Hacking Hardware How do i connect the Matrix V3 to my NAND-X???

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Wheredego

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Ok so i recently received my NAND-X and Matrix V3, but then i noticed that the Matrix has no pins for the NAND-X to slot in to. So now im wondering, how am i going to put a timing file on this thing...
 
You wire these points to your Nand X, then use Jungle Flasher on PC.
rBVaSlsre92Aey2RAAM2sSve6PA538.jpg

Either direct wire, or add pinheaders to the Matrix board, like this:
r-nandx5.jpg
 
Last edited by BigOnYa,
1000043337.jpg

Get a 6 pin header you'll be able to connect the NAND-X wires to and you'll have to hold the header at an angle while you r/w to your chip... if you don't wanna modify/ solder NAND-X wires.
 
Just remember to read your original Nand from your X360 at least 2 times and compare them to confirm they are the same/ good reads, then save that Nand on PC and/or external storage, before you do anything else. Good luck.
 
Just remember to read your original Nand from your X360 at least 2 times and compare them to confirm they are the same/ good reads, then save that Nand on PC and/or external storage, before you do anything else. Good luck.
I will need it, I know it wont be that hard since these pads and stuff are around the size that im most proficient with, so as long as im not stupid or dont apply too much force it should be ok... this will be my first console mod, but i have been practicing prior to this
 
Just remember to read your original Nand from your X360 at least 2 times and compare them to confirm they are the same/ good reads, then save that Nand on PC and/or external storage, before you do anything else. Good luck.
No bad blocks in the first 50 blocks when you read your NAND
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So it turns out i had a few of these lying around, and i have this now, i plan to trim it and solder it thoughView attachment 553282
You don't have to solder the header in place to save on real estate inside, l you could just hold the header at an angle to make contact during the 3.5min read.
 
Just a headsup: Depending on your console and your goal, you don't need those glitch chips anymore.
RGH 3 is the way to go, if you have a Falcon or anything newer and don't intend to do dual/triple NAND setups.
 
Just a headsup: Depending on your console and your goal, you don't need those glitch chips anymore.
RGH 3 is the way to go, if you have a Falcon or anything newer and don't intend to do dual/triple NAND setups.
This is a Tonasket, aren't the glitch times and the chances of it glitching at all really dodgy on fats?
 
Last edited by Wheredego,
This is a Tonasket, aren't the glitch times and the chances of it glitching at all really dodgy on fats?
The author of RGH3 is here in the board and he did an update for RGH3 on phats out of the blue.


Maybe you'll get lucky, but I'd try this first.
 
Last edited by FR0ZN,
Just a few more questions before i continue with this:

what do the fat and slim labels on the chip mean? Is there anything i need to do with the stuff near these labels for the specific revisions, or is nothing supposed to be done here?

Do i NEED to disable the oscillator even if i plan to wire to CLK?

If i do need to disable the oscillator in reference to the above question, do i go for the 0 ohm or the one labelled 330?
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And do i need to do anything with these labels or no?
IMG_1473.jpg
 
Last edited by Wheredego,

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