Hacking Hardware Switch not booting past Nintendo Logo after Modchip

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Momokin

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Hello People , i tried to Mod my Switch Oled , semi successfully but it just wont boot anymore and wont go Past the Nintendo Logo. i noticed after taking it apart (and trying for a Dat0 Adapter that i failed so i just did the Kamikaze method instead), that the console didnt boot past Nintendo Logo and showing me Low Battery icon right after. i thought maybe after all is done it may work again so i kept going with the Picofly. Even after finishing everything and getting the Golden " No SD CARD" i just wont boot to anything . i prepared a working Sd card with hekate (even tried the full HATS zip ) i wont boot into hekate. as soon as it detects the payload its will just show me Black screen. tried just putting in a empty sd card and the picofly would say "no Payload detected". what could have gone wrong here ?? i was thinking about reflowing the emmc but i dont know if that even would make a difference or if my problems even have anything to do with that? Also tried charging it the night but no difference , i even tried it with a known working full battery , still the same .
 

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Start with a clean card. Get a copy of Hekate from GitHub and put only that on the card. See if it will boot into Hekate. If not find out what error the chip is reporting as something is not right with the install.
 
Start with a clean card. Get a copy of Hekate from GitHub and put only that on the card. See if it will boot into Hekate. If not find out what error the chip is reporting as something is not right with the install.
update it booted into hetake and i looked into some infos and it shows me fuel gauge ic info : everything 0 mah ?
 
Last edited by Momokin,
SHOW the cpu area around by removing the metal sheild, you might have cut trace around the clk point(like yellow mark arae in picture)
1748468372221.png
 
SHOW the cpu area around by removing the metal sheild, you might have cut trace around the clk point(like yellow mark arae in picture)
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SHOW the cpu area around by removing the metal sheild, you might have cut trace around the clk point(like yellow mark arae in picture)
View attachment 507395
found the culprit i think , is that enough to kill it ?
 

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Last edited by Momokin,
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found the culprit i think , is that enough to kill it ?
clearly fuel gauge max17050 broken and those 2 missing cap on CPU left would lead to no wifi or hang on 2nd boot logo in the future.
 
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clearly fuel gauge max17050 broken and those 2 missing cap on CPU left would lead to no wifi or hang on 2nd boot logo in the future.
Sorry for the bad quality pictures but if u refering to the two caps on the Picture img_2552 they are infact doing good and chillin just were they suppose to :D cause of the bad quality they look missing. I already ordered a new 17050 chip. do you think the smd on the right with the 05 on it needs a replace ? also any tips on how to get the old one of the board without destroying the surrounding ? i have a heatgun suppose to have a 300 celcius mode and a 500 celcius mode, i bought a v1 board just to have some stuff that i could use and i noticed they use the same fuel gauge ic , but i butchered the chip because it wouldnt come off even with 500 celcius , probably also killed it anyway cause of the heat itself,
 
Sorry for the bad quality pictures but if u refering to the two caps on the Picture img_2552 they are infact doing good and chillin just were they suppose to :D cause of the bad quality they look missing. I already ordered a new 17050 chip. do you think the smd on the right with the 05 on it needs a replace ? also any tips on how to get the old one of the board without destroying the surrounding ? i have a heatgun suppose to have a 300 celcius mode and a 500 celcius mode, i bought a v1 board just to have some stuff that i could use and i noticed they use the same fuel gauge ic , but i butchered the chip because it wouldnt come off even with 500 celcius , probably also killed it anyway cause of the heat itself,
the 05 mohm resistor should be fine just top coating broken. Fuel gauge is BGA-9 type but should not take that much heat to take off (usually around 360C with little flux ). I guess it would be recommend to get help from phone repair shop or find someone more exp on hot air station BGA/microsoldering in order to minimize further damage on this OLED board.
 
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for future reference cause i read somwhere that one guy named SheriffBuck said the Switch wont even boot at all without a Fuel Gauge IC, ill have to refute that cause i was able to start the switch of the usb port without the battery into hetake and nintendo logo.
 
for future reference cause i read somwhere that one guy named SheriffBuck said the Switch wont even boot at all without a Fuel Gauge IC, ill have to refute that cause i was able to start the switch of the usb port without the battery into hetake and nintendo logo.
did you see home screen or stuck on Nintendo logo?
 
did you see home screen or stuck on Nintendo logo?
still only nintendo Logo i guess the fuel gauge ic was partially working and now that i removed it , it only boots off usb cable but wont boot with battery only , since it doesnt detect a battery anymore .
 
got the chip today but to my bad luck that one small smd between the 05 ohm and the bga chip flew away when i was reflowing the bga chip :(:((( you know what kind of smd that is ?
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did you see home screen or stuck on Nintendo logo?
got the chip today but to my bad luck that one small smd between the 05 ohm and the bga chip flew away when i was reflowing the bga chip :(:((( you know what kind of smd that is ? and is there a component on the v1 so i can replace it with ?
 
Last edited by Momokin,

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