I only know of one other shell that was in dev. on twitter and haven't heard from that person in a long time.
I would like a shot at printing one as well.
That explains why I can't find the stl. It doesn't exist. Guess I'll use the Genesis Model 2 shell. I did order the board from JLCPCB but without components. Not sure what I'd be missing without it being populated?
That explains why I can't find the stl. It doesn't exist. Guess I'll use the Genesis Model 2 shell. I did order the board from JLCPCB but without components. Not sure what I'd be missing without it being populated?
Pre-populated with the most common components.
Saves time and in some cases, money.
Of coarse, the model 2 shell will work just fine.
Its proof to me tho that the Neptune shell itself has far more appeal than what's really inside it.
At this time it is, and I could be wrong, the second most expensive way to play Sonic the Hedgehog.
But there all some cool new games for the 30 year old system.
(including one killer re-worked app called DOOM)
Pre-populated with the most common components.
Saves time and in some cases, money.
Of coarse, the model 2 shell will work just fine.
Its proof to me tho that the Neptune shell itself has far more appeal than what's really inside it.
At this time it is, and I could be wrong, the second most expensive way to play Sonic the Hedgehog.
But there all some cool new games for the 30 year old system.
(including one killer re-worked app called DOOM)
That's why I wanted to do it. For the awesome looking shell. Doom Resurrection is also pretty cool. I'm also hoping to put in an HDMI connector as well. Haven't really looked into it.
That's why I wanted to do it. For the awesome looking shell. Doom Resurrection is also pretty cool. I'm also hoping to put in an HDMI connector as well. Haven't really looked into it.
A stripped down RetroTINK x2 Scart to HDMI will fit.
There maybe other upscalers that also work.
But I dont know about quality.
If you find something cool then let me know.
Thanks!
A stripped down RetroTINK x2 Scart to HDMI will fit.
There maybe other upscalers that also work.
But I dont know about quality.
If you find something cool then let me know.
Thanks!
I got the boards as in 5 of them. No components, which I may regret. They have a nice interactive diagram that shows which components go where. I wonder if I can get most of this off the Sega Model 2 board? Found a photo of what it should look like. Like, 48X 100nf capacitors? At least they're 0805 which makes them easy to install. Only $9 off Amazon for 200x of them. I have capacitors but not 48x of them. Considering how many plastic like components are near things I'm going to hot air parts on, I'm better off putting in the chips and SMD components before electrolytic caps and the cartridge slot. Here's a crappy Model 2 diagram if I wanna switch parts to the Neptune board. Which I probably will.
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Soldering the two main Sega Genesis was pretty easy, but the SRAM chip drove me nuts. The problem was where it goes, because instructions aren't clear. I figure it goes where the board labels LHP6323 since everything is belongs to something else. I tried going by videos and photos of what other people did, and they put in a SANYO LC331632M-12, which is also a 512K-bit SRAM chip. Anyone can confirm that's where the Toshiba chip goes? I'll continue this tomorrow.
Soldering the two main Sega Genesis was pretty easy, but the SRAM chip drove me nuts. The problem was where it goes, because instructions aren't clear. I figure it goes where the board labels LHP6323 since everything is belongs to something else. I tried going by videos and photos of what other people did, and they put in a SANYO LC331632M-12, which is also a 512K-bit SRAM chip. Anyone can confirm that's where the Toshiba chip goes? I'll continue this tomorrow.
The pinouts and even description between the SANYO LC331632M-12 and Toshiba TC511632FL chips look the same to me, so it's pretty safe to say that it's where the IC goes.
Got the easy part done. All the major chips are on the Neptune board. I'm at the hard part where I need to source all the surface mount devices that need to be placed on the board. Before I go hunting on Digikey and AliExpress for parts, is there anything else I can salvage from the Genesis and 32X? Besides controller and cartridge ports. I'm definitely going to try and source as many components as I can from them, besides electrolytic capacitors. I don't trust the brand caps Sega put in these consoles.
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Did some looking around and I think I need these components for sure. I need help confirming if these are the parts I need. I have a booklet of SMD caps and resistors from my many attempts at fixing Nintendo Switch's.
I need 8x Resistor Networks & Arrays 10K OHM 5% size 0603.
