Hardware Liquid Metal Cooling Nintendo Switch

Clydefrosch

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I doubt it's just gonna come out of the heatsink the amount you use is extremely tiny, i've never had thermal paste come from under a heatsink so i doubt this will either. Also pcs are always vertical that point is dumb
thermal paste isn't quite as... liquid as liquid metal though.

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To anyone wanting to get better thermals I'd recommend doing direct to die cooling by taking that copper sheet out, fan very rarely turns on after taking it out and putting some decent paste in. Anyone know what the material of the switches heatsink is?
to some degree, i suspect the sheet is meant to catch the heat from ram or distribute the heat of the die across that metal casing?
 

Zonark

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people liquid metal cool their PCs all the time, and a motherboard on a standard pc is vertical 100% of the time, i see no problem.
I understand this. I assume you skimmed my comment and missed the part where I said “frequent movement”. That’s the danger zone for this stuff. It’s not recommended for laptops for this reason

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I doubt it's just gonna come out of the heatsink the amount you use is extremely tiny, i've never had thermal paste come from under a heatsink so i doubt this will either. Also pcs are always vertical that point is dumb

Do you take your pc everywhere? Man everyone is skimming over the frequent movement part of my post. I don’t think you shake you pc do you? Also this problem is some believe more is better in which it isn’t haha. The vertical was mainly to point out it’ll pool after time and mixed with movement could pose hazards
 
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CallmeBerto

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Soooo fuck it. I went ahead and used LM on my switch just to see what would happen and a week later it is still going strong. I mostly play it in docked mode but I've been playing it portable and been moving it around and no issues to report.

I'm pretty sure it's heatsink is copper which is why I did it. I will take it apart next week to see if anything has happened but so far so good.
 

guily6669

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ah fuck i ordered some liquid metal specifically for my switch lel
You can totally use liquid metal, its posted on other thread on this forum...

Its not aluminum whatever they are using...

He removed the copper sheet out and used Liquid metal directly to the cooler, he noticed that the fan barely spins after the mod, so less power consumption on demanding games from the lower temps (in the winter u might not notice much difference, but I bet in the summer it will make a huge difference)...

He also re-opened the console like a week later and posted the results, the heatsink was completely fine, if it was aluminum it would only last a few minutes until it turned to metal pieces\dust.

However I still wouldnt recommend liquid metal on a portable console because it goes with you everywhere shaking from running\walking\driving whatever..., if you use buy the protective coat and use it all over around the SOC die so if something spills it won't eat\short components...

EDIT: I'm going to use Artic MX-4 on mine direct contact without the copper sheet and I will also add thermal pads on the ram chips and use a lot of thermal paste all over the copper pipe to the aluminum backplate :)... But I wish I had thermal glue so I could actually glue copper to every god damn big chip inside the board, like the one for charging and the hdmi out and whatever, but stores here dont sell them anymore for years (its a permanent bond)...

PS: FOUND THE LINK FOR YOU: https://gbatemp.net/threads/exchanging-thermal-paste.506597/page-5#post-8058013
 
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Shadow_The_Hedgehog82

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You can totally use liquid metal, its posted on other thread on this forum...

Its not aluminum whatever they are using...

He removed the copper sheet out and used Liquid metal directly to the cooler, he noticed that the fan barely spins after the mod, so less power consumption on demanding games from the lower temps (in the winter u might not notice much difference, but I bet in the summer it will make a huge difference)...

He also re-opened the console like a week later and posted the results, the heatsink was completely fine, if it was aluminum it would only last a few minutes until it turned to metal pieces\dust.

However I still wouldnt recommend liquid metal on a portable console because it goes with you everywhere shaking from running\walking\driving whatever..., if you use buy the protective coat and use it all over around the SOC die so if something spills it won't eat\short components...

EDIT: I'm going to use Artic MX-4 on mine direct contact without the copper sheet and I will also add thermal pads on the ram chips and use a lot of thermal paste all over the copper pipe to the aluminum backplate :)... But I wish I had thermal glue so I could actually glue copper to every god damn big chip inside the board, like the one for charging and the hdmi out and whatever, but stores here dont sell them anymore for years (its a permanent bond)...

