Hacking Shell replacement aftermath

[DJ Hobo]

Ok, so like many other DS Lite owners, I had a cracked hinge. I used the gbatemp.net disassembly/reassembly guide. The DS, with a new shell, is now in one piece. However, the system won't turn on. At first, it would switch on for a split-second, and then not turn on at all. Now, however, it's just unresponsive.

I know there are lots of guides out there (including the one at gbatemp) that say to "check" the flexible cables. However, what exactly does that mean? There's only one that has to be disconnected in the shell replacement process, and I swear that it looks connected.. So.. can anyone help?

 

[DJ Hobo]

*bump*

 

[EpicPie]

Are you sure you didn't accidentally rip or cut a wire?

 

[DJ Hobo]

Are you sure you didn't accidentally rip or cut a wire?

If you're referring to the mic and wi-fi wires, then I'm absolutely sure that they aren't rip/cut.

 

[jos7960]

The connection cable that connects the upper half to the lower half. You probably didn't put it in far enough. Really push it in.

I had the same problem. I was too careful with the cable and didn't want to put too much pressure on it, but you have to!

 

[Kingfield]

what jos said.

 

[DJ Hobo]

The connection cable that connects the upper half to the lower half. You probably didn't put it in far enough. Really push it in.

I had the same problem. I was too careful with the cable and didn't want to put too much pressure on it, but you have to!

How odd.. it seems as if no matter how much I try, it's just not going to go in far enough.. Is it normal to think that?

 

[DJ Hobo]

Ok, after a little messing around, I've finally got the flexible ribbon cable thing (the one that connects the top to the bottom) all the way in. I know for sure that it's definitely all the way in this time because it's identical to the pics on the guide. However, the DS still isn't switching on. Are there any other known causes of a DS not turning on after a shell replacement?

 

[Silent Storm]

Oh dear, I really don't want to scare you but I think the cable is damaged, and when it gets damaged then it won't work again.

I did a shell replacement before, I saw some tiny mini dents, but after trying everything, I couldn't get it to work, I was extra careful also.

New screens don't cost much though, if you decide to get a new screen, then I would advise getting somebody else to replace it.

 

[DJ Hobo]

Oh dear, I really don't want to scare you but I think the cable is damaged, and when it gets damaged then it won't work again.

I did a shell replacement before, I saw some tiny mini dents, but after trying everything, I couldn't get it to work, I was extra careful also.

New screens don't cost much though, if you decide to get a new screen, then I would advise getting somebody else to replace it.

Hmmmm.... is there any way I can tell that the cables are damaged beyond repair? The cable that I disconnected definitely doesn't look damaged... How "damaged" does it have to be to officially be damaged?

 

[Scorpei]

Oh dear, I really don't want to scare you but I think the cable is damaged, and when it gets damaged then it won't work again.

I did a shell replacement before, I saw some tiny mini dents, but after trying everything, I couldn't get it to work, I was extra careful also.

New screens don't cost much though, if you decide to get a new screen, then I would advise getting somebody else to replace it.

Hmmmm.... is there any way I can tell that the cables are damaged beyond repair? The cable that I disconnected definitely doesn't look damaged... How "damaged" does it have to be to officially be damaged?

Somewhere inside the cable one thread could be broken without you really noticing. You could check with a multimeter (assuming both sides are bare metal at some point).

 

[DJ Hobo]

Somewhere inside the cable one thread could be broken without you really noticing. You could check with a multimeter (assuming both sides are bare metal at some point).

What exactly am I checking for, with the multimeter?

 

[Kittymat]

To clear this up

You say the DS is non responsive - if you have damaged the ribbon cable then the green (or red if its low on charge) light will come on, after 2-3 seconds one of the screens will flash and the unit will go off. If this is happening then the screen that flashes is OK - the other one is faulty and needs replacing (or reconnect the cable).

If it is completely non responsive (i.e. no light comes on) then it is not the screen, you have managed to blow the fuse F2 on the board, this is a surface mount fuse (very tiny) it is located next to the silver NDS slot (put the board with the silver NDS slot facing you and to the top) The fuse is on the right hand side towards the bottom of the slot (F2 is marked on the board)

Take your multimeter select the buzzer and put it each side of the fuse - no bleep its dead.

You can get replacement fuses off eBay - but you do need considerable soldering skills to change it. You can bridge it with solder - however the next fault on the DS could leave you with a pocket of molten plastic so always try to get it replaced.

 

[DJ Hobo]

Hmmm... this is interesting...

You say the DS is non responsive - if you have damaged the ribbon cable then the green (or red if its low on charge) light will come on, after 2-3 seconds one of the screens will flash and the unit will go off.
This is what happened the first few times I tried switching it on.

QUOTE(Kittymat @ Mar 17 2009, 01:39 AM) If it is completely non responsive (i.e. no light comes on)

This is now what happens when I try to turn the DS on. However, I've noticed that, although the DS is unresponsive when the power switch is pushed, a light does appear for a split second when put on charge.