EXB-V8V103GV https://mou.sr/4smahHw
1x Buffers & Line Drivers Tri-State Octal A 59 5-SN74ACT241PW A 59 A 595-SN74ACT241PW https://mou.sr/4cY7tf4
Just updating the parts list. I don't want to order again and pay for shipping twice. I did find four 10k resistor arrays on the 32X board and they seem to fit just fine. I thought I found six but the two I found near the cartridge slot are large and have more connections. I also found three NPN SOT-23-3 transistors labeled L5, which I think may work just fine in the Neptune board? Would like help with this one because I'm no electronics expert. I can melt stuff off a circuit board and melt stuff on, and that's it.
I need help identifying a part I need. D801 says I need a 2A RECT D_SOD-128. I'm assuming it needs to be a 2 amp rectifier size SOD-128, but is it a diode rectifier and if so which way does it get installed?
Getting close but I'm stuck again. What do I put where it says VA1? I do have a VA1 32X but I don't know if I should put a 47pF, 100pF, or leave it unused?
Is there a board viewer for the Cosam neptune board? I'm not getting 5V or 3.3V and I can't figure out why? The buck converter is putting out 1v or 0.8V depending on where I test it.
I completed the board and it doesn't output anything. TV doesn't even pick up a signal. There are components I missed because I have no idea what if any I put there. They are marked with an asterisk. Anyone have a clue what goes there?
**EDIT**
A person that goes by the name RGBeter from Reddit has given me the info. This board isn't as well documented as it should be. Here's what is needed for anyone doing this. Also, this section deals with composite video output, which explain why I see nothing when I turn on the board.
Been a while but I had my COSAM Neptune board built a while ago. Been busy instead trying to model the shell to 3D print. I've gotten it looking like a Neptune but not working like a Neptune yet. This maybe a shot in the dark but I don't know how to fix a problem I have where I can't extrude certain surfaces. I need to be able to do this before I cut it in half and hollow it out to make the internal parts. I asked some people on Reddit Fusion360 and nobody knows. I uploaded the .f3d file if someone who knows Fusion 360 and can tell me what I'm doing wrong? Particularly I want to extrude the area around the cartridge slot downward to cut in, so it looks like a grove.
I eventually figured out a solution. I simply copied the groove and then drew lines to it. Much easier solution. I was also able to get the grooves all over the housing just be using extrudes line feature. I'm surprised how well that works. Some of the model didn't play nice with it until the line was in the same plane, which is why it's a good idea to fix it now before I go further.
I eventually figured out a solution. I simply copied the groove and then drew lines to it. Much easier solution. I was also able to get the grooves all over the housing just be using extrudes line feature. I'm surprised how well that works. Some of the model didn't play nice with it until the line was in the same plane, which is why it's a good idea to fix it now before I go further.
First of all, congrats on getting your COSAM board working. (Something, that I dont have.)
If there were a MD2 model available then it could be used to create the exact negative space needed.
Otherwise, make your own by shrinking a copy your current model and
then use it to hollow out the inside space to the thickness of the walls you want.
Cut it in half (make a shell out of it)
Use some capilers and make measurements of the mounting surface parts of a real MD2 bottom and top. (for the flaps)
Add those mounting measements back to your hollowed out model.
Paper, pencil and scissors can help by providing measured parts made from paper.
The buttons and led shield are something else.
First of all, congrats on getting your COSAM board working. (Something, that I dont have.)
If there were a MD2 model available then it could be used to create the exact negative space needed.
Otherwise, make your own by shrinking a copy your current model and
then use it to hollow out the inside space to the thickness of the walls you want.
Cut it in half (make a shell out of it)
Use some capilers and make measurements of the mounting surface parts of a real MD2 bottom and top. (for the flaps)
Add those mounting measements back to your hollowed out model.
Paper, pencil and scissors can help by providing measured parts made from paper.
The buttons and led shield are something else.
I've seen a model of the MD2 shell but not internally. Even if they did, I wouldn't know how to incorporate their design into mine? Been using calipers to measure the cartridge slot of my 32X as well as the circuit board. Of course, a lot of measurements from the MD2 shell. Essentially, my Neptune shell is an artistic representation of what I think a Neptune shell looks like, and the bottom and insides will be a recreation of the MD2 shell.
One trick I did do is use KiCad to export the COSAM circuit board as an stl and use that to make sure I have an accurate representation of the board. I used KiCad to figure out all my Neptune's problems because it didn't work at first. I also noticed that some pictures of the Neptune shell have two screws that hold it on, instead of it being clipped in. The two screws idea is easier to model.
Getting closer. Just gotta do some small things here and there, and some cosmetic additions. The not fun part will be to test print this to see how off my measurements are. You know the saying, just cause it fits in cad doesn't mean it'll fit.
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