PS: FOUND THE LINK FOR YOU: https://gbatemp.net/threads/exchanging-thermal-paste.506597/page-5#post-8058013
Theres no point in putting paste between the back plate it hardly dissipates heat it's better to have the heat staying in the pipe and getting blown out the fins

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I wouldn't recommend removing that copper plate, it's probably one of the best head-dissipating components in the switch. Just use a thermal paste and be done with it.
No the copper plate is terrible after removing it the fan doesn't even kick in until under load it's stupid to have two layers of paste and a layer of copper between the heatsink it makes no sense
 

guily6669

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The backplate helps slightly, the more metal the better, but its main objective is so it doesn't give you hot spots on the console, so it never gets much hot spots when touching it...

Without it I bet the part near the SOC and the Exit copper fins will be damn hot to the touch, some people might enjoy it in the winter though :), but I definitely find it kinda awkward to have a hot device in my hands, my Nvidia Shield tablet is already bloody hot if I open a game in it.

It might also help just a little against bending consoles that the screen even glues out, the more heat in a small spot, I bet the more the chances of bending the plastic and melting the glue sticker of the screen though the main problem seems to be to the front of the console and not much from the back...

Removing it or not it probably won't do much of a difference, but even if I could drop 1Cº with the backplate I would be happy and spread the heat evenly so it doesnt get hot spots when touching it.
No the copper plate is terrible after removing it the fan doesn't even kick in until under load it's stupid to have two layers of paste and a layer of copper between the heatsink it makes no sense
Totally agree, I don't even know what kind of engineer designed it... One thing is Intel on a CPU, but this is a very different level of stupidity, I never saw even a intel based laptop with dual thermal compound mixed with a small sheet for either SOC\CPU\GPU...
 
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Shadow_The_Hedgehog82

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The backplate helps slightly, the more metal the better, but its main objective is so it doesn't give you hot spots on the console, so it never gets much hot spots when touching it...

Without it I bet the part near the SOC and the Exit copper fins will be damn hot to the touch, some people might enjoy it in the winter though :), but I definitely find it kinda awkward to have a hot device in my hands, my Nvidia Shield tablet is already bloody hot if I open a game in it.

It might also help just a little against bending consoles that the screen even glues out, the more heat in a small spot, I bet the more the chances of bending the plastic and melting the glue sticker of the screen though the main problem seems to be to the front of the console and not much from the back...

Removing it or not it probably won't do much of a difference, but even if I could drop 1Cº with the backplate I would be happy and spread the heat evenly so it doesnt get hot spots when touching it.

Totally agree, I don't even know what kind of engineer designed it... One thing is Intel on a CPU, but this is a very different level of stupidity, I never saw even a intel based laptop with dual thermal compound mixed with a small sheet for either SOC\CPU\GPU...
I thought the reason could have been is that the heat sink wasn't making perfect contact with the die so they had to pad it out. But ive taken it out of about 4 switches with no issue
 
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Spadezilla

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so what is the safest course of action here (besides leaving stock, $&#% that)


definitely replace thermal paste with something higher quality like arctic, ic diamond, or arctic silver.

liquid metal is risky for marginal benefit over quality thermal paste




but remove anything? or no. something about a copper square or some shit.


the pics in OP are broken :,(
 
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Shadow_The_Hedgehog82

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so what is the safest course of action here (besides leaving stock, $&#% that)


definitely replace thermal paste with something higher quality like arctic, ic diamond, or arctic silver.

liquid metal is risky for marginal benefit over quality thermal paste




but remove anything? or no. something about a copper square or some shit.


the pics in OP are broken :,(
between the die an heatsink is two layers of paste and a coppr sheet take the copper off, clean the paste then put some decent paste in your fan will hardly run
 
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guily6669

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If you want to be 100% safe use Artic MX-4, it doesn't need cure time, it's good and not conductive of electricity and they say it lasts 8 years. I have changed MX2 or MX3 can't remember which after 5 years it wasn't that bad actually still had some moisty parts not fully dry like the crap they put on most devices.

You can also add thermal pads on the RAM, there are YouTube videos about Switch cooling mods.
 

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I would never racoomand that s mod for obvious reasons, open ur switch and apply this will nullify ur consol's warranty and and all switches are officially guaranteed for 2 years of Nintendo's assistance, if ur console is burnt for overheating, Nintendo sure will replace or repair it. then why even bother open it and might possibly screw urself trying to apply this "mod"?
Absolute B's right here .. bought a fucking launch switch and it blue screened after a year.... If that really... Was told BY NINTENDO you get like 6 months warranty it some crap.... 2 years is absolutely false.

