Homebrew Question Flashing Joy-Con SPI from Homebrew

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vmp17

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Hello,

I am actually familiar with Joy-Con Toolkit and have used it to edit colors as well as backup/restore Joy-Con SPIs.

The issue I have is that I got a Joy-Con that only works when attached to the Switch and doesn't turn on when detached, thus I can't connect it to a computer using Bluetooth (and I haven't figured out how to fix it yet).

I would like to know from people who are familiar with homebrew if writing one for flashing the Joy-Con SPI (which contains the "Factory configuration") or just editing that "Factory configuration" of a Joy-Con while connected to the console is doable or not. Is it possible to access and modify a Joy-Con's SPI from Atmosphere or from RCM?
 
Last edited by vmp17,
Hello,

I am actually familiar with Joy-Con Toolkit and have used it to edit colors as well as backup/restore Joy-Con SPIs.

The issue I have is that I got a Joy-Con that only works when attached to the Switch and doesn't turn on when detached, thus I can't connect it to a computer using Bluetooth (and I haven't figured out how to fix it yet).

I would like to know from people who are familiar with homebrew if writing one for flashing the Joy-Con SPI (which is more than just the firmware from my understanding) while connected to the console is doable or not. Is it possible to access and modify a Joy-Con's SPI from Atmosphere or from RCM?
AFAIK there s no tool for it but it should be possible.
Did u modify your joycon to access rcm?
If you bridge pin 1 and 10 it will prevent you from connecting the joycon wireless. So you need to solder in a switch between 1 and 10.
 
AFAIK there s no tool for it but it should be possible.
Did u modify your joycon to access rcm?
If you bridge pin 1 and 10 it will prevent you from connecting the joycon wireless. So you need to solder in a switch between 1 and 10.
I didn't. I was just changing its shell and somehow broke something. I thought it was just the battery, but it still didn't work with a different battery. I also tried replugging the two connectors between the MB and the rail, but that didn't work neither. Thanks for the suggestion though.
 

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