PS1/2 MM3 modded PS1 bad performance

CaseyDog

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A while ago I got a pre MM3 chip-modded SCPH-5501 PS1 from a seller on eBay to play burnt hacks and Japanese games, and while it loads games fine (unlike the previous 5501 they sent me), I've come to notice its performance is weaker.

For my most experienced examples, Silent Hill gets constant screen-tearing and Klonoa tends to slow down, which is how each game seems to respectively react to dropped frames. After watching videos, asking people, and most of all, testing Silent Hill (official NTSC-U disc unlike Klonoa) on my PS2, PS3 and unmodded PS1 without these issues, I can confirm these drops're happening way more often than they're supposed to.

How can I fix this (if I can)? It would seem there's a sloppy modding job at play, but I can't find anything online about modchips doing this.
 

Alexander1970

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Hello.:)

A while ago I got a pre MM3 chip-modded SCPH-5501 PS1 from a seller on eBay to play burnt hacks and Japanese games, and while it loads games fine (unlike the previous 5501 they sent me), I've come to notice its performance is weaker.

For my most experienced examples, Silent Hill gets constant screen-tearing and Klonoa tends to slow down, which is how each game seems to respectively react to dropped frames. After watching videos, asking people, and most of all, testing Silent Hill (official NTSC-U disc unlike Klonoa) on my PS2, PS3 and unmodded PS1 without these issues, I can confirm these drops're happening way more often than they're supposed to.

How can I fix this (if I can)? It would seem there's a sloppy modding job at play, but I can't find anything online about modchips doing this.

I am sorry,it is very sad to hear of your Issues..:sad:
MM3 are known as a very good Modchip Solution for all PlayStation PSX Modells and very reliable.

Maybe you know this ?

MM3 modchip drawbacks
The biggest problem with MM3 chips is how they base their timing on the internal oscillator within the PIC chips. Using the internal oscillator can sometimes cause the chip to become out of sync with the console when booting, meaning you’ll have to restart the console to boot.

Certain PIC programmers can also mess up the internal oscillator value when programming, which could be a problem if you are programming your own chips. Additionally it has been reported that certain batches of PIC chips have had problems with the oscillator value in the past.

Maybe your PSX is a little like that ? :sad:

Maybe you can check the Installation of the Chip:
https://quade.co/ps1-modchip-guide/mm3/pu-18/

Good Luck.
Thank you.:)
 
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CaseyDog

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I can't tell which part of that guide I should be looking at, but this is what it looks like after disassembling the console as much as I know how:
D24BEBFD-71E5-4ECF-890D-B8648D304AE8.jpeg
 

rsx

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Different brand of cd-r or a new laser. The model number will be printed on the laser assembly.
 

CaseyDog

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Different brand of cd-r or a new laser. The model number will be printed on the laser assembly.
I use Verbatim CD-R's. The laser assembly appears to need to have screws removed to see the model number inside, what screw head type do I need?
 

Shadow_The_Hedgehog82

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The laser potentiometer probably just needs tweaking a small bit the lasers need more power as they age, if you dont have a multimeter you can probably grab one on ebay super cheap. You wanna measure the resistant then keep bumping down by 100 or so ohms until games run properly

This video is a decent guide
 

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Thing is I don't think the modchip has anything to do with the performance of the console. CD-R quality might if it's dropping frames when trying to access data that it can't read as fast if the laser can't read the data as well, but I've never heard such a thing, usually in PS1 games if it can't stream the data in it needs the game will freeze for a second or two while it loads.

MM3 if I am not mistaken should be a stealth modchip, meaning it disables itself after the game boots, so games with checks for modchips don't throw "This software has been terminated" screens. So the PS1 should act completely unmodified after the game has been loaded.

I think it's just straight up down to something in the hardware of your PS1, probably just a dud system.
 

CaseyDog

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The laser potentiometer probably just needs tweaking a small bit the lasers need more power as they age, if you dont have a multimeter you can probably grab one on ebay super cheap. You wanna measure the resistant then keep bumping down by 100 or so ohms until games run properly
This video is a decent guide

I followed your instructions with a multimeter and turning the pententiometer trying to get to the recommended 1.102 kiloohms in the video but both clockwise and counterclockwise seemed to produce random numbers, turning in both directions respectively sometimes raising and sometimes lowering the number. I can't get anywhere above the tenths place, so this is really strange considering I know the multimeter is fine as of it functioning perfectly accurately just a week ago.

