1. isoboy

    isoboy GBAtemp Maniac
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    My best advice is if you've never soldered anything before, find a practice board until you feel confident. Simple as that.

    Get a ez-flash IV.
     
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  2. slaphappygamer

    slaphappygamer GBAtemp Psycho!
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    That's great advise. I gutted an old dsl modem and practiced on that. It was a real confidence booster.
     
  3. The Raziel

    The Raziel Newbie
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    Hi all, i have tried modding my GBA using an AGS-101 screen and leechan85 ribbon cable, all worked well untile i ripped off 2 pin of the switch...and now my gba is stuck in low light mode....there i s amode to force it in high light mode? thanks in advance (lol)
     
  4. zer0dahero

    zer0dahero Newbie
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    Hi
    I'm having an issue with the GBA mod I've recently done.
    I put a ags-101 type A screen on a 32pin board and it works perfectly (no backlight switch) except that sometimes the screen light would dim visibly.
    Fiddling with the battery area of the case (like gently pushing and moving the batteries around a little bit) fixes the problem and the light goes back to normal, so it feels like some kind of contact issue.
    Now, I'm no electronic expert, I just followed a guide to make it and I can't figure out why it does this. I only know it's very finicky (even so much as touching the back case fixes it)
    Maybe the screen's folded ribbon cable down there? Though I assume it has something to do with voltage.
    What do you guys think?
     
  5. pelago

    pelago Member
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    Sounds like a bad connection. Have you opened it up and tested/resoldered?
     
  6. zer0dahero

    zer0dahero Newbie
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    I haven't opened the console yet. It's annoying, but it's very easy to "fix" and doesn't happen often
    Now I'm thinking that the cause might be the cable from the ribbon cable adapter to the mobo. The pin on the motherboard is so tiny and the soder I have is too thick to use it without overflowing to the pins next to the one I need (with my skill level), so I had to make do with the soder already on it, which is very little.
    Every time I had to open the gba for whatever reason I had to resoder that cable because it's so delicate. Last time I put tape on it thinking it would keep it in place, but I might have done a piss poor job.
    To be honest I thought that without that connection the screen simply wouldn't have enough power to turn on, but maybe is just a voltage regulator?
     
  7. JCR1

    JCR1 GBAtemp Regular
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    Hi, I have a question, if I have all correct, 32 pin cable ribbon + 32 pin motherboard + white tab screen, can I add a potentiometer to the wire that goes to Da1? (just to graduate the bright to my taste)

    And if that is possible, how can I solder it if the potentiometer has 3 legs?
     
  8. malheur

    malheur Advanced Member
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    AGS-101 backlight runs with voltage called "VDD5". it's 34th line of the LCD. it runs normally without any soldering and solder this 34th VDD5 to that famous DA1 point makes brighter.

    so, obviously you can do what you want. in this situation, lowest voltage of LCD-side-VDD5 need is board-side-VDD5 and highest one is DA1. right? so put the 1st leg of pot to board-side-VDD5, 3rd leg to DA1, 2nd leg to LCD-side-VDD5.
     
  9. pubjoe

    pubjoe GBAtemp Regular
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    Can I ask for some help?

    I have a 40-pin AGB 001 and am looking to order a screen and ribbon cable through Aliexpress:

    screen (reviews look excellent)
    Ribbon cable (from the same seller)

    I'm hesitant because from what I've gathered in this thread the screen has a uniform ribbon cable, making it A type according to this page - although I swear I've read posts that call this B type :? - either way it's white tab style which I understand could be problematic for my 40-pin GBA.

    But one of the reviews of the LCD linked above says:

    "Fast shipping, perfect screens for my AGS-101 and for my AGB-001 with the 40 pin B ribbon 100% recommended"

    So do the screen compatibility issues not apply to repro LCDs? Am I good to just purchase the above?

    Also, some ribbon cable sellers use the following pictures:

    [​IMG]

    Snipped:

    [​IMG]
    So now I'm getting really confused. Do I need a 40-pin B cable? Those pictures show different options. Picture 1 has a wire attached to both types of 40-pin, picture 2 has a wire attached to only one.
    Okay, I've just realised the second pic was for an SP. that makes it simpler.

    So looks like I need a 40-pin B type cable for the screen I linked to above?
     
    Last edited by pubjoe, Aug 1, 2017
  10. pcm720

    pcm720 GBAtemp Regular
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    These are technically the same screens you'll find in AGS-101, so no, all compatibility issues are still there.
    I'm sure you'll face backlight issues with this adapter.
    There was some guy on GBX.ru with the same combination of GBA, screen and adapter just a month ago. He had to remove some SMD components from AGB-001 board for the backlight to work properly.

    I myself had no problems with this adapter
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/GameBoy-Adv...daptor-Brightness-Switch-40-pin-/400771955089

    Last time I checked, they called "white tab" screen "B-type", so yes, you'll need B-type adapter.
     
