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Hardware What is the capacitor value on top of Nintendo Switch APU?

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Hello all!
Does anyone know what is the value for the capacitors on top of the Nintendo Switch APU for both the normal (V1, V2) and Lite?
I suppose they are the same value for all of these versions, or at least the same for Marikos.
IMG_20200808_204751026.jpg

Thanks!
 
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fan2k20 said:
interested in this :(
Click to expand...
Hey!
My buddy @Modificatorul told me some time ago but I forgot "closing" this thread! Sorry!

Here it is, mate!
ceramic capacitor 1uf 20% (0201 packaging/size)

They are the same for Eristas and Marikos, BTW!

Cheers!
 
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mvmiranda said:
Hey!
My buddy @Modificatorul told me some time ago but I forgot "closing" this thread! Sorry!

Here it is, mate!
ceramic capacitor 1uf 20% (0201 packaging/size)

They are the same for Eristas and Marikos, BTW!

Cheers!
Click to expand...
ceramic capacitor 1uf 20% 10V?
can you please send me a link? There is many differents :(
Did you fixed yours?
Thank you!!!! ;)
 
Last edited by fan2k20,
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Hi there!

In this post I see 1UF 10v 20% but the aliexpress link is 1UF 6.3V 20%. I also see 10% sometimes around the forum.... So which one is the right one to order :)

Thanks!
 
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As far as i know it should be 1UF 20% 6.3V 0201 ceramic capacitor ( well for points SP1 and SP2 sx core instal points)

I have one of it damaged but switch still works planning to replace it, i found a row of it on iphone 5c pcb ( i have a spare one for part so i'll use it )
view
 

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Last edited by Mr_Twii,
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de9ed said:
how would one weld this back on ? with a hot air gun ?
Click to expand...
Well, I've been using a hot air station... I dunno if a gun will have enough heat to solder it...
I clean it up real good with IPA, re-tin with "normal" solder, apply a good flux then pre-heat the APU with a hot air station and, when the solder is shiny I apply the cap.
To finalize I inspect it with and, if needed, touch the tip of my solder iron with a little bit of solder. Whenever you're doing it, either with a hot air or the iron, use flux!

It's fairly easy!

PS: when I say "clean it real good" I reeeally mean it! Do not let any thermal paste in the APU as it will prevent a good solder, cause a real mess and, potentially, cause the APU to overheat, burn or whatever... It conducts heat, hence the name "thermal" paste! :D :P
 
Last edited by mvmiranda,
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mvmiranda said:
Well, I've been using a hot air station... I dunno if a gun will have enough heat to solder it...
I clean it up real good with IPA, re-tin with "normal" solder, apply a good flux then pre-heat the APU with a hot air station and, when the solder is shiny I apply the cap.
To finalize I inspect it with and, if needed, touch the tip of my solder iron with a little bit of solder. Whenever you're doing it, either with a hot air or the iron, use flux!

It's fairly easy!

PS: when I say "clean it real good" I reeeally mean it! Do not let any thermal paste in the APU as it will prevent a good solder, cause a real mess and, potentially, cause the APU to overheat, burn or whatever... It conducts heat, hence the name "thermal" paste! :D :P
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, I meant the hot air station. Any recommendation or any Chinese one work?

I just recently picked up micro soldering as a hobby, thanks for all the tips :)
 
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de9ed said:
Thanks for the reply, I meant the hot air station. Any recommendation or any Chinese one work?

I just recently picked up micro soldering as a hobby, thanks for all the tips :)
Click to expand...
Any good one will suffice!
I've been using YaXun (Chinese) for almost 7 years now without a problem. :)
 
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i have the simular problem but the capacitor next to sp2 is mising for me.Are dey all same vule

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

zvonko said:
i have the simular problem but the capacitor next to sp2 is mising for me.Are dey all same vule
Click to expand...
 
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Hey guys, I'm having the same problem. The 1st time I soldered everything on my switch lite and I got red LED. Then I tried to de-soldered everything and re-solder.

Then I accidentally pulled out both SP1 & SP2 caps while de-soldering. 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Afterthat I soldered the chip on the board directly without the SP1 & SP2 caps and it works perfectly. I'm able to boot hekate and CFW.

My question is, will it be a problem in the long run without those caps?
 
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