Hardware nand flash dump (3ds xl)

[bbbibi31]

hello,
I broke the CMD point on my 3dsXL, do you know an alternative point for a 3DS XL.
thank you in advance.
excuse me for my English.

 

[gamesquest1]

hello,
I broke the CMD point on my 3dsXL, do you know an alternative point for a 3DS XL.
thank you in advance.
excuse me for my English.

i dont know of any other points for CMD......you could try fixing it to the trace, but i imagine if you ripped the pad you probably wouldn't handle that too well either

 

[bbbibi31]

i dont know of any other points for CMD......you could try fixing it to the trace, but i imagine if you ripped the pad you probably wouldn't handle that too well either

the trace is broken too

 

[gamesquest1]

the trace is broken too

the whole trace ....welll idk then did you just rip the whole thing off........ps if you remove the epoxy around the nand there might be a little bit left under there

 

[bbbibi31]

hello,
do you think the CMD point is it really useful ??
A +

 

[gamesquest1]

hello,
do you think the CMD point is it really useful ??
A +

if you want to do the nand mod yeah, but if you have given up on the idea, the burnt pad shouldn't cause any issues with the 3ds itself

 

[DryTaste]

I'm gonna attempt to mod my XL soon, i have a fair bit of SMT-soldering experience. But i keep reading about people ripping the pads. How can you rip those pads of a pcb? I don't understand, if i'm right you just apply some kapton, paste and wires and melt the paste with some hot air. Am i missing something?

 

[Squirrel61]

You're missing two things. Some people overheat the pads, which loosens the bond that holds them to the PCB, or even already gets them completely loose. The other problem is that some people use solid wire which can cause mechanical stress on the pads and even rip them off when they're not overheated. Kynar wires usually are OK, but you have to fix them to the motherboard to make sure that the end of the wire can't move and pull the pads.

 

[DryTaste]

You're missing two things. Some people overheat the pads, which loosens the bond that holds them to the PCB, or even already gets them completely loose. The other problem is that some people use solid wire which can cause mechanical stress on the pads and even rip them off when they're not overheated. Kynar wires usually are OK, but you have to fix them to the motherboard to make sure that the end of the wire can't move and pull the pads.

Thanks for the reply, but those things are pretty obvious. But if i'm using soldering paste and very thin wire (i have some from a shady chinese webshop, works great)and hot air at 150 °c. And mask the PCB with kapton i shouldn't encounter any problems right?

 

[gamesquest1]

Thanks for the reply, but those things are pretty obvious. But if i'm using soldering paste and very thin wire (i have some from a shady chinese webshop, works great)and hot air at 150 °c. And mask the PCB with kapton i shouldn't encounter any problems right?

use a soldering iron

 

[DryTaste]

use a soldering iron

Hmm, i have a weller (adjustable temp) lying around. Any specific reason to not use hot air? (also, any recommended flux/solder brands to use?)

 

[gamesquest1]

Hmm, i have a weller (adjustable temp) lying around. Any specific reason to not use hot air? (also, any recommended flux/solder brands to use?)

simply using a soldering iron is much easier and less likely to damage something else by blasting the whole thing with hot air......while you *might* be able to do it, i couldn't really imagine anyone having much success trying to get all 4 solder points attached properly with something so indirect, just normal electronics flux and normal solder, im sure there will be better brands but any old stuff will do as long as your not using stuff designed for welding pipes

 

[Deleted-355425]

What are you trying to remove or rework? I work in smt and through hole for a living

 

[DryTaste]

simply using a soldering iron is much easier and less likely to damage something else by blasting the whole thing with hot air......while you *might* be able to do it, i couldn't really imagine anyone having much success trying to get all 4 solder points attached properly with something so indirect, just normal electronics flux and normal solder, im sure there will be better brands but any old stuff will do as long as your not using stuff designed for welding pipes

Thanks for the help, i have a couple of 3DS lying around (i sell them in the netherlands) I will try one with hot air and with a soldering iron, will post results when i succeed

edit:

What are you trying to remove or rework? I work in smt and through hole for a living

Just add some very thin wires to the 3DS PCB and a small circuit board (that i don't have to use the SD adapter). I will post some photos when i'm done ^^

 

[Deleted-355425]

Are you trying to solder them to a pad or a lead? Or cut into a track to join it there?

 

[gamesquest1]

Are you trying to solder them to a pad or a lead? Or cut into a track to join it there?

its pads

 

[Deleted-355425]

Just get a flux pen and Cover the pad, tin the flying lead and get your iron around 350-400, add solder to the pad then re heat it and add the flying lead in, speed is your friend.. Or your solder will turn to porridge.

 

[DryTaste]

Are you trying to solder them to a pad or a lead? Or cut into a track to join it there?

to a pad, my original plan was to cut some holes trough kapton tape and mask them. Then apply some solder paste and wire and heat them up for about a second with my hot air gun at 150 degrees celcius. But according to gamesquest1 its easier to use a soldering iron

 

[Deleted-355425]

Solder melts at around 220 lead for leaded.

 

[DryTaste]

Solder melts at around 220 lead for leaded.

I see, that means that my weller is super inaccurate ^^''
But thanks for the help guys. I'm gonna try it next week