Hacking LZ button not working after joycon mod

link42586

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This is about as unnecessary of A button as they come and i'm not at all worried about getting it fixed as this is an old joycon to being with but what would have caused this? every single button other than that one works correctly. I bridged the two points on the rail itself and I know they are not touching anything else other than what they should be but i'm curious which ribbon cable is responsible for those buttons..The one near the edge or the one near the center. As I feel like I didn't connect one properly as one of the ribbons had the contacts hanging out...the one near the edge. Didn't seem like it would go in further but I didn't push too hard as at the time I had no clue this was A thing.
 

gallymimu

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This is about as unnecessary of A button as they come and i'm not at all worried about getting it fixed as this is an old joycon to being with but what would have caused this? every single button other than that one works correctly. I bridged the two points on the rail itself and I know they are not touching anything else other than what they should be but i'm curious which ribbon cable is responsible for those buttons..The one near the edge or the one near the center. As I feel like I didn't connect one properly as one of the ribbons had the contacts hanging out...the one near the edge. Didn't seem like it would go in further but I didn't push too hard as at the time I had no clue this was A thing.
you can look at a teardown https://www.fictiv.com/blog/posts/nintendo-switch-teardown

certainly a loose or torn polyimide flex cable could do it. Are you certain you didn't dislodge the button itself causing it to seat incorrectly? This could easily cause it to not actuate the dome/tact switch underneath.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Should have got a rcm jig.

yeah, trashing the pins in the switch itself is a MUCH better plan.
 

Chipidy

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you can look at a teardown https://www.fictiv.com/blog/posts/nintendo-switch-teardown

certainly a loose or torn polyimide flex cable could do it. Are you certain you didn't dislodge the button itself causing it to seat incorrectly? This could easily cause it to not actuate the dome/tact switch underneath.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------



yeah, trashing the pins in the switch itself is a MUCH better plan.
What are you talking about . Using a GOOD RCM jig ONCE and enabling AutoRCM is pretty freaking easy.
 

gallymimu

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What are you talking about . Using a GOOD RCM jig ONCE and enabling AutoRCM is pretty freaking easy.

I think it was pretty clear what I was talking about and with good reason. Anyway you are not answering his question with your comment and I shouldn't have followed up on it.
 
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link42586

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What are you talking about . Using a GOOD RCM jig ONCE and enabling AutoRCM is pretty freaking easy.

But u don't always want rcm to be on atm. So with this u can choose to enter it or not. And again i'm not even remotely worried about this as I have plenty of controllers to go around but in the future I am replacing the joystick because of serious drift I was going to look into getting the button working again while I was inside. Pretty sure the cable isn't torn as those two are the easiest to put back in. But i'll look into it when i'm back inside it. That's why I was wondering which one controlled those buttons as their is two coming off the rail.

As with the teardown...it's the very first picture of the teardown. That's the two cables i'm thinking of reseating. One has to be for the buttons (i'm thinking the one in the middle of the controller not the one by the bottom). And the one I don't think it is, is the one with alot of contacts showing but from pics i've seen they all look like that. I'll figure it out. No biggy.

Before I didn't even consider doing this as it seems crazy to do but AutoRCM isn't really the best idea right now and using A jig every time is kinda A hassle. So this is the best of both worlds. As I have no sx pro and don't want to enter rcm everytime.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Not sure if it's dislodged btw but it seems to feel just like the other and presses/clicks fine. Maybe i'll check that out to while i'm at it but I don't remember taking that far apart.
 
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gallymimu

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But u don't always want rcm to be on atm. So with this u can choose to enter it or not. And again i'm not even remotely worried about this as I have plenty of controllers to go around but in the future I am replacing the joystick because of serious drift I was going to look into getting the button working again while I was inside. Pretty sure the cable isn't torn as those two are the easiest to put back in. But i'll look into it when i'm back inside it. That's why I was wondering which one controlled those buttons as their is two coming off the rail.

As with the teardown...it's the very first picture of the teardown. That's the two cables i'm thinking of reseating. One has to be for the buttons (i'm thinking the one in the middle of the controller not the one by the bottom). And the one I don't think it is, is the one with alot of contacts showing but from pics i've seen they all look like that. I'll figure it out. No biggy.

Before I didn't even consider doing this as it seems crazy to do but AutoRCM isn't really the best idea right now and using A jig every time is kinda A hassle. So this is the best of both worlds. As I have no sx pro and don't want to enter rcm everytime.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Not sure if it's dislodged btw but it seems to feel just like the other and presses/clicks fine. Maybe i'll check that out to while i'm at it but I don't remember taking that far apart.

I did a magnetic reed switch in mine personally.

I don't know what else could be causing your problem. the ribbon cables are definitely the most likely culprits. Make sure you understand how the flex connectors work. They can be tricky to identify how they latch and how they seat. Most these days have some latching mechanism (you probably wouldn't have gotten them apart in the first place if you didn't undo the latch).
 

link42586

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Woulda broke those little guys if I just ripped em off..But yeah I opened them all up before I removed them. And closed all of them on the way back. It's just A fyi think I would just like to know as this isn't really A problem I care to fix. I wouldn't have even known about it if I didn't think to check the sync button once it was back together. But I have 2 joycon sets and two pro controllers so i'll never use those buttons again probably.

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

And thx for the input btw. No nonsense with u I like that.
 

lembi2001

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Am I misunderstanding this or has everyone missed the glaring issue with this?

OP said his LZ button doesn't work after he has modded it. What mod were you doing on the LEFT Joycon? It's the Right Joycon that enables RCM not the left
 

link42586

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Am I misunderstanding this or has everyone missed the glaring issue with this?

OP said his LZ button doesn't work after he has modded it. What mod were you doing on the LEFT Joycon? It's the Right Joycon that enables RCM not the left

It's the SL button. The one on the rail when u use just one joycon sideways. Their is no LZ button (it's ZL for the left joycon and ZR for the right lol) but SL rather on the right joycon wasn't working. So I get what ur saying but i'm talking about the buttons on the rail. But I hope they knew what I was talking about...Nobody mods the left anything so i'm assuming they knew what I was talking about when talking about modding a joycon. And asking about which cable was responsible for the buttons on the rail itself. Alot of nintendo gaming over the years. And they have too many new button names now that I think about it. Nobody even corrected me or cared to ask. lol unfortunately I don't know how to change the topic name.
 
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