    Last edited by pcm720, Aug 1, 2017
  11. pubjoe

    pubjoe GBAtemp Regular
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    Thank you pcm720

    I was looking at the Switch version but was trying to keep costs low.

    Did you use a white tab type screen with a 40-pin GBA?
     
  12. pcm720

    pcm720 GBAtemp Regular
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    Yes, I have 40-pin GBA with white tab AGS-101 screen, and it worked out-of-the-box with the adapter I linked in my previous post.
    Switchless version should be fine too, if it's for the correct screen type.
     
  13. pubjoe

    pubjoe GBAtemp Regular
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    Thank you again.

    I'm glad I checked here as this page caused confusion by referring to it as A type.

    Ok, I'll order the screen and 40-pin B-type cable and if I have problems I'll order the cable you linked to.

    While I'm here, do you know of a source for that nice cable which allows brightness change with select+L (mentioned earlier in this thread)?
     
  14. pcm720

    pcm720 GBAtemp Regular
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    Yeah, it's available from the same seller.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/GameBoy-Adv...ith-5-level-Brightness-40-pin-B-/181797004647
     
  15. Zmajchek

    Zmajchek Member
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    Hello Everyone!

    I'm new on this forum and I have registered just so I could photos of my GBA modification. This is an original GBA 40 pin model which I've bought in 2001 and I've bought this screen:

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For...M-Backlit-Brighter-Highlight/32622199888.html

    And this cable (40 pin B):

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32P...1-Backlit-Adapter-Screen-Mod/32716977370.html

    I haven't soldered the wire that came with the adapter because I lack soldering skills and equipment. However the screen has a perfect balance of contrast and brightness when one is playing inside; the screen is crisp and there is no ghosting or any other problems. Outside is another matter completely, and it is unplayable for me because of the reflections and dimness of the screen whose backlight can't compete with natural light even on a cloudy day :(.

    If I had soldered the adapter wire the screen would have been too bright for my taste when playing inside, but it would have to be at least 3x as bright as in non-soldered state for it to be playable outside. Even then I think it wouldn't be ideal because of the glare.

    Edit: I've removed the old low resolution photos and replaced them with higher quality ones.
     

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    Last edited by Zmajchek, Aug 23, 2017
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  16. eldontyrell

    eldontyrell Member
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    Hi all,

    I bought a kit on aliexpress (w/ 40 pins ribon cable).
    Yesterday I installed it, and connected P1 to D1A.

    On first power on, the screen was washed out, I really was disappointed.

    Then I've read some guys who had the same problem and connected 103 to GND.
    So I did it and, wow, perfect picture now !

    But (and that's why I' asking someone here ...), I noticed the power consumption was very high.

    A brand new set of alcaline batteries lasted 30 minutes. Seriously, only 30 minutes!

    I measured the consumption : 350 ma !! that's 3,5 times the normal GBA consumption, which should be around 100 ma.
    So a set of 2000 mah batteries would last between 5 and 6 hours, at best. Really disappointing figures.

    So, my questions :

    - Is my screen faulty ? I know there are dozens of chinese manufacturers out there, and probably of lot of different designs, and
    some of them are probably wrong (could be my case)
    - Would wesoldering P1 to D1A reduce consumption ?
    - Would it be possible to reduce consumption by adding some resistors to the screen leds (if ever leds are used).
    - Any other way to have a normal consumption ??

    Thanks a lot !

    Stéphane
     
  17. pcm720

    pcm720 GBAtemp Regular
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    If my crappy multimeter (really gotta buy something better) is correct, my 40-pin GBA draws up to ~180 mA max on high brightness setting and up to ~150 mA on low brightness setting (in-game/EZFlash IV menu). The lowest current draw is around 110 mA with EZ-Flash IV inserted.
    I measured that on 10A since the fuse is blown on 200 mA input, so I'm not sure if these values are accurate.
    The screen is from AGS-101 of unknown origin (GBA SP was seller refurbished), with uniform leads and white tab, and no modifications apart from soldering the red wire to DA1 were needed for the adapter to work.
    Note that EZ-Flash IV draws more current than original game cart. Almost twice as much if "another famous flashcart" is indeed EZ-Flash IV.
     
    Last edited by pcm720, Aug 19, 2017
  18. slaphappygamer

    slaphappygamer GBAtemp Psycho!
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  19. lordkaos

    lordkaos GBAtemp Advanced Fan
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    how's the battery life?
     
  20. Zmajchek

    Zmajchek Member
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    Hi Pcm720,

    I've been measuring the current draw on my modified GBA yesterday and it is around 95 mA when playing a regular cart (Castlevania: Aria of Sorrow). This measurement was taken by using the 200mA input on my multimeter.

    Just a warning to anyone who wishes to to measure the current – the multimeter needs to be connected in series, not in parallel because you are going to short the battery if you connect it in parallel (and end up blowing up the 200mA fuse inside your multimeter).

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    With a current draw of around 95 mA and by using 2xAA 2500 mAh rechargeable batteries it should last between 20 - 23 hours.
     
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