OLED switch HWFLY 4.1 "lite" chip install

[RotatoR]

I'm going to be installing the latest lite chip in the OLED (it's what I have currently, I have an extra and don't want to repurchase the core). It came with flex cables for the OLED. I've watched their install video, which isn't the best. I just want to clarify a couple of details before I jump in.

HWFLY 4.1 OLED install video

1. In the video they use the 34awg magnet wire on the dat0 and rst points on the mainboard. Later they show soldering the rst wire to the chip but skip the dat0. I'm assuming the dat0 is also soldered to the chip itself opposite side of the 4 solder points where the rst is? As in on the chip the pads are dat0, cmd, clk, rst?

2. When they install the clk/cmd flex cable to the chip @ 2:46, It looks as if the solder points are bridging both sides of the resistors #2 and #3 but the first is left alone. Is this important or they just skipped #1 as it's not relevant? Also on that u cable (clk/cmd) they wet the "C" point on it. Is this possibly an alternate point for the dat0 wire and forgot to show it? Not sure why they were wetting it and never went back to that point.

3. They sent 3 different dat0 adapters. I will be reflowing it with a low melt solder. Any specific reason why there are three included. I get the smaller corner version would be to avoid cutting the metal to fit. Why are there 2 of the larger? Just spare?

4. Finally, I have pre-flashed the chip with the latest 0.7.1 firmware. I'm assuming that this will correct the 5 volt issue with the OLED?

For reference, after searching around I found this image of the chip and cables I have

Any guidance is appreciated. I'll also come back with some install pics afterwards (just because).

 

[RotatoR]

Guess I'll just go for it tomorrow. What is the worst that could happen.

 

[randy_w]

1. No matter what chip you are using, you need to connect same 4 wires: A/CMD, B/RST, C/DAT0 and D/CLK (and 3.3V/GND of course).

2. Seems like the ribbon cable also has a part next to J1 that needs to be soldered to the chip.. You can verify the connection with a multimeter first, usually these filtering caps are connected in parallel so you don't need to solder to every single one of them.

3. If you are doing a friction fit you better use the full width adapter as it has 2 anchor points and is more secure. Since you are reflowing the chip it doesn't really matter, but usually I use the corner adapter since it's easier to work with.

4. That bug has been fixed in spacecraft 0.2.0. Even with older unflashable chips affected by that bug people tend to say different things, but yes it's fixed.

P.S. Try not to use this adapter as it puts stress on your fragile A and D points. They used to include this adapter with unflashable V3 chip and it won't align properly. Connect it to the modchip and use multimeter to find alt points, then solder to the modchip directly instead.

 

[RotatoR]

Thanks for the info. I'll probably just skip the flex board and wire it instead. My previous experiences has been with non-oled models. I'll post back later with my results.

 

[RotatoR]

Install went good, just wired all points and skipped the flex boards. Seems to take 10-15 seconds each boot, but I'll take it. Props to anyone doing this without a nice scope. No way I would have been able to. I'm slightly spoiled in that regard as I have access to amazing stereoscopic ones.

All in all, I'm happy with how things went. Now on to setting everything up.

 

[warrios96]

Could you take pictures or pass along a manual you followed?

I'm going to install it and I do not see it very clear the installation method.