I never said recovering was the easy part.
The root of this guy's question was "how do I put and run stuff off the card?" If the G6 is the only device you have, don't F it up. If you have additional cards around you in any way, have at it
Really the *best* way to flash it without shorting the "wrong" hidden metal (hidden around the SL1) is to use a mini flathead screwdriver that is insulated with electrical tape except at the very end of the tip. Do this, and holding the battery in (do whatever you have to, tape it and then hold it in--whatever--note HAVING THE CHARGER PLUGGED IN WILL NOT SAVE YOU ON A DS LITE, unlike the old DS), will give you a less than 1% chance of having the DS Lite cut off on you and brick it. I was even able to flash a brand new DSL a few days ago, outside in the 100 degree heat at Best Buy, with the heat making the insulation start to come off AND having a HELL of a time getting contact with the flashing tool....(I swear it took 5 minutes to get it to go PAST 1%, twirling the screwdriver repeatedly and doing a few reinsertions, then it went up like 2% per each second...SLOWER than my first DSL.....what the hell...), and I STILL succeeded.
This type of tool is the safest, as there is *less* metal sticking around in the slot to accidentally short the metal hidden around the borders of the SL1, unlike tinfoil on a toothpick (even insulated), although it takes the most fidgeting to get a solid bridge, since you can't 'see' if the flathead is positioned correctly--until that magic % gauge starts increasing.
If I can succeed under THOSE extreme conditions, in a hot Best Buy parking lot (and keep in mind I'm disabled with a metal bar through my spine), there's no reason in the world you shouldn't, either.
Oh, and you can also test your screwdriver insulation by practicing shorting the SL1 during normal use (before flashing), twirling it around and trying to get a flat fit, etc, and I think you will see that you will not have any "oops I shorted the hidden metal on the side" problems.