lies.
Is it possible to replace or repair this cable or do I have to find a replacement touchscreen?
 

driverdis

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So I found out that the connector is not the problem (guess where I found out? ;) )
Instead the system won't boot if the lower screen is connected. If I disconnect it the system boots.
There is a 'dent' in the flex cable leading to the lower screen, I think that's where the problem lies.
Is it possible to replace or repair this cable or do I have to find a replacement touchscreen?

try wrapping tape around the dent in the flex cable and see if it boots. if not, a replacement touchscreen may be needed as the flex cables are attached to the screen.
 

Cpt. Iglu

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I tried that. Didn't boot.
Is it normal for the 3DS to not boot at all if there is some data from the touchscreen missing (because of one or two broken strands in the cable) but it's fine with booting without the screen connected?
Guess the cable is dead. I can't find any tips on how to repair these tiny flex cables either..
Seems like a waste to replace a perfectly good screen just because of a little break in the flex cable.. Plus I can't seem to find replacement parts for the N3DS (non-XL).

I have one offer for a complete touchscreen but the numbers on the back don't quite match mine (mine is 1820TSS14 0721 and the one of the replacement would be 1820TSS14 1202).
Not sure if it's the right one, the seller says that he has three displays laying around and none of the numbers are identical, they are all different.
Also its 65€ which is more than double what I paid for the 3DS which boots except for the touchscreen (even though I broke the latch that fastens the touchscreen digitizer cable:wacko:).
Is that a good price (since I can't compare because I can't find an alternative so far, but someone here might know more about the prices)

I also considered buying a touchscreen for the XL (because those I can find and they are cheaper) but I think it would be really awkward and hard to make that fit into / onto the 3DS and the calibration with the smaller digitizer would be weird too
 

milerwan

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Hi guys,
hope this is the right forum; couldn't find an answer to my question yet, but don't hesitate to tell me if this has already been answered.

I bought a faulty european new 3ds. The previous owner says it fell and hasn't worked since.
It does turn on, the LED is blue but there is no video (black screen).
Opening it up showed that the touchscreen cable (I think that's what it is) was disconnected and that the connector had been tampered with. It's one of those that you shouldn't pry open but instead just slide the cables in and out of.
It's the one right above to the connector for the circle pad, below the wide clamp flex cable connector.
My question is: can I replace this new connector type with the P6 connector from the O3DS / DSi / etc.?
Or if not, can anyone point me into the right direction where I can buy a new one of these no-pry-connectors?

Also, is it possible that the N3DS just won't turn on because the touchscreen cable is disconnected? I read somewhere that the O3DS wouldn't turn on (black screen) if the wireless card was not connected for example. What else could be causing the black screen?

Thanks guys!
Picture please.
 

Cpt. Iglu

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http://postimg.org/image/67ak32dm3/

RED: broken connector I wanted to replace with P6 but I won't because it's not the probem
BLUE: broke the latch off but it still works right now, will have to think of something to fix it
ORANGE: dent / puncture in the touchscreen flexcable

Is it relatively straightforward to detach the digitizer from the display and attach it to the new display?
 
Last edited by Cpt. Iglu,

MAXLEMPIRA

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http://postimg.org/image/67ak32dm3/

RED: broken connector I wanted to replace with P6 but I won't because it's not the probem
BLUE: broke the latch off but it still works right now, will have to think of something to fix it
ORANGE: dent / puncture in the touchscreen flexcable

Is it relatively straightforward to detach the digitizer from the display and attach it to the new display?

that piece in Red isn't the same as the blue one, and the flexor seems to be ok

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

you need to slide the flexor inside the piece and that all
 
Last edited by MAXLEMPIRA,

Cpt. Iglu

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I never said they were the same..
The one in red was broken when I got it and I thought that's why the 3DS wasn't booting, but it turns out that the flex cable is the problem.

It may look fine but it's not. When it's plugged in the system will stay in 'blue light but nothing happens' mode. If I disconnect it the system boots but obviously the bottom display won't show anything.
Backlight works and the digitizer seems to work because I get feedback when I touch it.

The one in blue is a latch-conector, the same type that connects the circle pad. I broke of the grey latch part but it still works if I push the cable under the pins deep enough.
I will have to find a way to fix the connector in red and the connector in blue.
But the cable in orange is punctured and I can't find a position in which it will work. I think it may be too small for me to solder jumpers in there, I would probably break more than I would fix.
Since an XL lower display costs about 25€ and my only lead on a non-xl bottom display is 65€ I think I may have to wait until another defective comes along..what do you guys think?
 

milerwan

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http://postimg.org/image/67ak32dm3/

RED: broken connector I wanted to replace with P6 but I won't because it's not the probem
BLUE: broke the latch off but it still works right now, will have to think of something to fix it
ORANGE: dent / puncture in the touchscreen flexcable

Is it relatively straightforward to detach the digitizer from the display and attach it to the new display?
RED / Lower LCD power connector : Don't remove the connector, it can still work if you know how to create pressure (if you don't know, I know). Be careful to not break it because this model of connector is unavailable !
BLUE / Touch screen connector : If it works, it is better not to touch it. Otherwise it is possible to replace it with the same connector model.
ORANGE / Lower LCD screen ribbon : This type of puncture is inconsequential.
 
Last edited by milerwan,

Cpt. Iglu

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RED / Lower LCD power connector : Don't remove the connector, it can still work if you know how to create pressure (if you don't know, I know). Be careful to not break it because this model of connector is unavailable !
Sorry if I sound forward but: Did you read my posts before? I started the thread because I wanted to know weather I can replace it, turns out I can't but I won't have to because it still works..

ORANGE / Lower LCD screen ribbon : This type of puncture is inconsequential.
Then how come my system won't boot when this ribbon cable is inserted correctly? The puncture cut one or two of the pathways in the cable, how can it be inconsequential?
There must be some dataflow there, why else would nintendo have put that cable there with so many pathways?
This may very well be the reason for the system not booting. Any other ideas are welcome but I do think that this is the problem.
 

milerwan

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Sorry if I sound forward but: Did you read my posts before? I started the thread because I wanted to know weather I can replace it, turns out I can't but I won't have to because it still works..
As previously written, this model of connector is unavailable.
You can't replace it by touch screen connector.

Then how come my system won't boot when this ribbon cable is inserted correctly? The puncture cut one or two of the pathways in the cable, how can it be inconsequential?
If the tracks are cutted you must replace the lower LCD screen.
 

Cpt. Iglu

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It turns out those connectors are available but not easily purchasable in numbers below the 100s (so far).
They CAN be replaced but usually don't have to be and I guess it's not recommended without a good bit of soldering experience and a rework station (doubt it works with a soldering iron without scorching the plastic on the new connector right away)

If the tracks are cutted you must replace the lower LCD screen.
...well yes..that's what this was all about.
I have had two replacement bottom lcds here and both of them worked more or less but were defective themselves so I had to send them back.
Right now I'm waiting for another replacement which will hopefully work.

In the meantime I am replacing the grey latch on the digitizer-cable-connector because it came of, I MIGHT replace the connector for the backlight (which is the same as the microphone, home-button and another which I can't quite grasp what it does (something else from the bottom screen iirc)) and I'll install a hardmod to have a NAND backup just in case.
 

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