PS5 2 sec. Blue Light, then turn off

[h_abi123]

Hello, I'm having the familiar blue light of death issue with my PS5 with disc. I disassembled it and tested it. I noticed something was wrong with the HDMI transmitter. I ordered a new one and replaced it. I don't have any ground faults in that area now, but it still won't boot. When I measured it a second time, I discovered two caps on the 5V line that are outputting incorrect values and have a ground fault. One cap is on F3501 and one is directly on the opposite side of the board. I've now desoldered the caps and wanted to replace them, but does anyone know which caps they are? And could that really be the cause? I couldn't find anything else. Thanks.

 

[stetofix]

The cap is 10µF X6S 0603 20% 16V

The chip is the 12V switch for the USB C front connector if 12V are required.
If this cap is shorting this line to ground, the cause should be solved by replacing this cap.

 

[h_abi123]

could this also be the cause of the Blue light of death

And is it also common for there to be a ground fault on the back? there is also a cap with ground fault. Is there the same cap type?

 

[stetofix]

The cap is on the same line and has the same value. On this side of the board the chip is the 5V switch for the same line to the front connector. Depending on the USB C device, the 5V or 12V switch chip is activated.

 

[h_abi123]

ok,

The cap is on the same line and has the same value. On this side of the board the chip is the 5V switch for the same line to the front connector. Depending on the USB C device, the 5V or 12V switch chip is activated.

ok, so i buy this caps 10µF X6S 0603 20% 16V, fix it and maybe it works? but why 16v caps? many thx to you

Post automatically merged: Jul 22, 2025

ok,

The cap is on the same line and has the same value. On this side of the board the chip is the 5V switch for the same line to the front connector. Depending on the USB C device, the 5V or 12V switch chip is activated.

ok, so i buy this caps 10µF X6S 0603 20% 16V, fix it and maybe it works? but why 16v caps? many thx to you

 

[stetofix]

If one of the both caps is the cause of the short, the problem should be solved.
The short should be gone, if the bad cap is removed. The cap is not needed for testing. But should be replaced for normal use.

Typical steps for voltage ratings are: 2.5V 4V 6.3V 10V 16V 25V 35V 50V...
You choose in most cases the rating above your expected voltage. 12V > 10V, next is 16V rating

 

[h_abi123]

If one of the both caps is the cause of the short, the problem should be solved.
The short should be gone, if the bad cap is removed. The cap is not needed for testing. But should be replaced for normal use.

Typical steps for voltage ratings are: 2.5V 4V 6.3V 10V 16V 25V 35V 50V...
You choose in most cases the rating above your expected voltage. 12V > 10V, next is 16V rating

oh perfect. many thx. Also i can remove the two caps and can start the PS5 ? And if it starts, i put new caps there to use the usb c port, right?

 

[stetofix]

It is unusual that both caps are bad. There are more caps, resistors, three chips and a diode on this line, which could be bad.
If you inject 1V, you should see what is getting hot on this line.

 

[h_abi123]

It is unusual that both caps are bad. There are more caps, resistors, three chips and a diode on this line, which could be bad.
If you inject 1V, you should see what is getting hot on this line.

ok. also i put 1volt on plus from the mainboard? How many Amper?
you think its a chip not a cap. i have removed three caps, the line is offline, can i start ps5 ?

 

[stetofix]

I would start with 1V and 1A. In most cases I use 1V and 3A.
If something is lighting up or getting hot there is no need for guessing if it is a chip or a cap which cause the short.

The main goal is to get ridd of the short on that line.