NDSL disassembly/reassembly guide

I wasn't planning on providing a guide for the DSi. given the number of issues that people have had with the DS lite, providing one for the DSi is just asking for trouble due to the increased number of components, smaller size of some of the connectors and puzzle-like assembly process.

I recently disassembled the lower half of a DSi to replace a scratched touch screen, and it took me about an hour to disassemble it (although, I admit that I was probably being over protective and in no hurry)

there are a few good video links on youtube and one site (I can't remember the link) had a step-by-step tear down, so that should be enough for now. maybe when more aftermarket shells are produced, I'll reconsider.
 
Should I attempt replacing the shell my myself?

I don't want to destroy my DS Lite

I need to know how difficult this is before I attempt it?

Also is there somewhere that someone can replace the shell for me or I can buy the Clear Black and Clear White DS Lite already made?
 
science said:
Hey thieves, is that my DS?
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How can he have you DS if you live in Canada?

Sorry about the Double post
 
My son broke the right hinge pretty badly recently on his DS Lite. When he showed it to me I could see the ribbon cable and was concerned that the thing would be ruined. After all, these little machines aren't cheap! The lid was wiggling a lot and I could see the ribbon cable being pulled and twisted. So I started Googling and came up with the link to this tutorial on shell replacements. I located a transparent blue Ghost Shell and purchased it (about a week ago). It came in today. We did the change this evening. It took me 3 1/2 hours to complete. I had to trim some "flare" in several places, but the repair came out beautiful in the end and the machine is working perfectly. I am very happy because I don't have to worry about the display cable being trashed. My son is very happy to have a nicely working hinge again and he loves the transparent blue color. I don't normally spend any time on the "gaming sites", but I was so pleased with your guide that I wanted to thank you for providing it. It is very well written and easy to follow. The photo illustrations were a huge help. Thank you!
 
Thanks alot thieves!

I've used this guide a few times, and now I can finally live without it.
tongue.gif

Also, alot of my friends are using this guide (lot's of thanks from them), and I'm sure hundreds of other people use it too. (Without responding)
 
Hey,

I just got the case here: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10826

Man this thing is perfect!
It comes with everything. Screws, metal hinge, little rubber stubs that cover the screws on the bottom, rubber "safety" bumpers on the top lip, umm... translucent pink screw covers for the 4 screws on the top lid, even frames for the top and bottoms screen matching the color of the shell pefectly.

Oh and a stylus to match!

So my question is, does anyone know of a guide that shows how to replace the frames of the screens?
I started trying to peel them away but wanted to get some input before I mess anything up.
 
So I'm having some problems with reassembling my ds,I think my on/off switch broke off,because I putted it back together,but couldn't turn it on and couldn't feel there was a switch.According to this link http://gbatemp.net/index.php?showtopic=105176 I need to buy a new on/off switch and solder it back on it.The soldering is gonna be a problem for me,because it means I need to get rid off the broken on/off switch first.It seems to get rid off the on/off switch I could use a desoldering braid,but I don't know how to use it,the same applies for the soldering iron.I don't know which one to get or what the requirements are,do I need an leadfree soldering wire?(I'm quite an newb at soldering)

optional part
Since I'm gonna be ending up soldering,along with my case there was also an led circuit board.So I wanna put it in the ds,but where and how am I gonna put it in then?

btw any tips for putting shell back together?Because I don't want to end up breaking the on/off switch again after the soldering is finished X_X(any video's of putting the led circuit board in ds and how to use soldering braid&soldering iron?)
 
I just got a translucent blue DSL case from DX, it had pretty solid reviews. The problem I am having with it is getting the case's top screen to fit together properly even when it's just the two halves of the topscreen shell by itself.

1. It won't sit flush like the orginal case did ( makes me fear opening and closing it will wear out it's plastic hinge)

2. The screwholes won't align at all, no matter how hard I try to force it.

With such high ratings on deal extreme I bought this case expecting it to fit the best without any real hassle. So, what do I do?

(until then I got my DS phat but still DS Lite is night and day better then the phat. Also pokmeon white just came out.)
 
can you provide any photos of what you're trying to describe? it sounds like you may have not routed the internals (display, speaker wires, wifi and microphone wires) correctly and they are binding when you are attempting to slide the 2 halves of the upper shell together.
 
Thieves >>> Not sure wether this is the place to ask since I am a new member and still getting to know the forums - But since I'm here just thought I would ask... I still own and use a DS Phat. I like the feel of it and don't need the bells and whistles of the newer models (including the 3DS). My only downside in using the phat (as I am sure it was with others that once used the Phat) - Is the brightness of the screen and having no control over it except to turn it off. The one major improvement in the newer models IE: DS Lite.

My question is wether or not you know of a viable mod for the phat to rectify this? Any help would be appreciated.

Many thanks in advance, and great guide!
 
thanks
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I'm not aware of any mods for the original "phat" ds that allows you . I believe that is in the the firmware of the DSlite and DSi's which allows you to choice the brightness level

I've got a phat model ds which was recently converted to be used as a direct capture system and I need to swap the case on it (it's pretty beat up). so, when I get a chance to do that, I'll check and see if the original uses the same type of wi-fi/firmware model that the dslite does (although, I can almost guarantee that it doesn't)
 
thieves like us said:
can you provide any photos of what you're trying to describe? it sounds like you may have not routed the internals (display, speaker wires, wifi and microphone wires) correctly and they are binding when you are attempting to slide the 2 halves of the upper shell together.

Photo0024.jpg


Photo0025.jpg


It's the latch on the right in those photos. I've contacted DX about it and they are sending a new replacement free of charge.
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Jeez is my computer room messy.
 
ok. I've had one or two defective shell kits as well. one half of the shell has the "L" hooks and the other side doesn't so there's nothing for the halves to hook together and stay together, correct?

ps
your room doesn't look half as bad as mine is currently
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edit:
I just finished modded another system last night (half transparent clear, the other half transparent blue). I'll post some photos tonight
 
The casing looks awesome. Sadly on the back of my top screen Nintendo/production line work's work in pen on it.
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But still the translucent blue casing will look good. Not that the crimson/black casing wasn't nice.
 
unforunately for us case modders, many of the backs of the displays are marked with marker from a QC worker in the factory

you can try (very carefully) to use either some alcohol or goo-gone (a very, very small amount!!) on a cotton square or folded piece of paper towel to remove the marker. be very careful that you don't over saturate the cotton/paper towel too much. I actually ruined one upper display long ago when some alcohol wicked its way into the display through the flexible ribbon cable
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