Hardware nand flash dump (3ds xl)

Ray Lewis

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Lol, as I read this, I find myself excited. It is "Something." Words of wisdom; low heat, little time...flux is your friend, multimeter is very useful (necessity), and a magnifying glass will reveal a LOT. Beware of moving anything, beware of where you set your work down (or mount), and follow the "path." Glad somebody fixed their issue. Tiny bits of solder in the area you are working with will usually be the culprit unless you "lift" another part. ANOTHER idea; splatters. Sometimes you might think all is well, go to move your soldering iron, and then a little bit splats somewhere. A SLIVER, smallest amount, will give you goofy errors. This is awesome work guys. Sharing is caring, good hunting;-)

Edit: don't be too proud or impatient to go over your pcb and literally go systematically over it with the magnifying glass. There are different types/sizes. Have fun, and 99% is repairable if you do make a mistake. ALSO, those are some TINY points. I HIGHLY recommend taking some old pcb (from a dvd drive that is broken, or other electronic device that is broken) and practice. OR, find a friend or somebody who is experienced. I can always see it, "Can this be fixed?" threads/posts on here with pictures of burns, lifted components, solder covering multiple components, etc. Be smart, NOT impatient.
 

Adr990

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Heya,

I've just dumped my NAND on my original launch day 3DS.
I seem to have a bit of problem getting it to work properly again:

Before I dumped the NAND I ofcourse checked if my 3DS would still work with the hot plug soldered to the CLK, CMD, GND and D0.
When I turned it on, the bottom screen seemed to go into 24 bit mode (darker) after a little time it turns on. I tried to fix that by replugging the cables, but no luck so far..

Anyhow, I proceeded to dump my NAND by plugging the hotplug onto the SD Card reader, and turned the 3DS on, and got a blue screen.
After a few seconds it popped up, and I dumped it a few times, seemed to be ok.

Now I unplugged the hot plug, and turned it on again.. it still gives me a blue screen. (same code)
Nothing is intercepting the nand now, so I don't see why it does that.

Anything I missed?
 

hashcheck1

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Heya,

I've just dumped my NAND on my original launch day 3DS.
I seem to have a bit of problem getting it to work properly again:

Before I dumped the NAND I ofcourse checked if my 3DS would still work with the hot plug soldered to the CLK, CMD, GND and D0.
When I turned it on, the bottom screen seemed to go into 24 bit mode (darker) after a little time it turns on. I tried to fix that by replugging the cables, but no luck so far..

Anyhow, I proceeded to dump my NAND by plugging the hotplug onto the SD Card reader, and turned the 3DS on, and got a blue screen.
After a few seconds it popped up, and I dumped it a few times, seemed to be ok.

Now I unplugged the hot plug, and turned it on again.. it still gives me a blue screen. (same code)
Nothing is intercepting the nand now, so I don't see why it does that.

Anything I missed?


My old 2.2 Aqua did that its something todo with the CLK signal point. I ended up scrapping that one for parts as i have 2XLs already.
the old 3DS boards do not like to much heat and you need 15w & lots of Flux (FLux Pen)
 

Adr990

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I used flux, and didn't put the iron on it for longer then I should. No problem there.
The screen problem actually didn't happen until I tried to screw the thing back together.

I also can't dump the nand anymore it seems..
 

hashcheck1

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I used flux, and didn't put the iron on it for longer then I should. No problem there.
The screen problem actually didn't happen until I tried to screw the thing back together.

I also can't dump the nand anymore it seems..


Hmmm not sure sorry but my Aqua 3ds also would only dump nand but not write to it as it kept saying it was Read Protected. I make Snes Repros Carts so i am more the capable of this smaller solding job.
i think the 3DS Aqua etc are more pron to trace burning and my error was more related to the CLK point as i used the top point on the PCB, when powered 3ds cant see the NAND
 

Adr990

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Also, some pics:

2013-08-13%252005.05.49.jpg

(^
Don't worry, I did put tape underneath the wire too.
;)
)
2013-08-13%252005.35.30.jpg

2013-08-13%252020.23.20.jpg

2013-08-13%252022.50.40.jpg

2013-08-13%252022.51.28.jpg

2013-08-13%252022.54.40.jpg

I did dump it 3 times the first time.
Then I turned it off, and then on again, and dumped it 3 times again.

The dumps were ok.
 

hashcheck1

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Can someone test if you can transfer games to a second 3ds and then restore your nand back to the original 3ds and have two copies of the games?

Thats a interesting question hmmm

Can someone test if you can transfer games to a second 3ds and then restore your nand back to the original 3ds and have two copies of the games?

Thats a interesting question hmmm
 

Pedeadstrian

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Can someone test if you can transfer games to a second 3ds and then restore your nand back to the original 3ds and have two copies of the games?
It doesn't work that way. Games are stored on the SD card, so dumping the NAND won't let you have an infinite amount of games.

At least I think. This thread is too full of technojargle for me, but I believe I'm right.
 

3DSGuy

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Can someone test if you can transfer games to a second 3ds and then restore your nand back to the original 3ds and have two copies of the games?
That might work, but you probably won't be able to re-download any of the software on the original 3DS. And you probably won't be able to transfer those games from the original 3DS again. On the bright side, both units will have the same moveable.sed file, so you'll be able to share SD savedata and extdata between the two 3DSs.
 

hashcheck1

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I might try this as i have a 5th 3DSXL White on pre-order will dump nand on current unit with all software and do transfer to new white unit. Then clone SDCARD of original and flash my NAND Backup on OLD XL after transfer
 
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Riku

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Good thought but it's not feasible with just 2 unused pins of the sd slot.
Actually there's two GND pins (#4 and #6) which tied together, you can cut one of them and SD card still will work.

For example: DAT0 to pin #9, CLK to pin #8, CMD to cutted pin #4, GND to pin #6. SD card still will work, and when you want to read/write nand just use modded microSD adapter. I think it may be safe having DAT0 or CMD tied to GND (considering pins 4 and 6 also tied together inside SD card).
 

Gonzo

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Actually there's two GND pins (#4 and #6) which tied together, you can cut one of them and SD card still will work.

If we assume that every SD-card has such a bridge inside, it will work this way.
I have little doubts about that...
 

lightenup

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I think it may be safe having DAT0 or CMD tied to GND (considering pins 4 and 6 also tied together inside SD card).
No, can't work. the SoC cannot communicate with the flash if either CMD, DAT0 or CLK is tied to GND. All those signals are essential for emmc-type flash communication...
 

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