Yeah aslong as you extracted it using the emunand tool it will be in the correct format to flash directly yo the nand
ok this is what i have left to work with , i got the epoxy off and i think i should have enough of the traces to work with fingers crossed
D
Deleted User
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Good lord that's brutal. Was shipped to you like that? Looks like someone used a high watt soldering iron to that thing.
yeah received like that, dont like to let a good board die so giving it a shot
on a side note, someone messed up the resistor array a while back and didnt know the value's....thanks to my new camera you can see them
....they might of binned the board by now tho
yeah received like that, dont like to let a good board die so giving it a shot
on a side note, someone messed up the resistor array a while back and didnt know the value's....thanks to my new camera you can see them
gamesquest1, I'm really an amateur at soldering, my soldering jobs are usually really ugly but they are solid.
I'm hoping that you could clarify something for me after I watched some youtube videos on proper soldering methods. So if I were to solder a wire to the points on the board, I first press the wire to the contact point and then the soldering iron on top of the wire (which is on top and in contact with with contact-point), then I apply solder to a side of the contact point that is current being heated.
tbh, some jobs need different methods, with really small (easy to burn with too much heat) points i usually try apply some solder to the wire first, then press the wire to the point and let the solder from the wire bond to the pad, as long as you don't damage stuff and get a good connection some people use completely different methods, but if you have a big pad to work i usually apply solder to the pad then place the wire on and let the solder melt around the wire.
im sure some people swear by different techniques, but that's how i do it generally
also there is other stuff like flux etc but for basic beginner soldering you shouldn't be doing really small or delicate soldering, or things like this may happen
its all down to practice, just don't jump in the deep end start with easier stuff and build up gradually
PS, im not claiming to be a super elite master at soldering I myself am still learning little tricks and stuff, it really is down to practice and experience
im sure some people swear by different techniques, but that's how i do it generally
also there is other stuff like flux etc but for basic beginner soldering you shouldn't be doing really small or delicate soldering, or things like this may happen
its all down to practice, just don't jump in the deep end start with easier stuff and build up gradually
PS, im not claiming to be a super elite master at soldering I myself am still learning little tricks and stuff, it really is down to practice and experience
anyone know what the error code 0000000022 is about, i managed to get the nand soldered up, unlocked the nand successfully, but its still BSOD
Im really bloody determined now after getting the nand unlock
Edit: just seen i double posted soz staff, and also i have life
now issue number 2....the broken analogue stick connector.....
.....but that can wait i'm going to bed
Im really bloody determined now after getting the nand unlock
Edit: just seen i double posted soz staff, and also i have life
now issue number 2....the broken analogue stick connector.....
.....but that can wait i'm going to bed 
So a while back I made this post in this thread about the possibility of embedding an actual card reader inside of the 3DS XL, mainly in response to the dangers of people using a USB port for physical connection when it is not actually USB. By the looks of it though, it seems that people were not really intersted in that post.
Anyways, I managed to actually get around to doing exactly that. This way I can connect my 3ds directly to my computer with just a standard microUSB-to-USB cable, just like a smartphone would and use win32diskimager on it, with a switch to select either normal 3DS operation or NAND flash/restore mode (no need for any custom cables anymore)
Here is one of my pictures of the mod I did (in spoiler tag due to size):
I have more pictures and details, but not sure if I should post them here or just make a new thread about what I did. Which would be better?
Anyways, I managed to actually get around to doing exactly that. This way I can connect my 3ds directly to my computer with just a standard microUSB-to-USB cable, just like a smartphone would and use win32diskimager on it, with a switch to select either normal 3DS operation or NAND flash/restore mode (no need for any custom cables anymore)
Here is one of my pictures of the mod I did (in spoiler tag due to size):
So a while back I made this post in this thread about the possibility of embedding an actual card reader inside of the 3DS XL, mainly in response to the dangers of people using a USB port for physical connection when it is not actually USB. By the looks of it though, it seems that people were not really intersted in that post.
Anyways, I managed to actually get around to doing exactly that. This way I can connect my 3ds directly to my computer with just a standard microUSB-to-USB cable, just like a smartphone would and use win32diskimager on it, with a switch to select either normal 3DS operation or NAND flash/restore mode (no need for any custom cables anymore)
Here is one of my pictures of the mod I did (in spoiler tag due to size):
I have more pictures and details, but not sure if I should post them here or just make a new thread about what I did. Which would be better?
So wait what now?
