Hardware nand flash dump (3ds xl)

[groit]

Ok dif topic, ill start research. Thank you.

 

[olfa]

hello

2 little questions
1. anyone knowing a good source for spare parts (need L/R button cables)
2.anonye played with microsub mod can tell
me if it's possible that if cable is too long, you get blue screen just by connecting male mcirousb 2 sdcard cable ?

 

[gamesquest1]

you should only get bsod when cable is connected to sd reader, you probably have a short in the SD adaptor if its only when the usb is plugged in

 

[Joe88]

1. anyone knowing a good source for spare parts (need L/R button cables)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Left-Right-...g_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item20de68c90a

 

[olfa]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Left-Right-...g_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item20de68c90a

thanks
anyone knows if it s the same cables (and same length for 3ds and 3ds xl ? )

 

[gamesquest1]

thanks
anyone knows if it s the same cables (and same length for 3ds and 3ds xl ? )

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Left-Right-...g_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item20de68c90a

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Left-Righ...G_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item3cd91fa6a7

i would say different

 

[SpaceJump]

What is the name of the wires used for this? Preferably in German

 

[misterb98]

Going to start my second attempt at this (edit: after work), now that I have a good iron and tip. My new plan is to put hot glue on the nearby chips, so If I slip I get a small period of time before something goes flying (I don't want to somehow miss the pin and desolder the resistor array again...) I think the soldering iron would melt the glue rather quickly, but it should be enough to not screw up the resistor, right?

Basically, I'm probably going to cover the sensitive components near the NAND pinout with hot glue so I can't desolder them quickly on accident.

The reason why I'm asking this is I'm wondering if there is some reason I shouldn't do this. Primarily, I'm wondering if the resistor arrays would get hot enough to melt the hot glue and cause problems.

 

[gamesquest1]

you really shouldnt have a problem with the XL, if you do you should get some more practice in first

btw did you get the resistors fixed or just got a different 3ds?

 

[misterb98]

you really shouldnt have a problem with the XL, if you do you should get some more practice in first

btw did you get the resistors fixed or just got a different 3ds?

It was conveniently two days after my birthday and even more conveniently my siblings hadn't gotten me anything. As a result, I got a 4.2U board (by itself) off of eBay (they got it for ~$60).

Much cheaper than a new XL

 

[gamesquest1]

practice on the old one then........or give it to someone to fix

 

[misterb98]

practice on the old one then........or give it to someone to fix

I plan to. However, I still would like to know if those resistors get hot at all. Does anyone know?

 

[gamesquest1]

no they would really get hot at all, but i seriously suggest you just enjoy your ds and dont worry about soldering unless there is something you NEED to solder for

 

[misterb98]

no they would really get hot at all, but i seriously suggest you just enjoy your ds and dont worry about soldering unless there is something you NEED to solder for

"No they would"? Is that "yes they would" or "no they wouldn't"?

As for soldering, I would like the ability to unbrick my 3ds XL, as I need region free (and I don't own a Gateway, so using region-free ROMs isn't an option. Right now Im just using emuNAND classic @ v7.1 to play games while I wait, but I don't trust gateway to not give me a brick chance.)

 

[gamesquest1]

lol soz "no they wouldn't"

also you should of looked for a motherboard of the region you wanted to play games from XD

i would recommend you wait for 2.0 final and see if they include the region free patch for classic mode, hopefully they make the brick code more secure or just remove it, have you though of sendig it off to someone to fit the usb mod instead so you don't have to risk damaging it with soldering, you might be able to find someone who will take the broken motherboard as payment as they could fix it up and sell it on for more than the parts cost for your mod

 

[misterb98]

lol soz "no they wouldn't"

also you should of looked for a motherboard of the region you wanted to play games from XD

I plan to play most of my games from the US.

However, my mother was on a trip to Europe and brought home a copy of A Link Between Worlds. From Germany.
Obviously, this is region locked. However, it is not easy to resell in the US (where nobody can play it). And there exists the possibility of region free (making me not want to go re-buy the game in the US)
It also doesn't help that I am studying Japanese ATM, and may want to import some games from there in the future.

Result: I want to play my existing US games, but also this EU game, and any JPN games I may get later.

 

[Elusivo]

JAP is demeaning for japanese, correct is JPN.
If ur worried about too much heat on the surrounding smds then just cover them with some kapton tape. If u can't get it easily then i would think even normal insulation tape would be better than messy hot glue @@.

 

[misterb98]

JAP is demeaning for japanese, correct is JPN.
If ur worried about too much heat on the surrounding smds then just cover them with some kapton tape. If u can't get it easily then i would think even normal insulation tape would be better than messy hot glue @@.

Thanks. I didn't do my research on the shortening of the regions, I thought it was NA, EU/PAL, JAP, KOR.

Any idea why it is demeaning?

 

[jinnpan]

The problem might be you are using a 30 Watt or higher Iron. Use a 12-22 Watt iron for this mod

 

[misterb98]

The problem might be you are using a 30 Watt or higher Iron. Use a 12-22 Watt iron for this mod

I have a variable tempurature iron now. I was going to go at 620w, but should I go lower? 60/40 rosin lead solder is what I am using.

edit: whoops! Meant 620 degrees F. LOL