Do i need a certain drive to read the xbox360 games? Will i have to open up the xbox360? Do i have to order a satachip set online?
Anything else i should know.
Anything else i should know.
Gaming Some Questions bout modding
- Thread starter xDarkElement
- Start date
- Views 1,901
- Replies 5
Read as in make isos then kind of; the last few iextreme firmwares have been able to take normal drives and make dumping drives (indeed if you have a drive from a junk xbox you can probably use that instead as a full time dumping drive but the stock drive will be set in dumping mode if you power the drive tray half closed). You can still get the so called kreon drives and there is a nice guide on that sort of thing in the FAQ at the top of the forum section.
The vast majority of people do not bother with it though and just download games instead.
Open the 360: yes but it is easy enough. You will need a set of torx screwdrivers to get the drive out.
Your motherboard may already sport a compatible chipset, read textbook's guide for more on that http://360mods.net/index.php?name=Download...tails&id=61 , if you do not know what you have use CPUZ
You can find them offline but they are getting on in terms of age but they are only about $10 anyhow (they are big name devices so you can go to regular online stores).
If you buy a 360 today there is still a very good chance you will end up with a 7 series liteon- every other drive can be flashed with just a sata cable and the tools to open the xbox but the liteon needs a special device. You can buy it (several models including the xecutor CK3 and xtractor* or build it: http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=668247
*be warned there are two components to such a device; the drive power section and the probe itself. The drive power thing works for all models while the probe is an addon that usually comes by itself. The whole kit will cost about $45 (price of a new game). The homemade one will cost about $5 (or free if you rip apart a dead electronics device) but will need a serial port where the purchased ones will work over USB.
We have lots of threads on the subject in this section but post back if you have more questions.
The vast majority of people do not bother with it though and just download games instead.
Open the 360: yes but it is easy enough. You will need a set of torx screwdrivers to get the drive out.
Your motherboard may already sport a compatible chipset, read textbook's guide for more on that http://360mods.net/index.php?name=Download...tails&id=61 , if you do not know what you have use CPUZ
You can find them offline but they are getting on in terms of age but they are only about $10 anyhow (they are big name devices so you can go to regular online stores).
If you buy a 360 today there is still a very good chance you will end up with a 7 series liteon- every other drive can be flashed with just a sata cable and the tools to open the xbox but the liteon needs a special device. You can buy it (several models including the xecutor CK3 and xtractor* or build it: http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=668247
*be warned there are two components to such a device; the drive power section and the probe itself. The drive power thing works for all models while the probe is an addon that usually comes by itself. The whole kit will cost about $45 (price of a new game). The homemade one will cost about $5 (or free if you rip apart a dead electronics device) but will need a serial port where the purchased ones will work over USB.
We have lots of threads on the subject in this section but post back if you have more questions.
Thanks Armadillo I need to get back on top of things it seems. Just to clarify this is a new version of the 8 series liteon (there were at least some 8 series liteons that could be hacked)?
Yep new version of it. http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=692490, seems to mostly coming from service centres, but a few people have them in retail boxes. Annoying thing is, it looks the same, still has the same firmware version (83850c), it just won't dump the key.
From what I can tell, all of the retail units they're having problems with were manufactured on August 12 or after (console manufacture date). Drive manufacture date is apparently irrelevant, the change seems to coincide with the date of assembly, which makes sense as that's when the drives get locked to their motherboards. This means it's probably not a change in firmware (unless they're flashing them on-the-fly, which IS a possibility), but the encryption key used to encrypt the drive key. In other words, I'm suggesting there's no firmware change because the firmware supports layered encryption similar to the scheme used in Blu-Ray. The decrypted drive key being obtained by somehow mixing the encryption key with the encrypted drive key using an algorithm that doesn't change. Find the algorithm, and it's all over.
If you want to get one you can be sure will flash, make sure it was manufactured in July and does not come with 2 games. You'll probably be fine if you find one from May or June but the further back you go the higher your risk of getting a 7 series drive (and therefore having to order a probe). The chance of a 7 being in a July console are extremely slim. I bought an elite with a July 31 MFG date and was able to flash it fine (I put Talismoon replacement fans in as well since I had the case open anyway, it's a Jasper, but better air circulation never hurts). So far there are no reports of a console that was manufactured in July that could not be flashed (though there are plenty of reports about drives from July in consoles manufactured on or after August 12 not flashing). And as you just read, mine was made on the last day of the month and still worked. There are some reports of August consoles made prior to the 12th (some from August 5 for example) working, but it's best to play it safe. Don't panic if you don't find one at Wal-Mart. Pick a place that draws smaller crowds like K-Mart, Best Buy, or Toys R Us. You'll find there's plenty of July units still on shelves.
For the record, I used a via 6421 card, JungleFlasher 1.6.6, and iXtreme 1.6 firmware. I highly recommend JF. If you follow the instructions in the PDF it's nearly foolproof. And that's what you want considering one missed or improperly performed step could turn your console into a doorstop. If you're using a 64-bit version of Windows, you'll need to reboot and pick your 32-bit Windows from your boot manager (what I did), start a VM that's running a 32-bit Windows, or make a Bart's PE stick drive using a 32-bit Windows disc. You really do want to use JF unless you're extremely comfortable with the DOS prompt (I am and I still went with JF).
If you want to get one you can be sure will flash, make sure it was manufactured in July and does not come with 2 games. You'll probably be fine if you find one from May or June but the further back you go the higher your risk of getting a 7 series drive (and therefore having to order a probe). The chance of a 7 being in a July console are extremely slim. I bought an elite with a July 31 MFG date and was able to flash it fine (I put Talismoon replacement fans in as well since I had the case open anyway, it's a Jasper, but better air circulation never hurts). So far there are no reports of a console that was manufactured in July that could not be flashed (though there are plenty of reports about drives from July in consoles manufactured on or after August 12 not flashing). And as you just read, mine was made on the last day of the month and still worked. There are some reports of August consoles made prior to the 12th (some from August 5 for example) working, but it's best to play it safe. Don't panic if you don't find one at Wal-Mart. Pick a place that draws smaller crowds like K-Mart, Best Buy, or Toys R Us. You'll find there's plenty of July units still on shelves.
For the record, I used a via 6421 card, JungleFlasher 1.6.6, and iXtreme 1.6 firmware. I highly recommend JF. If you follow the instructions in the PDF it's nearly foolproof. And that's what you want considering one missed or improperly performed step could turn your console into a doorstop. If you're using a 64-bit version of Windows, you'll need to reboot and pick your 32-bit Windows from your boot manager (what I did), start a VM that's running a 32-bit Windows, or make a Bart's PE stick drive using a 32-bit Windows disc. You really do want to use JF unless you're extremely comfortable with the DOS prompt (I am and I still went with JF).
Similar threads
