Switch OLED modchip indicating red light

[Slowline]

Hey guys,
a week ago, my modded OLED switch started to show a red light indicating a connection problem, which probably relates to DAT0.
I've opened up the console to see a not so greatly done install job by my local installer (it shop).
I myself don't own any tools, nor do I have micro soldering skills to fix this on my own.
Because I'm not really trusting these guys again to fix that, I wanted to ask here if someone reputable, ideally from Germany, would be up for commission to fix this for me.
I know for a fact that they installed the DAT0 Adapter without reballing the entire chip, they used the method where you just put the adapter underneath and solder it to the solder point

 

[randy_w]

You can check with a multimeter first, see if you get around 0.7V on point C in diode mode.

Since you paid for their service, I'd say just take it back and ask them to finish the job properly. You don't really need a reball, just ask them to reflow the emmc chip, that should securely connect the adapter to the solder ball.

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

I know for a fact that they installed the DAT0 Adapter without reballing the entire chip, they used the method where you just put the adapter underneath and solder it to the solder point

That is pretty common these days and not something to worry about.
The red light usually means a back connection in some of the cables or solder points.
But if you had it done by a shop, just ask them to have a look.

 

[Slowline]

You can check with a multimeter first, see if you get around 0.7V on point C in diode mode.

Since you paid for their service, I'd say just take it back and ask them to finish the job properly. You don't really need a reball, just ask them to reflow the emmc chip, that should securely connect the adapter to the solder ball.

That is pretty common these days and not something to worry about.
The red light usually means a back connection in some of the cables or solder points.
But if you had it done by a shop, just ask them to have a look.

Thanks for your replies. I can't get a reading from C and B. D is 0.843 and A is 0.572 which are fine. I'll try to contact them, but these wires seem way too fiddly, wouldn't a thicker wire be better? I think the AWG36 commonly used on the board are thicker, or am i wrong?

 

[randy_w]

I can't get a reading from C and B

Apparently point C/DAT0 adapter is loose. Point B seems normal, voltage drop is very high (mine is around 3V) so depending on your multimeter it might show as open circuit.