NSW Lite C218 Replacement & D0 Pad

obnoxiousmods

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This capacitor is near the 4 pin IC thats near the 3.3v cap C217 thats commonly used for the Lite's flex when installing a picofly, i put my tweezers between it cuz i couldnt tell 100% if it was bridged or not and it pushed it right off the board, i swear i hot air gunned it properly back on and i took the console apart and it was gone again

Also the flex i had for doing a lite picofly had an awful design flaw and was shorting B/RST to 3.3v and the actual D0 CMD etc were messing up too on a bunch of them so i tried doing the install with wires and it was working but i went to clean the wires up and i puilled the wire out and it pulled one of the D0 pads off, after this the console wouldnt exploit anymore eMMC BLOCK 0 READ FAIL, is there anyway to fix it or is the console just fucked?

Console wont turn on currently not sure if its because of C218 or because of the D0 pad but id like to get some C217 and C218 replacements regardless
 
0.1uF I believe, most commonly used
Thanks a lot, do you offer a LCD connector replacement service? How much would you charge if I just sent you the PCB. Its been a real pain point for me to replace (only been soldering a few months) been able to picofly oleds quite easily but for some reason these lcd connectors keep breaking on me or any advice you'd give on fixing them

I ask because been thinking of partnering with someone for the repairs. The first 2 I ended up replacing the console for my customer which I'd prefer I didn't have to do
 
Yes, I offer services from joystick to SOC reballs. You could send me PCB only but I can't guarantee you don't bent the pins after you receive board with new connector
 
View attachment 448676

This capacitor is near the 4 pin IC thats near the 3.3v cap C217 thats commonly used for the Lite's flex when installing a picofly, i put my tweezers between it cuz i couldnt tell 100% if it was bridged or not and it pushed it right off the board, i swear i hot air gunned it properly back on and i took the console apart and it was gone again

Also the flex i had for doing a lite picofly had an awful design flaw and was shorting B/RST to 3.3v and the actual D0 CMD etc were messing up too on a bunch of them so i tried doing the install with wires and it was working but i went to clean the wires up and i puilled the wire out and it pulled one of the D0 pads off, after this the console wouldnt exploit anymore eMMC BLOCK 0 READ FAIL, is there anyway to fix it or is the console just fucked?

Console wont turn on currently not sure if its because of C218 or because of the D0 pad but id like to get some C217 and C218 replacements regardless

What's the design flaw causing B to short? I'm having issues with my B point reading 0.792 instead of the expected 2.9/OL, and the console is not turning on now. Do you think this is the same issue you had with the FPC? I'm using the cable from the newest PicoFly 3-in-1 kit but with a Instinct V6S instead since the pin out matches.

Can I expect to fix this by just doing the B point with a wire and leaving the rest of the FPC as-is? I guess the first step is to remove the B point and see if it even boots to OFW like normal.

Here's my post with more details and readings for each point:
https://gbatemp.net/threads/switch-...tinct-v6s-flashes-white.666773/#post-10590196
 

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