Hacking Error 003 Korean Wii

[SalemDante]

Soo, i have Korean Wii (unfortunately D4 Drive) that was bricked, i bought it working ofc changed region to JP, but i (stupid) did Factory reset, so it was bricked (003) and without any BootMii or any modchip, what are my options here? I'm considering buying Dvd drive (D2B) i found it for 9$ i think, and I'm going to do (YAOSM ) Modchip with PIC 16F630, so it can run burnt disc, so my question is this the right direction for this? Or there's another solution?

 

[XFlak]

Not exactly what you were asking, but a factory reset wouldn't result in 003 brick. Did you do anything else? Like maybe do an official update or install anything else?

In the future I suggest u use modmii to either softmod, region change and/or update system menu versions. Even if you had done just 1 of these 3 things using modmii your brick would have been avoided.

 

[SalemDante]

Not exactly what you were asking, but a factory reset wouldn't result in 003 brick. Did you do anything else? Like maybe do an official update or install anything else?

In the future I suggest u use modmii to either softmod, region change and/or update system menu versions. Even if you had done just 1 of these 3 things using modmii your brick would have been avoided.

I'm asking for solution my brother, factory reset followed by update i think, lol because i wanted to change my language from Japanese to English, i missed up real bad, can you offer me a solution? I already spent 10$ on PIC and some other wirings and stuff so i can program my PIC to Soldering it on Wii

 

[XFlak]

If u can get into a homebrew environment then it's cake. I don't think SaveMiiFrii or bluebomb will work in this case, although I think with some tweaks bluebomb might be capable. I've heard that there are a bunch of different bluebomb "stages" compiled for different games on that mariocube site. If u can launch into any of those games in theory u can launch the corresponding bluebomb stage to launch homebrew. Bluebomb needs Linux and Bluetooth though, I've actually never even attempted it personally.

To fix this u can either install modmii's recommended ios80 wad (which is actually a patched version of ios60v6174), and/or use koreankii to remove the Korean key from your seeprom. Both are super easy if u have homebrew access.

U could also restore a nand backup if u have one from before doing the update, but without bootmii access you'd be reliant upon using a hardware flasher like infectus.

A new/used wii is probably cheaper than trying to get an infectus though.

Edit: I know more about brick prevention than brick recovery though. With some luck someone else might have some other more viable ideas for you

Good luck

 

[SalemDante]

I appreciate your help very much my friend , if there's something it can help me on this subject please send me a link or tutorial or something, if it requires Laptop, i can turn my laptop to.linux and i have Bluetooth in my laptop, if it needs soldering i have the skills, if it needs DIY I'll do it, if it needs DVD I'll buy one, anything doesn't require something to be bought I'll do it in order to save this console, I'm buying DVD Drive (D2A) and Some PIC microcontroller so i can program it to YAOSM

 

[wei134102]

delete my replay!

 

[SylverReZ]

before it bricked,the menu is under 4.3?if it under 4.3 ,you could try use disc to update,i dont try that!

This is bad advice for many reasons. If you install a system update that doesn't match the region of your console, you can permanently brick it as a result. If the Korean Wii still has the Korean key in the system, and that you had already homebrewed the system without removing it, then there's no way of recovering without using Mario Kart PWNS through recovery mode.

 

[SalemDante]

This is bad advice for many reasons. If you install a system update that doesn't match the region of your console, you can permanently brick it as a result. If the Korean Wii still has the Korean key in the system, and that you had already homebrewed the system without removing it, then there's no way of recovering without using Mario Kart PWNS through recovery mode.

I'm trying to press the GC arrow key to see what region my Wii is, it always get to 003 only, ( i tried snapping the middle D-Pad but nothing works i press all arrow at the same time)

 

[SalemDante]

Today
So continue from my previous thread, I did manage to get D2B Disc drive, I got me some PIC 16F630/676 bought a PIC programmer , I read the Microcontroller Factory Oscal value (342C) then i put the YAOSM hex file (Yaosm_16f630/676 D2B.hex) the file changed my oscal value from 342C bandgap 00, to 3FFF bandgap 01, so i changed it back to 342C bandgap 00, and verified my program,
I soldered my PIC to the Disc drive,

I followed sthetix guide which is getting the Original Mario kart wii (usa) with MD5 hash exactly as his in the video
And getting the super smash bros brawl (PAL) which is also the same as his md5 hash in the video, Used his PAWNS to creat Disc1&Disc2

And i burned disc1 (mario kart wii) into DVD+RW 4.7Gb Imation, and disc2 (SSBB) into DVD+R 8.5Gb Dual layer Imation

Now everything is read
Aaaaaand
Nothing happened,

The disc1 is spinning for 2 seconds and stops spinning and never spin again or any other disc until i turn off the device and turned it on again,
As for Disc2 dual layer, when i put it it started to spin like it's reading, but it never stops and nothing pops up in the screen,

I noticed the same exact behaviour when i de solder the Modchip, same thing, so I don't know what is the problem is it the DVD+RW? Is it Modchip? Is it the programming?, i cleaned the laser and nothing happens, I'll try to buy new DVD+R instead of DVD+RW and see what happens, and I'll try 16F676 without changing the osccal value, and I'll try to replace the laser as last resort, I'll keep you updated, if there's anything you can help me with please share as i spent last 3 months gathering and Search

Post automatically merged: Today at 8:25 PM

So i bought some VERBATIM DVD-R, i burned it well, and the problem that disc1 had for spinning about 2 seconds is GONE, now it spins correctly. But it didn't solve my problem unfortunately, The modchip seems to not working, idk what to do, i guess it has something with programming but idk, I did everything by the book , The hex files the (press no to change osccal value) everything, i even double checked the PIC before and after installation maybe it didn't work after i Soldering to the wii , but it works in my PIC programmer and i saw the data didn't change, so I don't know what to do now

 

[SylverReZ]

No offense but your soldering is dreadful. No wonder it doesn't work. There's no solid connection between the joints and the wire. Leads are way too long, and the blue wire is right next to another pad, which can short if it comes into contact. You should really start by practicing more with soldering before attempting this.

 

[SalemDante]

No offense but your soldering is dreadful. No wonder it doesn't work. There's no solid connection between the joints and the wire. Leads are way too long, and the blue wire is right next to another pad, which can short if it comes into contact. You should really start by practicing more with soldering before attempting this.

As i see nothing is touching with anything else, i think i solder them nicely (without microscope

Post automatically merged: Today at 8:45 PM

No offense but your soldering is dreadful. No wonder it doesn't work. There's no solid connection between the joints and the wire. Leads are way too long, and the blue wire is right next to another pad, which can short if it comes into contact. You should really start by practicing more with soldering before attempting this.

If it helps i can resolder it directly under microscope but i don't see how You see that there's nothing soldered to the joint pads , if you point out to it'll be much help

 

[SylverReZ]

i think i solder them nicely (without microscope

You didn't, and you should've realized on what you did wrong. The joints appear cold, and wire strands are protruding next to other pads, which can potentially short a component or make the chip malfunction. It would have been preferable to flux the pads beforehand and then generously solder the pads, just enough so that the wires can bond to them.

 

[SalemDante]

You didn't, and you should've realized on what you did wrong. The joints appear cold, and wire strands are protruding next to other pads, which can potentially short a component or make the chip malfunction. It would have been preferable to flux the pads beforehand and then generously solder the pads, just enough so that the wires can bond to them.

I'll rework them tomorrow then and see how it goes brother, thanks for the advice