Hardware What is the capacitor value on top of Nintendo Switch APU?

[gokuz]

Hey guys, I'm having the same problem. The 1st time I soldered everything on my switch lite and I got red LED. Then I tried to de-soldered everything and re-solder.

Then I accidentally pulled out both SP1 & SP2 caps while de-soldering. 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Afterthat I soldered the chip on the board directly without the SP1 & SP2 caps and it works perfectly. I'm able to boot hekate and CFW.

My question is, will it be a problem in the long run without those caps?

If it still works. Those are bypass or decoupling capacitors.

Try testing with a high gpu/cpu extensive game. If it works without crashing, you're fine without replacing them.

Just don't overclock.

 

[Hongtm77]

If it still works. Those are bypass or decoupling capacitors.

Try testing with a high gpu/cpu extensive game. If it works without crashing, you're fine without replacing them.

Just don't overclock.

You mean if its in risk, it will just crash instead of burnt the cpu? I just downloaded some games but haven't tried them yet. Just messing with some homebrew apps

 

[gokuz]

You mean if its in risk, it will just crash instead of burnt the cpu? I just downloaded some games but haven't tried them yet. Just messing with some homebrew apps

It won't damage anything. Those caps are only for smoothing frequency or voltage. Engineers put it way beyond the safety threshold, so at stock settings you're good. Therefore overclocking is out of the question.

Try to run botw for 30 mins. If it runs, you're good. Just don't overclock.

Its better than trying to solder it and damaging it. Its small, not very easy to do.

Hot air= might move solder balls on main APU.
Soldering iron = need professional grade irons to melt a small point effectively.

Quit while you're ahead.

 

[Hongtm77]

It won't damage anything. Those caps are only for smoothing frequency or voltage. Engineers put it way beyond the safety threshold, so at stock settings you're good. Therefore overclocking is out of the question.

Try to run botw for 30 mins. If it runs, you're good. Just don't overclock.

Its better than trying to solder it and damaging it. Its small, not very easy to do.

Hot air= might move solder balls on main APU.
Soldering iron = need professional grade irons to melt a small point effectively.

Quit while you're ahead.

Thanks for your advice. Will try to run the game and see how it goes

 

[Hongtm77]

Thanks for your advice. Will try to run the game and see how it goes

Just an update, I tried running botw for more than 30 mins and crysis 3 for another 30mins. Nothing happened.
Anyway thanks again. Hopefully it will be fine for long run *finger crossed*

 

[irvingoh999]

Just an update, I tried running botw for more than 30 mins and crysis 3 for another 30mins. Nothing happened.
Anyway thanks again. Hopefully it will be fine for long run *finger crossed*

Hi, would like to ask specifically what was the configuration you had that still allowed the switch to work? I was soldering an sx core chip and knocked out one of the caps on the cpu, and have been trying to solder it back since, but to no avail. Do I just leave the cap off the cpu? Or do I need to bridge it with a wire? Thanks!

 

[Hongtm77]

Hi, would like to ask specifically what was the configuration you had that still allowed the switch to work? I was soldering an sx core chip and knocked out one of the caps on the cpu, and have been trying to solder it back since, but to no avail. Do I just leave the cap off the cpu? Or do I need to bridge it with a wire? Thanks!

I just soldered the ribbon cable directly on the board without the caps. No you do not need to bridge them, just solder left and right on it

 

[LaPlagaPR]

Hi all I am new to this forum this is even my first post, so I am having this issue NSL APU I circled 2 caps that are giving me shorts is this normal or would anyone have any guidance/suggestion.

Main issue is a blue screen.

Thanks!

 

[daveribs]

Hi all, sorry to reply to an old thread.
I have a v2 Switch. I had bought an HWFLY modchip months ago, but only recently had the time to install it. I thought I was pretty average when it comes to soldering, but when it comes to working on super small components like this, I don't have much experience. Realized after the fact that it wasn't compatible with my eMMC (Toshiba) as it wouldn't work and the seller added a big warning on the item's page (wasn't there when I bought it...). So I unsoldered it and now my Switch almost always crashes 15-20 seconds after booting any game ("The software was closed because an error occurred"). Switch Online seems to work fine (can play SNES emulator without any issue), but that's the only software that seems to work. I tested the Tegra X1's exposed capacitors with a multimeter and the leftmost/bottom one has no continuity and shows 0 ohms. Not sure how I managed to mess it up as I didn't even touch it while installing the HWFLY chip, but oh well.

Wondering if anyone had this symptom with this fried capacitor?

 

[Bionz]

hey there,
does any one has an aliexpress link for the eramic capacitor 1uf 20% 10V on the cpu of the switch?

Post automatically merged: Dec 12, 2022

Yes!
They are all the same value!
ceramic capacitor 1uf 20% 10V?

do you have an other link by chance? this one doesnt work anymore

 

[superxoi]

Yes!
They are all the same value!
ceramic capacitor 1uf 20% 10V?

I'm using this one!


Cheers!

oh my god! you are a life saver mate. i just messed up in heating and the capacitor got lost and i couldn't find it (too small). i have searched for it for a whole day before i read your comment. Thank you again.

 

[gabrilapin]

Hi everyone ! I'm a noob, So ALL 32 tegra chip's caps are 1uf 20% 10V ?

If so, are the ones I bought.. the right ones ?

Here's the Aliexpress product page :
2rp8bfej (Put that after Tinyurl adress)
All i see is : 1uF 0201 Ceramic, Temp -40~ 125 Brand : DSSRQI

There's no 20% indicated so maybe they're not gonna work idk... Hope so 🫠

 

[joeling2]

Hi all, sorry to reply to an old thread.
I have a v2 Switch. I had bought an HWFLY modchip months ago, but only recently had the time to install it. I thought I was pretty average when it comes to soldering, but when it comes to working on super small components like this, I don't have much experience. Realized after the fact that it wasn't compatible with my eMMC (Toshiba) as it wouldn't work and the seller added a big warning on the item's page (wasn't there when I bought it...). So I unsoldered it and now my Switch almost always crashes 15-20 seconds after booting any game ("The software was closed because an error occurred"). Switch Online seems to work fine (can play SNES emulator without any issue), but that's the only software that seems to work. I tested the Tegra X1's exposed capacitors with a multimeter and the leftmost/bottom one has no continuity and shows 0 ohms. Not sure how I managed to mess it up as I didn't even touch it while installing the HWFLY chip, but oh well.

Wondering if anyone had this symptom with this fried capacitor?

hello, how did you solve it? I have the same situation, sp1 and sp2 I started by mistake.

 

[AaronE]

.

 

[joeling2]

hello, how did you solve it? I have the same situation, sp1 and sp2 I started by mistake.

I think the smd resistor is damaged. I will review and comment. I saw that it is 47ohm, can you confirm please?