Also opening your switch doesn't void warranty.
 

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Absolute B's right here .. bought a fucking launch switch and it blue screened after a year.... If that really... Was told BY NINTENDO you get like 6 months warranty it some crap.... 2 years is absolutely false.

Also opening your switch doesn't void warranty.
I live in Italy EU, 2 year warranty is established by law, so if Nintendo refuses to cover my warranty i just call consumer protection and fine the shit out of them.

and here we are not allowed to open the console. dunno how things work in murica.
 
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murdersbane

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I live in Italy EU, 2 year warranty is established by law, so if Nintendo refuses to cover my warranty i just call consumer protection and fine the shit out of them.

and here we are not allowed to open the console. dunno how things work in murica.
ahh ur lucky :/ my wifes switch just shit itself when she only played it for a month. (she left it on the dock for months without touching it)

we can.... if they try and deny it you can sue em.
 

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Just adding my 2 cents :
I finished my switch thermal mod an hour ago (Artic MX-4 2019 + Artic Thermal pads @ 1.5mm thickness) and first results are very good, I've immedialty noticed on Gears.Club Unlimited 2 that the game seems a little more fluid (no cpu/gpu thermal throttle) and after 1 hour of gameplay my switch is clearly less hot than before. Also, the fan is also exhausting hotter air which is another good sign.
Last thing, with less demanding games like Hollow Knight, the fan is barely spinning so I noticed the switch have extra battery time :toot::switch:
 

guily6669

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I'm thinking to buy Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, its considerably better than Artic MX4, however since its a more recent thermal paste I don't know is if it will ever last as good as the already proven Artic MX series (also since the Switch temps arent that hot the difference between Artic MX4 and Kryonaut will probably be very low, however for like a PC GPU and CPU to OC the shit out of them at huge temps they make a considerable difference)...

Anyway for people that won't ever OC their Switch just use Artic MX-4 since its way cheaper compared to Kryonaut and you can buy a big syringe and even throw a huge amount all over the copper pipe above the cooler for even more heat transfer to the backplate though it won't do much, but everything together is way better...

If you plan to OC just a bit, Kryonaut will probably be better though both will be good and if you ever plan for full OC then I guess you should go for liquid metal direct contact from cooler plate to the SOC die for maximum heat transference to the cooler and don't forget to add a protection product all around the SOC surroundings so that you don't risk damaging it.

Though I would really love is to see custom full copper coolers that would use all the space inside the switch including the whole backplate fully attached to the cooler and all copper for maximum cooling and maybe even get away with playing low visual quality games with fans OFF for an even extra bigger battery life.

If anyone has a CNC machine and ever plan to make an extreme cooler for the Switch PLZ let me know I'd buy one if the price isnt too high (someone made a good cheap custom cooler for my laptop from other forum, though was a cheap aluminum cooler to add above the original cooler, but he wasted lot of time into prototypes to use maximum space for that specific laptop model and I paid like 15€ for it, what a bargain for a custom CNC thing).
 
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Hello!
Sorry for getting topic out of his grave :)

I plan to Thermal Mod my OLED with Instinct-NX installed.
How can I cool the ram?
The modchip is glued (double-sided paper) right of the part of the metal cage where the ram is.
And I want to thermal mod because I want to overclock, and i've read that for some games, overclocking ram is better than SoC, and I don't want to fry them :)
 

Shadow_The_Hedgehog82

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Hello!
Sorry for getting topic out of his grave :)

I plan to Thermal Mod my OLED with Instinct-NX installed.
How can I cool the ram?
The modchip is glued (double-sided paper) right of the part of the metal cage where the ram is.
And I want to thermal mod because I want to overclock, and i've read that for some games, overclocking ram is better than SoC, and I don't want to fry them :)
I wouldn't recommend liquid metal ive used it on several laptops and the heatsinks soak it up after a while and it ruins the mating surface, switch has a copper shim between the processor and heatsink with 2 layers of thermal paste you can remove this and get better cooling
 

Valiran

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I wouldn't recommend liquid metal ive used it on several laptops and the heatsinks soak it up after a while and it ruins the mating surface, switch has a copper shim between the processor and heatsink with 2 layers of thermal paste you can remove this and get better cooling
Ok thanks, I will remove this piece of copper :)
Thanks !
 

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