Thing is I don't think the modchip has anything to do with the performance of the console. CD-R quality might if it's dropping frames when trying to access data that it can't read as fast if the laser can't read the data as well, but I've never heard such a thing, usually in PS1 games if it can't stream the data in it needs the game will freeze for a second or two while it loads.

MM3 if I am not mistaken should be a stealth modchip, meaning it disables itself after the game boots, so games with checks for modchips don't throw "This software has been terminated" screens. So the PS1 should act completely unmodified after the game has been loaded.

I think it's just straight up down to something in the hardware of your PS1, probably just a dud system.
Well it's certainly not the quality of my discs considering my official ones work fine on my unmodded PS1.
 
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Shadow_The_Hedgehog82

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Are you getting the probes on the right points? if you miss the top point and accidentally touch the petenitometers shell it will give you weird numbers if you have a thicc probe its quite hard to just touch the top pin. You also need to move it very very lightly like not even a visible amount as they are very sensitive

Also dont try and match the numbers from the vid as each laser will be different you should jsut lower by like 100 ohms or so and then test a game to see if it runs smoothly, i'd recommend making a disc with pepsi man on it since it has a long video at the beginning so its really easy to tell if its being choppy or not
 
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playstays_shun

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Have you considered an optical drive emulator and a re-cap / maybe doing it on another system for peace of mind since ps1's are cheap?

I too doubt its the mod chip itself. likely laser, hardware, and/or media.
 

CaseyDog

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Have you considered an optical drive emulator and a re-cap / maybe doing it on another system for peace of mind since ps1's are cheap?

I too doubt its the mod chip itself. likely laser, hardware, and/or media.
i've never heard of optical drive emulators before but that sounds like the perfect solution, then i wouldn't have to go through the hassle of burning discs either
 
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playstays_shun

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Theyre quite expensive and require soldering https://castlemaniagames.com/products/xstation

I wouldn’t say quite. PSIO is pricier and MODE is
In the $200’s they all require soldering

$99 even requiring installation is quite fair for
An ODE especially since it’s the one that fixes PSIO Finnickiness and MODE for ps1
Came
To market after. the only measurement by which it’s expensive is if you compare to a clone gdemu but clones aren’t a fair one to include

Is a chip and cd-r’s cheaper? Absolutely but not as good of a solution at all or future proof
 

Shadow_The_Hedgehog82

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I wouldn’t say quite. PSIO is pricier and MODE is
In the $200’s they all require soldering

$99 even requiring installation is quite fair for
An ODE especially since it’s the one that fixes PSIO Finnickiness and MODE for ps1
Came
To market after. the only measurement by which it’s expensive is if you compare to a clone gdemu but clones aren’t a fair one to include

Is a chip and cd-r’s cheaper? Absolutely but not as good of a solution at all or future proof

Well yeah its not too bad when compared to the alternatives but still quite a lot of money considering its such an old games console. I guess its not too bad tho i had to buy a cd burner for my pc as I haven't had one in years and have also had to buy cds which cost more than they used to and are a lot harder to find in shops these days so I guess its a very convenient option. I'm sure the price is quite similar when you factor in a few 25 packs of cds too

Not sure i'd consider it if I couldn't solder tho just looking at prices for my country and i'm seeing installation fees for about £80 and the device is another £80 ontop of that lel
 

playstays_shun

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Well yeah its not too bad when compared to the alternatives but still quite a lot of money considering its such an old games console. I guess its not too bad tho i had to buy a cd burner for my pc as I haven't had one in years and have also had to buy cds which cost more than they used to and are a lot harder to find in shops these days so I guess its a very convenient option. I'm sure the price is quite similar when you factor in a few 25 packs of cds too

Not sure i'd consider it if I couldn't solder tho just looking at prices for my country and i'm seeing installation fees for about £80 and the device is another £80 ontop of that lel

'old console' means nothing. there's a whole ODE / flashcart market out there.

the MODE is doing VERY well and its in the $200's. Same with MegaSD that was $260, before Mega Everdrive Pro came out but that's still $200.

Some people only can justify clones but sometimes you get what you pay for.

if anything it's MORE justifiable bc people want to preserve their originals on a shelf, or not worry about disc rot, or the other thing... for rarities and such
 

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