UPDATE: I think I get it now. The Connection points are directly connected to the mini card reader (this replaces the step of having a custom cable which causes the 3ds to be detected by the PC as a SD card). The reader is then connected to a micro usb port which for all intents and purposes acts as a usb cable extension. Afterwards you can connect any old regular micro usb cable because the thing you are connecting to your PC is not the 3ds set directly but rather a usb card reader (that is reading the 3ds nand already). Holy crap on a cracker, just when I thought the original micro usb cable solution was neat. Yours is... clean.
The one thing I still don't understand is how did you incorporate the switch and what's the purpose anyway? Could you elaborate on your new thread? Also, some connection diagrams would be nice.
I believe that making a new thread would be better, you're doing something different. Would be a shame if it got lost in here.
Yeah, that is pretty much it; I wanted it to be clean and proper like that, making it safer in regards to what is connected to it, and also easier to use.
As for the switch(es), they are needed since the card reader's signals interfere with the 3ds's ones, which causes the blue bootscreen when it is connected for reading/writing.
And yeah, I think I will make a new thread, it does seem to be the better chioce.
As for the switch(es), they are needed since the card reader's signals interfere with the 3ds's ones, which causes the blue bootscreen when it is connected for reading/writing.
And yeah, I think I will make a new thread, it does seem to be the better chioce.
Nice, i also have a mini board like that that i was thinking of putting internally too, but i ended up not doing it for 2 reasons, 1 is that i din wanna solder anything in the 3ds, and 2 cause then it cannot be unbricked with raspi in case it's needed.
But it's cool like that xD why u used the extra dat lines? more speed?
But it's cool like that xD why u used the extra dat lines? more speed?
I believe you still can unbrick it with raspberry pi. The pi will just simply detect a usb card reader and the unbrick program should still work.
Elusivo
Yeah, if I ever happen to brick, I can just open the 3DS back up and solder a connection to my Raspberry Pi. But other than that, I can just leaved it closed up nicely. I doubt I will actually brick often enough to permanently expose an SD connection for the Pi (unless I was bricking it intentionally for some reason anyway )
As for the extra DAT lines, since the reader was to stay in there instead of being removed when done, I decided that I might as well connect them, only a few extra wires anyway, and it is indeed faster. About 16/17 MB/s read speed compared to about 5 MB/s I was normally getting with the older method with only the DAT0 line connected.
lambstone
You can?
I have never needed to unbrick before, but AFAIK the Raspberry Pi unbricking software by bkifft worked by accessing the NAND via the SD slot, using low-level SD commands to be able to do what it does... or am I incorrect here?
Yeah, if I ever happen to brick, I can just open the 3DS back up and solder a connection to my Raspberry Pi. But other than that, I can just leaved it closed up nicely. I doubt I will actually brick often enough to permanently expose an SD connection for the Pi (unless I was bricking it intentionally for some reason anyway
)As for the extra DAT lines, since the reader was to stay in there instead of being removed when done, I decided that I might as well connect them, only a few extra wires anyway, and it is indeed faster. About 16/17 MB/s read speed compared to about 5 MB/s I was normally getting with the older method with only the DAT0 line connected.
lambstone
You can?
I have never needed to unbrick before, but AFAIK the Raspberry Pi unbricking software by bkifft worked by accessing the NAND via the SD slot, using low-level SD commands to be able to do what it does... or am I incorrect here?
Sorry, but no cigar. Same reason why a Pi (or any other microcontroller) is needed in the first place: USB readers are an abstraction layer that don't let pass through low level SD/eMMC commands needed for the unbrick.
But unless one is a bricking addict (I'm looking at you, gamesquest1 ,) I judge that solution cleaner too, especially as this way noone can fry the eMMC on accident by hooking it up to USB directly.
edit: ninjad!
You get that elusive cigar.
Lol, not quite 20... with my method I get around 17MB/s read speed, and around 12MB/s write speed. But yeah, old method I got about 5MB/s speed, I think it was for both read and write, cannot remember.
as long as it works i would say not to worry too much , i think the lengths/quality of the cables can effect the R/W speeds, i dont think anyone would really be reading and writing the nand often enough for slow speeds to be much of an issue....except if its really really slow, like 6 hours to write
but average time to flash is usually about 5-10 mins with the old 4 wire setup
, i think the lengths/quality of the cables can effect the R/W speeds, i dont think anyone would really be reading and writing the nand often enough for slow speeds to be much of an issue....except if its really really slow, like 6 hours to write but average time to flash is usually about 5-10 mins with the old 4 wire setup
Like the brickophile already said: signal quality is one of the main influences on speed (right after the number of used data lines). You could also try another SD2USB reader, some of the cheap ones also use real cheap (and thus again slower) controllers.
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