Wii U black screen blinking blue light

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Misnomer

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My 32GB Wii U is not turning on properly. It used to work a couple years ago but then it stopped working. When I plugged it in recently it showed me a red light, but then when I turned it on, the blue light was on for a couple of seconds until it blinked once and went to a yellow light, at the same time the disk drive made a whirl sound aswell. When i tried to put a disk in, it seemed to eject normally, and I am also able to use QuickStart to boot up the Wii U, but the Wii U continues to blink blue once then go yellow while the disk drive makes noise, I also have no CFW installed aswell. I did research on the problem but for my certain situation I don’t understand exactly what’s the problem. Would really appreciate it if someone can help me with this problem
 
Blinking blue once is normal, that is done by boot1.
Yellow means eco mode.
Whap happens if you remove power for a minute and then turn it on with the power button on the console?
 
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@SDIO i decided to look into this issue again since there is a new exploit. So as you said i had removed the power for a minute and turn on with the power button on the console and it’s still giving me the same issue
 
what happens if you press the power button again, when it is yellow?
Else you could use Paid the Beak to install isfshax and dump the logs. Maybe we see something there
 
I did try to press the power button again when it was yellow, it went blue but for about 10 secs more than it would turning it on with a red light, and then it blinked once and went yellow again.

I also tried paid the beak but for some reason everything that I’d described in my last reply had occurred like normal when I turned on the console pressing a jumper cable to tp73, so I’m not too sure what happened.
 
There might be something wrong with the RTC, making the console believe it was woken up by the timer and therefore go to echo mode.
If the RTC is bad, PTB won't work, since the unstable pwr is also part of the RTC.
 
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Probably replacing it.
You could try defusing to see if the RTC is really the problem and what it reads
 

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