Hardware Botched shell swap

[ganons]

So I was replacing an analog stock due to drift. I had to pry open the original shell because of a stripped screw and then place it in a new shell. Was trying to be really careful but it appears I ripped a pad off the board. Can it be fixed by soldering it back on?

 

[ds34]

Well, some of the pads look like you pulled them off the board. Can you try to apply new solder to the pads?

 

[ganons]

Looks like the other cable doesn't go in because the clamp on the right strip became loose.

 

[logandzwon]

I am sorry for your loss.

 

[nine0nine]

pretty sure you've ripped off a few of the pads, time to buy a new one I'm afraid.

 

[cracker]

That can be repaired. There are vias for all of the pads that can be scraped and soldered to. Soldering to the flex cable is a really tiny job though.

 

[ganons]

pretty sure you've ripped off a few of the pads, time to buy a new one I'm afraid.

Yea ordered a new board.

 

[Winnppl]

Yea ordered a new board.

That’s the best choice, if I had a customer who came in with that issue, I would just replace the motherboard

 

[Ericthegreat]

Why can't he just jump it?

 

[ganons]

So just found this and looks like an official set minus the boxing?

www.wish.com/share/8350lhgtnu

 

[Homlet]

So just found this and looks like an official set minus the boxing?

www.wish.com/share/8350lhgtnu

Come on dude, do you really think those are official? Might be an official looking shell, but I'd be surprised if it had hd rumble, IR camera, good battery etc

As a rule of thumb, never use wish. Aliexpress is always better, not that you'll find official nintendo products there either

 

[cracker]

He has no skillz like tinysolderman™.

 

[ganons]

Come on dude, do you really think those are official? Might be an official looking shell, but I'd be surprised if it had hd rumble, IR camera, good battery etc

As a rule of thumb, never use wish. Aliexpress is always better, not that you'll find official nintendo products there either

I know but they look really good lol, the others I have seen are wider.

 

[Canna]

Flux, and retint the solder contacts, then add the connector with tweezers to the board while gently reflowing the solder with reflow station or reflow heat gun underneath.

Another option is to solder wire to the ribbon, and to the board. Leave good length so you can open joy con again.

Or buy another joycon.

 

[ganons]

So the replacement board finally came today and I did the swap but it doesn't seem to be working. I'm hoping worst case scenario the battery is depleted.

 

[Canna]

So the replacement board finally came today and I did the swap but it doesn't seem to be working. I'm hoping worst case scenario the battery is depleted.

Did you resync the controller to the switch, left it to charge ? just slide it in the rail it should click then show a notification that its paired.

 

[ganons]

Did you resync the controller to the switch, left it to charge ? just slide it in the rail it should click then show a notification that its paired.

No notification showed on the right side of the screen. Gonna leave it on charge for a while.

 

[Canna]

No notification showed on the right side of the screen. Gonna leave it on charge for a while.

As soon as power goes to the new board /joycon it should detect straight away in the rail.

Check for badly placed connections, those Flex cables have special gold pads on the board that the cable wings are supposed to line up to. And make sure the flex cables without wings are fully inserted try not to bend them too much as they can break.

If the joycon worked before the joystick drift then chances are the battery still does and could be bad new board or connection.

Any light on the joycon when you press the sync ? if not check bat connection and the other connections. If not defective board.
Def don't think battery unless you shorted some how but doubt it

 

[ganons]

As soon as power goes to the new board /joycon it should detect straight away in the rail.

Check for badly placed connections, those Flex cables have special gold pads on the board that the cable wings are supposed to line up to. And make sure the flex cables without wings are fully inserted try not to bend them too much as they can break.

If the joycon worked before the joystick drift then chances are the battery still does and could be bad new board or connection.

Any light on the joycon when you press the sync ? if not check bat connection and the other connections. If not defective board.
Def don't think battery unless you shorted some how but doubt it

I had a look again and everything seems to be connected correctly. I even swapped batteries with the left con but no detection nor any lights. Damn.

 

[The Real Jdbye]

So I was replacing an analog stock due to drift. I had to pry open the original shell because of a stripped screw and then place it in a new shell. Was trying to be really careful but it appears I ripped a pad off the board. Can it be fixed by soldering it back on?

I'm kind of in awe at how badly you messed up that connector. It's supposed to be a ZIF (zero insertion force) connector. At no point should you be physically pulling or pushing at the connector. Just flip up the latch (or sometimes there is a piece that you have to push out with a small tool, that takes more effort but still should not require force, I think those particular 2 are of the flip up kind though), gently pull the ribbon out, gently push it all the way in, and flip the latch back down. What did you do to rip it clean off the board like that? Did you forget to flip up the latch or something?

When I opened up my left JoyCon to do the foam connectivity fix, I was super worried about damaging the ribbon cables knowing they are fragile, but that was never an issue. Instead, I damaged the battery connector on the board, not knowing it came apart in two halves, I thought it just pushed onto pins from the side so I pulled at it and pulled both plastic pieces off the pins, one of the pins then broke and I scoured eBay for months for a faulty left JoyCon with good board for a good price with international shipping, and eventually found one with a faulty stick click from Germany for like €15 including shipping which I bought, since I didn't feel comfortable soldering the battery directly to the board.

But with ribbon cables, there are pretty much only a couple of ways the cable can latch in place, the latch itself can sometimes be damaged easily, but ripping the entire connector off the board? I've never seen that. I honestly wonder what you did to cause that.