Things you have fixed/modded recently

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Trying to see if I can make my analog sticks on my controller, to respond more faster, by putting a tiny bit of oil on it. Whatcha think guys?
Is it sticky? Clean it with IPA if it's dirty inside, just move it around while removing dirt with a q-tip etc. You could apply some white grease to it after you're done cleaning it, or some Vaseline if you don't have any.
There's also 2 square shaped plastic parts you could open and clean, on the sides of the of the analog stick, be careful opening them as they could break easily, watch a YT a vid on how to open them, only do this if the 1st method didn't fix it..
Unfortunately if the analog stick can't be centered in place, means those 2 round pieces that control the axis are worn or broken, you can't do anything about it if they're damaged other than replacing them (which requires soldering)..
 
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Trying to see if I can make my analog sticks on my controller, to respond more faster, by putting a tiny bit of oil on it. Whatcha think guys?
Might work for a bit. I've noticed that when WD40 gets old, it breaks down and becomes a bit tacky. Maybe 3in1, after the IPA treatment airs out, would be better. I'd use that. It seems better suited form small, mechanical machines.
 
I have a modern TV, Fridge, Toaster, PC, dildo.. That's about it.

Oh! And a blender!
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Trying to see if I can make my analog sticks on my controller, to respond more faster, by putting a tiny bit of oil on it. Whatcha think guys?
No.
Depends on the manufacturer. Usually the deadzone of an analog stick is programed in-game sensitivity settings. So changing the settings in-game might solve this.

Another thing is that 3rd party controllers with "analog sticks" (notice quotes) aren't analog at all but digital (less parts, much cheaper) so the slightest move is read as going from 0 to 100 (in a way of speaking) so you can get one and see if the analog stick works literally improperly. Might be what you're looking for.

Another possibility, is that new analog sticks stopped using potentiometers but relies in "magnetism" (is more like difference in *voltage) to sense when a stick has moved.
These sticks has carbon printed "potentiometers" (notice quotes since they acts like one but are not potentiometers in reality) and they offers resistance in *voltage changes which translates to "stick is moving to x/y direction"... if your controller has this kind of "potentiometers" then yes, lubricating with oil might actually do a difference, but you'll have to disassemble your controller, then disassemble the stick, manually lube the "potentiometer" and put back everything together.
 
Last edited by JuanMena,
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A quick search on the topic yielded me with no results.

So I'm curious to see what you guys have recently repaired or modded.

If you repaired something it would be interesting to know how it broke and what you did to fix it.
And if you modded something it would be nice to know how it was done and what your final thoughts are.

Pictures is always great and if possible, please do upload at least one.

It doesn't have to be a gaming device, but preferably something electronic.

I at the moment don't have anything going on, but I'll post something soon.
i repaired a computer, it broke itself after like 3 days...

i also went to my old house, i found two ds lites, both of them not turning on, one of them charging
 
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How long can you drive it on one full battery charge, just curious? Is dope AF tho, I'm jelly! :grog:
Not sure. I’ve been riding it off and on. Also playing with the settings. I reset the ODO. Scooters of a similar build have 20-40 mile range, but there lots of hills in my area. I’d say closer to 25 miles. Finally got it in a good running condition. The seat with the backrest weighs about twice the wideass seat, so I don’t use it much. Also, I like standing better.
 
I fixed my ssd since it was recognised in the bios as SATAFIRM S11 and you couldn't even mount it in windows. Had to flash the firmware in order to get it working again. Problem was, I had windows when the ssd died, so now I didn't have a way to install windows since I didn't make a flashed usb, I had some micro sd cards and a multi adapter that worked as a usb drive that has also an usb c on the other end, used my phone to try to make a linux usb but the app I was using, etchdroid, wasn't copying all the files on the drive, tried to manually copy the files and linux installation booted but since I couldn't give the usb a label it wouldn't continue with the install. Long story short I managet to get windows 10 on usb and installed it on the hdd I have, every boot was like 4 minutes long, after that flashed the ssd firmware, windows install again and all back to normal (spent 2 days on all of this)
 
Replaced the cable on an old MacBook Air power supply. Just soldering two wires, not an exciting job (the most challenging part was snapping the case back together :rofl: ), but I did finally get to try out my nice new soldering station, so that made me happy.
Apple has the least user serviceable devices. They are little bitches for that.

Good job on you fixing that. You know, if you brought that into the “Genius Bar”, they will find that there is now app to fix it and you’d have to purchase a new one.
 
So back in December I posted in the GBA section how the original shell in the area around the L hinge on one of my AGS-101's had cracked and crumbled on me. I bought a replacement shell from Extremerate, their flat black "soft touch" version. When I started the re-shell job, I discovered one of the shoulder buttons microswitches was all gooshed out. No affirmative "push" to it, no springy. Maybe it was working marginally, I don't know. But it wasn't right, so everything was put on hold. Got some replacement microswitches off Amazon, got out the soldering gear, and now with new shoulder switches and a new shell, she's back in service. The Extremerate shell is very nice (but I didn't use their screws). You may notice they do not include a counterfeit Nintendo logo on the lid as most do. I prefer that since it is a replacement, but something to consider if you're looking for an SP shell.

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Replaced the cable on an old MacBook Air power supply. Just soldering two wires, not an exciting job (the most challenging part was snapping the case back together :rofl: ), but I did finally get to try out my nice new soldering station, so that made me happy.

What did you get, Dave?
 
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