Picofly rp2040 installed on a V2 switch, get to no sd card screen, but cant boot from SD or into OFW

[DeltaDan]

You mean it won't turn on at all?

If an sd card isnt in, it flashes like this and goes to the "no sd card" screen. But if one Is in, but empty, I get "failed to load payload.bin" BUT if the sd card has files and a payload.bin... nothing. But they all flash the same way

Post automatically merged: Oct 22, 2025

You mean it won't turn on at all?

This is what currently happens:


No SD card, picofly flashes like in the video, and posts "no sd card"

SD card slotted in, but no payload: i get the screen "failed to load payload.bin"

SD card slotted in, but with files, no payload: black screen (also happens with a payload)

 

[CMDreamer]

Have you tested your SD card against corruption?

 

[DeltaDan]

Have you tested your SD card against corruption?

Yes, I used the SD card on my v1 switch with an RCM jig and loading the payload

 

[CMDreamer]

Yes, I used the SD card on my v1 switch with an RCM jig and loading the payload

That doesn't answer my question.

 

[DeltaDan]

That doesn't answer my question.

How else can I answer it? It boots into Hekate when that SD card is put into my v1 switch, and the payload is launched through tegrarcm

Post automatically merged: Oct 23, 2025

Ive discovered the issue, I somehow managed to scratch a trace on the ram, probably when taking off the shield.

 

[CMDreamer]

[...]

Ive discovered the issue, I somehow managed to scratch a trace on the ram, probably when taking off the shield. View attachment 535059

Did you used a metal spudger? Bad idea.

Now try fixing the trace and test it again.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

How else can I answer it? It boots into Hekate when that SD card is put into my v1 switch, and the payload is launched through tegrarcm

Post automatically merged: Oct 23, 2025

Ive discovered the issue, I somehow managed to scratch a trace on the ram, probably when taking off the shield. View attachment 535059

Looks fixable. Good luck

 

[DeltaDan]

Did you used a metal spudger? Bad idea.

Now try fixing the trace and test it again.

I used a needle to pop it open, I didnt think I went that deep with though. But im ordering a better soldering kit and a magnifying camera (im surprised i got this far with the tools i had) so i can fix the traces. I think I saw somewhere someone used the fine wire you get in headphone wires to bridge.

 

[Nephiel]

I think I saw somewhere someone used the fine wire you get in headphone wires to bridge.

Don't, they're enameled wires but usually braided with some kind of twine for strength and it's a pain to solder. Get magnet wire instead. The coil windings on old speakers or AC transformers is a good source if you're not too concerned about the gauge.

 

[CMDreamer]

I used a needle to pop it open, I didnt think I went that deep with though. But im ordering a better soldering kit and a magnifying camera (im surprised i got this far with the tools i had) so i can fix the traces. I think I saw somewhere someone used the fine wire you get in headphone wires to bridge.

Don't use headphones wire, they're not the best option.

Don't, they're enameled wires but usually braided with some kind of twine for strength and it's a pain to solder. Get magnet wire instead. The coil windings on old speakers or AC transformers is a good source if you're not too concerned about the gauge.

He should be concerned about the gauge in this case as the traces are very small and he has a diminute area to solder them properly.

One thing he shouldn't forget is using flux, it will make things "easier". Also a good soldering iron and tip, that's properly tinned and of the proper size for the job.

 

[DeltaDan]

An update:

Thank you to everyone who commented to help me figure out what was going on.

I tested the switch by trying to run payloads, I figured if i could get into Lockpick or Hekate or something, I could fix the NAND, but the only payload that would run was UMS. Which specifically says that it can be used when the main RAM has failed. After realising this I did some more investigations.

After cleaning away the stray thermal paste I saw this mark that wouldn't go away, and its next to the hole that holds onto the metal shield, and I used a needs to pop it off, putting two and two together I realised I scratched 2-3 traces when taking the shield off. Rookie mistake

Bought a microscopic camera just for this occasion, and confirmed that yes I did indeed scratch the ram traces, hence the blue screen.


With the needle I scratched the traces with (ironic) I scratched some more of the traces exposing more of the traces so I could bridge it using solder. Doing this exposes that the first (bottom) trace was 100% cut, 2nd had a deep cut, didnt seem to be a broken bridge but I exposed it anyway, and the 3rd one was barely scratched, but to stay on the safe side I exposed that one further.

And with a lot of patience...

I managed to bridge the ram traces, adequately enough that they make a connection again.

Holding down the VOL + - before I press the power button and....

We have the Nintendo logo, confirming that its now booting into OFW. And now also boots into hekate without issue when booting. The issue all along was severed ram traces, thankfully something within the realm of repairing, so long as you have the right tools, i.e the cheapest soldering iron with a 1mm tip and a usb microscope camera.

So what did i learn from this?

• TRY not to use a needle when taking off the shield, if you have a plastic spudger use that, or even a plastic pointy object if you do want to pry up the metal clips holding the shield down.
• Double, triple, quadruple, quintuple check the motherboard for any scratches or missing resistors/capacitors before you jump the gun that its broken, I very almost bought a v1 motherboard to replace in this, when it can be as simple as fixing traces.
• Clean any splattered thermal paste, I used a toothbrush and isopropyl and it splattered everywhere, and this scratch mark blended in, took me a week to notice this.
• And above all, be careful, you're working with micro components, tiny traces and components. They'll easily come off

But all in all, the Picofly rp2040 was surprisingly easy to install. I used a chunky old soldering ironhead to connecct to the cpu capacitors, no solder flux, or microscopic lense, if I didnt break the ram traces it would've been a first try modchip installation.